daeron Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 Okay, I have been thinking about doing this for a long LONG time now, and haven't been able to find a problem with it. Can I re-wire my headlights so that either A> the low beams stay on while the high beams are on, or.. B> I have an overriding switch that will turn the low beams on with the switch in "hi beam" position? Basically, I want to be able to achieve a state with my headlights thats not high beam only or low beam only, kinda like when the switch is in between the two. I know all about the relays and wiring involved, I have mocked it up in my mind a dozen times.. but I have always been afraid that maybe the circuit would not handle that much load, or that the lamps themselves would not cope well with all that heat (hence the use of an auxiliary over-riding switch..) I know that I might want to ... (as in, these are the questions I have about this "conversion") ... bypass the current switching capacities of the steering column headlight switch and use it to power a relay or two instead? .. re wire the headlight assemblies? .. find some way to help dissipate the excess heat in the headlamp assembly? What are YOUR thoughts on this matter? My low beams are great, my high beams are great.. The headlights are VERY well aligned (maybe just a TINY bit too high) BUT the combination of the two is really the best. I don't see any NEED for fog lights, if I can safely get both filaments to go on at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 I know in the EA81 switch all you need to do is break a piece of plastic off and it won't turn the low beam off.. This may be the same with the EA82's as well... I'm not sure.. If you want more light, I suggest putting in a whole to relay circuit like I did.. Cos the volts at the lights are low because of all the power going thru the low high switch. I'll get you a diagram I drew of how I wired my EA81 quad lights.. Ok, heres the original wiring plus new wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 The only problem I see is since you have a composite headlights, the bulbs will get hotter then normal which will cause them to burn out faster, if not blow up from the excess heat. Yes, they get hot while on but they're not meant to have that much current going through them for extended periods of time, which is why they now have H4 upgrades and such. Just a thought to throw into the pot:-p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted June 25, 2007 Author Share Posted June 25, 2007 The only problem I see is since you have a composite headlights, the bulbs will get hotter then normal which will cause them to burn out faster, if not blow up from the excess heat. Yes, they get hot while on but they're not meant to have that much current going through them for extended periods of time, which is why they now have H4 upgrades and such. Just a thought to throw into the pot:-p Thats kinda what I am looking for.. My landlord and I, after each of our recent hurricanes, have survived using his buick as a source of 12VDC and we rig up tail lights, amber turn bulbs, headlight bulbs, and radiator and PC fans everywhere... When we used the headlamps (same kind of bulb) we typically wired in each filament, so we could use either one, or both.. neither filament is actually brighter than the other. I figured if the bulb could take the heat outside the lens, it might survive inside... Looks like, if anything, its just gonna be an auxiliary switch... Sorry Phiz, I shoulda made it clear that I was talking about composite, "loyale-style" headlamps. Youre wiring schematics are of incredible assistance nevertheless.. they are pretty well vehicle-independent, universal headlight wiring diagrams. Anyhow, any experiences anyone has had along these lines would be appreciated.. IF I ever get around to this, chances are it will be a piggyback aux switch at first to try the idea, and see if the bulbs burn out quicker. It just seems so EASY.. I dont need other bulbs, I dont need driving lights, I dont need HID projector headlights.. I am more than satisfied with the light put out by my stock headlamps... when BOTH filaments are illuminated, the spread is incredible. Low beams are great as they are.. but the spread illuminated by the "high beams" is better if they are "filled out" with the low beam filament on, too. the bottom zone just goes too dark for my tastes. I do alot of late night driving to and from my two friend's houses within the confines of my own neighborhood.. and there are ALOT of unfenced animals around. I like to be able to see any possibility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 I now have non-sealed beam headlights. So I am using in my inner (highbeam only) lights H1's and in my outer (high and low) H4's.. With the wiring fixed they are like running two extra 100w spotties, then add the spotties it's amazing. I am also now running 100w H1's and I just got some Narva Plus 50 H4's.. Should be good now. I have to adjust my headlights tonight. My headlights were getting 10.5volts out of my 12.8volt battery before the wiring change. Now there is less then 0.2volts lost. I was planning setting up a EA82 H4 headlight with both filaments running to see how long it would last just for fun. They do make 110/70 watt H4's as well as 90/70 and 60/55 (standard.) But in Aus at least only the 60/55's are street legal. I see what you are after, when I used to put my lights on highbeam they would have lowbeam on for a tick then it would go out and it did give a good wider close view. We use solar power in our house. And for over 7 years only had 12v. We still don't use a fridge, mircowave or any of that stuff. But we did have a 12v TV. Now we only use 12v for our lighting. I'll stop writing more paragraphs now..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 Dae: I'ts always fun to play around with these kind of circuits. But I would recommend you fab it up on the bench first. As mentioned above, you run the risk of damaging wiring & components due to excessive heat. If you don't have a stash of extra parts, I would go to the JY and gather together everything you need to build a prototype. I'm talking the column switch assembly, relays, connectors, bulb sockets etc. Don't forget an inline fuse of the correct value. Then run your design off a power supply to see how it holds up over various conditions. When you get your prototype perfected, transfer the design over to your car. This may sound like overkill, but it sure beats trying to track down intermittant problems in your car, as a result of overloading the circuit. good luck, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted June 26, 2007 Author Share Posted June 26, 2007 Dae: I'ts always fun to play around with these kind of circuits. But I would recommend you fab it up on the bench first. As mentioned above, you run the risk of damaging wiring & components due to excessive heat. If you don't have a stash of extra parts, I would go to the JY and gather together everything you need to build a prototype. I'm talking the column switch assembly, relays, connectors, bulb sockets etc. Don't forget an inline fuse of the correct value. Then run your design off a power supply to see how it holds up over various conditions. When you get your prototype perfected, transfer the design over to your car. This may sound like overkill, but it sure beats trying to track down intermittant problems in your car, as a result of overloading the circuit. good luck, John I appreciate the advice; I had planned from the outset to totally eliminate any current load being put on the combination switch via an additional relay (or two) Quite frankly, I have no "bench" to build it on first. Space is something of a premium at my house, and I don't get time to go up to my family's communal "shop" for this type of stuff as often as I would like.. SO chances are my experimenting will be done on the car; I think I will just try it out by wiring in an additional switch that will cut the low beams on independently of the stick.. that way, my high beams still function normally (high beam only) but I can over ride it. I won't fry anything with the setup I have in mind; I am liable to brun out bulbs though. I think thats my chief concern at this point. While I am at it (and I plan on going back and asking this question in my other electric mod thread, as well) does ANYone know of a good place online to help teach yourself how to read wiring schematics??!?? I had learned in high school, but then I went about three years without looking at one and when time came for me to actually NEED the skill, it was largely evaporated.. (I am normally more retentive than that ) I can KINDA read them... but I am vague on what several symbols mean, exactly.. No specific QUESTIONS, I just want a primer of some sort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 Here is a link to my all-time electronics book (still available thru Amazon) http://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Projects-Musicians-Craig-Anderton/dp/0825695023 It's not automotive-specific, but covers basic circuits very well. If you play guitar, the project designs will be a bonus. You can apply the practical knowledge (and theory) in this book to a variety of automotive applications. Well worth the $8.00 price for a used copy. Good luck, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 Here is a link to a book you may want to look into getting: http://www.amazon.com/Beginners-Reading-Schematics-Robert-Traister/dp/0830676325/ref=pd_sim_b_5/103-7678949-9696629 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate007 Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 look here, this will teach you how to read shematics. here is a list of commonly used components with symbol and discription. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 A> the low beams stay on while the high beams are on, or.. B> I have an overriding switch that will turn the low beams on with the switch in "hi beam" position? [snip] if I can safely get both filaments to go on at the same time. Along time ago in a galaxy far far away.... I had a setup like that in my 76 & 78 subies. I put 4 of the aftermarket H4 hi / lo lamps in and a bunch of relays & switches. The original headlight controls and wiring only carried power to the relay panel. I could have almost any combination of hi & lo beam filaments on with the selector switches. The hi / lo lever still chose which of the 2 presets were on. The biggest unknown in your case, if you wire it as I did, would be the plastic parts of the stock lamp and bulb. The 2 filaments on together didn't seem to bother the H4s, so I wouldn't be too worried about that. Don't try to run both filaments at the same time through the existing wiring without extensive traceing to be sure nothing will be overloaded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stickedy Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Arent't low beam and beam are engaged when using the headlamp flasher? Or don't you have that headlamp flasher in the US? Anyway, Subaru strongly advices not to use the headlamp flasher for longer than three seconds to avoid damages. I don't know if this is related to the bulbs ot to the electric wiring (it's not mentioned). I usually use the headlamp flasher in the night when driving in my home town to look for speed traps with the extra light and nothing happens to my EA82 till now, but I few months ago, I burned one fuse of my mother's Justy J10 when doing this. So, I guess it's somewhat critical for the electric system. You just have to thinks about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted June 28, 2007 Author Share Posted June 28, 2007 Arent't low beam and beam are engaged when using the headlamp flasher? Or don't you have that headlamp flasher in the US? Anyway, Subaru strongly advices not to use the headlamp flasher for longer than three seconds to avoid damages. I don't know if this is related to the bulbs ot to the electric wiring (it's not mentioned). I usually use the headlamp flasher in the night when driving in my home town to look for speed traps with the extra light and nothing happens to my EA82 till now, but I few months ago, I burned one fuse of my mother's Justy J10 when doing this. So, I guess it's somewhat critical for the electric system. You just have to thinks about that. Our cars have the high beam flasher (at least mine does, where you pull the stick towards you and it flicks the high beams on to indicate passing) but only the high beam filament is activated.. there is a moment, in between positions, where both are on.. the same goes for the other direction, turning the high beams on with a forwards motion. But once either position is fully "engaged" so to speak, its one filament only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stickedy Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 I'm a bit confused about this and will check it soemtimes.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted June 30, 2007 Author Share Posted June 30, 2007 I'm a bit confused about this and will check it soemtimes.... There IS a distinct possibility that the EDM and the American market vehicles were different.. but I know that pulling my high beam switch towards me does essentially the same thing as pushing it forwards; the only difference is that it does not have a position to click into high beams when pulling towards me. The low beams and high beams are both briefly illuminated simultaneously, and then the low beam cuts off. was it something else that confused you? i have strange ideas sometimes, so if something needs more explaining just ask and I will answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CzarMohab Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 Daeron, you've helped me out of a few things, so hopefully this is helpful to you. The bulbs for our headlights are the same that were (hehe) in the 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I borrowed from my brother's ex wife, and surprisingly the same as the ones in my now long dead 02 Ford Taurus. Both of those vehicles had similar high/low switches to ours, but when you clicked the stick for high on, then off but held it on, both filaments would stay on. I would drive like this for as long as possible at night. Now, I did notice that the lows kick off when the highs kick on on our car; and being creative, I will try to just hold the stick so that both are on. Harder to do on the 'ru, but it should work, and since its darker here (E. Wash vice W. Wash where I kinda used to live) and alot less traffic durring the hours I drive, I can probably get away with it for a good long haul. Sure, *might* run the life out of the filaments, but I haven't ever noticed on the other two. I'll run this test for you and get back to you, but it will be about 4-5 hours before I can see. As to the Jeep, well, I needed new lights. And even with all its troubles, I'd rather have the 'ru. Perhaps if you get the thing wired up and tested and all that, you could post the results for us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted June 30, 2007 Author Share Posted June 30, 2007 Perhaps if you get the thing wired up and tested and all that, you could post the results for us? Oh, I shall. Don't hold your breath, though... this thread AND my power window thread are both questions I have been kicking around for months.. and I haven't posted yet because I have been (am still am) nowehere near actually DOING any of this. Thread shall be resurrected once something is done about it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CzarMohab Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 Well through no fault of my own, I stumbled upon the answer. Yes, Yes you can do it. Dumb car... I posted someplace that the high beams like to turn on more or less on their own. Hadn't noticed before, but the lows stay on too. So at least for me to do what you are proposing, my steering column just needs some mechanical agitation (good hit) to jar the switch and both go on. Its only 15 miles from work to where i'm staying, 10 in the darkest dark of all dark, and very little traffic. So, for at least 10 miles, you can have both on no problems. Hope this helped some, and sorry for the delay on the testing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 2, 2007 Author Share Posted July 2, 2007 *shrugs* no apology needed, I have alot of time logged with both on, just not extended periods. I am sure that eventually, it will shorten bulb life somewhat.. but since spare bulbs can be had for the effort of pocketing one or two every JY trip, a bulb burnout is not a major problem.. shake your heads if you must, but i consider my admission price to cover for things like bulbs and relays. Do you pay for bolts and washers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CzarMohab Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 Are you saying you have to pay to tour your jy? I'm very sorry. And I hope with the upcoming move, I still won't have to. I just tell them I want to go look at the 'ru's. What I likes I takes off and pays for... shake your heads if you must, but i consider my admission price to cover for things like bulbs and relays. Do you pay for bolts and washers? ...except the bolts and washers... and now bulbs. Never thought of that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 3, 2007 Author Share Posted July 3, 2007 Are you saying you have to pay to tour your jy? I'm very sorry. And I hope with the upcoming move, I still won't have to. I just tell them I want to go look at the 'ru's. What I likes I takes off and pays for... ...except the bolts and washers... and now bulbs. Never thought of that one. fuses, fusible links... in dire times i have fallen far down the slippery slope (the fuel pump for the SPFI is tantalizingly small) My junkyards used to be reasonable, but times have changed. It started out, that the white guys running the places just started jacking prices up out of seeming racism because they noticed that their clientele was changing color on them.. then there was a brief transition period while real estate values tripled down here, then all of a sudden the mexicans were running the junkyards, and just charging uniformly blanket charges.. sometimes a good thing, sometimes a bad thing, I kinda liked the occasional free tool; now these guys take those tools and actually try to sell them. And all to pay for the new electric fence they put up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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