rusty1 Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Engine on my '00 Forester is toast after 145k, probably due to a blown head gasket not being replaced leading to bearing failure. Options: Reman Engine: $5,000 plus install. Short block: $1,900 plus install assuming heads can be re-used. Add on timing belt, gears water pump - guessing over $3,000. Used engine - so far best deal I've found is $1,900 f.o.b.junk yard - shop estimates $700-$900 labor and recommends new head gaskets and timing belt etc. Sell the car: One salvage yard offered $700. Mechanic who works on Subarus says up to $1,400 if body in good condition, which it is. Anything else I should consider? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2X2KOB Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Check http://www.car-part.com A search shows many used engines available starting at $600. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon38iowa Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Engine on my '00 Forester is toast after 145k, probably due to a blown head gasket not being replaced leading to bearing failure. I doubt it would it have bearing failure, as the '00 had External head gasket leaks. What is the condition of the rest of the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 if you're going into the thousands mark, then just get a CCR engine. highly touted among the Subaru crowd. if i were looking at costs far beyond $1,000 i would just get one of their new engines. comes with a 3 year 36,000 miles warranty and top notch service...those numbers are from memory, but the service is from experience. pretty sure they'll beat that $5,000 remanned price by a long shot and you'll get much better quality and service from them. they know Subaru's and they are active on this board, highly respected. if you want the car another 5 years or more, then this is your best bet in my oppinion and you've got a car that can do that. if the body is in good shape and rust isn't getting bad this would be a great option as the vehicle is capable of many more miles. if it's a manual trans then definitely as they rarely fail. if it's an auto trans and the trans is in good shape then you should be fine as well. have the ATF flushed and replace the spin on, external oil filter. i would want the new headgaskets if i were installing a used block. if you can find any locally, learn how to tell if it has the new updated headgaskets. you could look and see if they have been replaced visually. you could easily come across one with the new headgasket design already in them and use that without replacing the headgasket. post in the parts wanted section here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Dont forget to have the radiator cleaned or replaced. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron917 Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 I second the suggestion for a rebuilt engine from CCR. Mine was much less than $5000, but I don't know what they would charge for your engine. I installed it myself, but having it done by shop should be 10 hours of labor. The CCR engines are complete, nothing extra to buy except gaskets (they sell gasket kits at a good price) to swap over your intake, water pipe, oil filler, etc. I wouldn't trust a used engine. There are too many out there that were overheated due to headgasket problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 http://www.ccrengines.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty1 Posted June 29, 2007 Author Share Posted June 29, 2007 Thanks for the replies! I did browse to car-part.com and found a shop(Cahills) nearby (zip 12180) with an engine, with new head gaskets, timing gear etc. for $1,600. I called and they offered to install it as well for $2,100 total. In my price range. I haven't priced a reman from ccrengines, but between the freight and the installation, I think it might be prohibitive. The only other issues the car has are the need for rear bearings(replaced once at 70k), here we are at 140k and a torn up CV boot - thinking a new axle here. Otherwise the car has very little body rust, new brakes and tires. And flushing/replacing the radiator has been recommended by any of the people I've talked to. Decisions, decisions - thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 Shipping both ways is probably around 250 or so, freight is pretty reasonable these days. Call for an exact quote. CCR closes at 3 Mtn Time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 I recommend a CCR engine also. Having a 3 year warranty is worth a lot in my book. I wouldn't consider putting in a used engine and not having some sort of warranty with it, even if it is lower cost. With a CCR engine you are basically getting a new engine and you saw what they cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 For your torn cv boot: http://www.ccrengines.com/mwe/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty1 Posted July 2, 2007 Author Share Posted July 2, 2007 Could someone recommend a good manual for (or link to) engine removal procedure on this car. I don't know that I couldn't do it myself . TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 plug around this site or get an FSM is your best bet. haynes manual may do, but i've never used one. they're actually fairly easy to remove as far as engines go. unbolt the a/c compressor and it will swing away, off the engine, just enough to remove the engine without every removing any of the lines or loosing your charge. here's a basic run down from memory: not necessary but it's a good idea to remove your radiator to protect it and for extra room. remove coolant hoses (2 to radiator, 2 to heater core), throttle cables, fuel lines, unplug the 3 wiring connectors on the passengers side, disconnect the O2 sensor, remove power steering lines, remove the one or two vaccuum lines going to the solenoid on the passenger side strut tower, remove power/battery/alternator wires. remove all the engine to trans mounting bolts. unbolt the exhaust headers. remove the two engine mount nuts from underneath the vehicle. that's about it, it's really straight forward actually. just keep track of all the bolts and parts, but otherwise there's nothing at all tricky about it. if it's an automatic - take note of reinstalling the torque converter. it's very hard to see and easy to miss, but if you don't seat it that last 1/8", you will ruin the trans when you reinstall the engine. it doesn't seat easily, the teeth need to line up to fully seat. make absolutely certain it's seated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron917 Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 if it's an automatic - take note of reinstalling the torque converter. it's very hard to see and easy to miss, but if you don't seat it that last 1/8", you will ruin the trans when you reinstall the engine. it doesn't seat easily, the teeth need to line up to fully seat. make absolutely certain it's seated. The FSM will show you how to measure to ensure that the torque converter is fully seated (it's in the tranny section). That info may not be in Haynes. I always buy the FSM for every car I own, and it always pays for itself. Between the FSM and advice from this forum, I had no trouble with my engine swap. My torque converter didn't move when I pulled the engine out, so I was lucky. Apparently, the flex plate and TC sometimes stick together. After removing the TC bolts, I pushed/pried the TC away from the flex plate to make sure they were separated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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