1992 Loyale Questions

[faithless88]

I currentley have a '92 Loyale wagon. What I'm wondering about 1) how common is it to a quart of oil every week and a half to 2 weeks 2) Also is there a way I can keep the R12 coolant in the a/c instead of changing it to the R134 3)If anyone knows where to get either a service manual and or a repair manual 4) What are some simple things I can do to try and get to the 100hp mark instead of the 90 or less I got 5) How close are the 93 Loyales to the 92 ones (I might be able to get a 93 wagon like mine just blue) 6) What is the easyest way to see why the CEL is on, since I have gotten it mine has been on the mechanic I got it from who I trust have known him for over a decade and is a family friend said it was a short somewhere in the system 7) Also what kinda things can I do to such as lights sound and such things.

[CzarMohab]

I'll help where I can.

 

1.) *Probably* not good. Probably very not good. Could be simple fix (tighten drain plug) or something more complex. Does it smoke (blue exhaust)? Is there a puddle and/or associated drip line from a potential leak? Finding the oil leak should find you the appropriate cure.

2.) Why, oh why, would you want to keep the R-12? Aside from the fact that you may not have the $ to convert, there really isn't any good reason to keep it. R-134/134a are now more common and environmentally friendlier. The US Navy still uses R-12 on some (albeit very few) platforms, and even they are converting to 134a.*IF* your AC is out, or you are low on freon, then go get the upgrade, otherwise, I'd say hold out until you can afford to do so.

3.) Ebay. Autoparts store (autozone, napa). Library. Swap-meet. Amazon.com. Poke around through the forum, lots of goodies here too.

4.) Good question. For starters, tune-up, plugs, air filter, air system cleaning, fuel filter, fuel system cleaning, oil & filter, etc... Others will fill you in more on this one. But really, I don't think that there really is all that much you can do that is *simple*. Engine swap to a turbo model, or add a turbo, or swap to a more HP output engine, should net you some extra HPs. I'm pretty sure, though, that that falls outside of *simple* just a bit.

5.) Not 100% sure, so I won't answer this one.

6.) Same as #5. I've never dealt with a 'ru CEL.

7.) Autoparts stores, et al, should offer some interesting add ons. Also, try Ebay, etc, and look around the pics section to see what others have done for some lighting inspiration. As for sounds, well, again, look around autoparts stores, ebay, wherever. Even junkyards if you are happy with a stock radio.

 

One last thing, not 100% sure, but I think even a 92 loyale might fit under "Newer Gen".

[faithless88]

In response to CzarMohab:

 

1) I should be getting a full gasket set for free, I have tried to trace the oil leak but the whole under side is shiny black of oil. I do have a leak form for any amount of it sitting when not running, has a tendency to leak more when the is a slight lean to the left as in a 1in drop on the left side will cause the oil spot to be about twice the size.

 

2) I like the R12 better because it gets much colder and faster, but I think I have to change to the R134 because it's starting to have problems.

 

3) Still gonna keep looking.

 

4) I would rather keep it NA instead of turboed, was thinking about looking into a larger throttle body namely webber and also opening the exhaust a bit. And some other common sense things to do.

 

5) In the same boat.

 

6) Autozone says they do CEL so might do that.

 

7) I have been looking but keep finding either crap or things that require major modding to either body or some other part.

 

Also I checked the descerption on this and it says any car done before 1990 and Loyales. So with this off to sleep for me.

[86BRATMAN]

3)Haynes and Chiltons are decent for simple stuff, for critical information go with a Factory Service Manual

 

4) Open up the exhaust and intake flow, and a good complete tune up...

Weber is not a throttle body... Its a carburator, do not under any circumstances get rid of your fuel injected setup...

 

5) They are the exact same...

 

6) Autozone will not be able to read your codes... However you can, see here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918

[daeron]

1. Oil leaking. Subarus leak oil. I suggest you find some hardcore method of cleaning off your engine; either soak it in concentrated degreaser, then spray it down (preferably with hot water) scrub it, do something to clean the mess.. THEN you can see where the oil leak begins. When your whole engine is an oil slick, its impossible.

 

2. r12-- All you would need to do is find some R12 and the fittings to fill er up. Any mechanic that you know personally ought to still have his R12 fittings for his manifold; but all you need is the can thingy. However, It is not always as easy as that.. plus R-12 is getting EXPENSIVE. simpler to do the swapover. As for the ecology bit; I am Frank Q. Treehugger, but all the R-12 ever manufactured already exists.. so somehow, sooner or later, its pretty well gonna end up there.. may as well use it as refrigerant while we have it handy because there is nothing else we can do with it.

 

MUCH simpler and cheaper to just convert, though.. thats why most of us have done it. They kinda wanted it that way

 

3. book-- http://ch601.org/engines.htm

 

Find the Subaru EA82 links, and download them. That is two significant fragments of an 89 GL Factory Service Manual.. your new best friend. The chiltons and haynes books for these cars both suck, and I normally LOVE haynes books...

 

4. power-- heh, give up? seriously, some people find minimal gains by adding holes to their air box to help the filter breathe a little better.. the filter itself is the same cartridge used on a first generation 300ZX. if that air filter flows enough for a 180- horsepower 3.0 liter V6, it flows enough for the soob. However, adding some holes in the airbox to allow air in easier, SUPPOSEDLY makes a difference... albeit a dubious one. Really, there isnt much to be done. EJ swap, is simple enough for 2.2 liters giving you 135HP, if you are that motivated.

 

Oh yes, and as was mentioned, a weber is a brand of carburetor, and while it IS a typical subaru performance upgrade... it is "typical" to the subarus that came standard with a crummy hitachi carburetor that just quite frankly couldn't venturi itself out of a pitot tube (excuse me, nerd joke) The SPFI system stock on your car is superior to the weber carburetor in every way. Just a LITTLE superior, but in so many ways it is SOO not worth it to step back unless your vehicle's FI system is majorly foobared, and you have the carb new in your hand already, AND you are the type of person who could rebuild this carb in their sleep because they have had to do it before.

 

5. loyale--virtually identical, as mentioned above. for all practical purposes, the exact same. might have different radio knobs or something, heh.

 

6. cel- The USRM link given above, OR its also outlined in the FSM i linked you to.

 

7. lights, etc- help using and understanding relays for adding light circuits can be found here. You might want to upgrade the alternator and charging wire; late 80s Nissan Maximas and XT6s both have 90 amp units that bolt right in.. but require slight pulley modifications to run properly. Stock alt is 60 amp. more lights require more power.. although you need to get serious about your lighting (or have seriously problematic wiring) to REALLY need the 90 amp, its a good upgrade.

 

If you are not talking about fog/driving lights, search for "dash light" or something vague along those lines, and scan the search results quickly for mention of LEDs in instrument consoles, and other of that type lighting dealie.

 

Aftermarket stereos... a 92 loyale should take a DIN sized stereo OK, shouldnt it??

 

And that should cover all of it.

[thealleyboy]

1) The suggestion about cleaning your engine bay is a good one, and will help you identify any active leaks. I would also recommend removing the timing belt covers so you can monitor the seals and oil pump for leaks (among other things). However, you shouldn't assume that leaking gaskets are the sole cause of oil assumption. It could be burning some too, or maybe a combination of leaks and burning. Again, a clean engine is always the best starting point when tracking down oil consumption problems.

2) It's true that r12 is "colder" as a refridgerant. If you can find some cheap cans at a garage sale, I'd say go for it. But r12 is getting scarce, and paying the going price for an r12 recharge at a professional shop is not worth it. The truth is, a properly evacuated Subaru A/C system runs plenty cold with r134, so you won't miss r12 at all. If you are dead set on r12, there was a refridgerent that was a fully compatible "substitute" for r12. Not sure if it's still avalable though...

3) There are no "perfect" books, and that includes FSM's. What I would do is buy a Haynes book and a large loose-leaf binder. You can seperate the pages of the Haynes and lay out your binder to follow the same chapter format. Then you can add notes from other sources to round out the basic info from the Haynes.

4) getting over the HP hump isn't easy on these cars. No silver bullit unfortunately. I would first focus on getting the OEM setup running as best you can, and gradually upgrade in conjunction with your maitenance

5) Loyales between 1990-94 are esentially the same. The only major differences I've seen are in the dealer add-on items (which "upgraded" the basic car)

6) Sorry, not familiar with this system

7) Aftermarket sound isn't too hard, but be prepared to run dedicated ground wires from the dash to rear speaks. Fabricating a custom plug-in connector to tie into the wiring harness is not worth it IMO. Just hack into the wires at the OEM connector. The dash adapter plate is the most critical piece.

good luck, John

[faithless88]

Found out that I'm gonna be getting a 93 Loyale wagon like mine but in much better shape and tons of extra parts for them. So now I will use one as a daily driver and the other will get an ej20 or higer swap in due time.

[faithless88]

I just checked the CEL and it is a code 35 which is a Purge Control Solenoid or circuit if I'm right. I know about the upgrade for it but I don't have time to go to a junkyard and search for one so would like auto zone or checkers have it or if someone has an extra one I can get. Also how do you get the caliper off I can get the bottom but not the top, I need to replace the boot on the axle since it tore itself.

[daeron]

there are two solenoid "fixes," neither of which is technically an upgrade. One option is to go to radio shack and buy a couple of resistors, of a certain value, and unplug your solenoid and replace it with these resistors.. they fool the computer into thinking the solenoid is functioning perfectly, thus, no CEL.

 

The other fix is to go to a junkyard and snag a similar solenoid off of a similar era japanese car.. apparently you can find substitutes in darn near anything.. but the whole point of doing that is to avoid the absurd cost of the new part for your subaru in a parts store.

[faithless88]

How would I do it with the resiastors. I'm kinda illeterate in that area.

[daeron]

search around.. I dont know the particulars, myself, but I DO know it was covered in a thread that recently came up to the top..

[86BRATMAN]

General Disorder had a thread titled something to the effect of Purge Soleniod Insanity dealing with this issue a little bit ago

[Gloyale]

Also how do you get the caliper off I can get the bottom but not the top, I need to replace the boot on the axle since it tore itself.

 

To remove the caliper for the purpose of just changing pads, first unbolt the bottom slider bolt(14mm). Pivot the caliper off of the pads anbd then just slide the top back off of the slider. Hang it out of the way. this should be all that's needed for an axle removal(and some will say it doesn't have to come off at all)

 

To remove the bracket to remove/repalce rotor or hub, you need to unbolt 2 17mm bolts that hold the bracket to the backing plate.

[mikeshoup]

Also how do you get the caliper off I can get the bottom but not the top, I need to replace the boot on the axle since it tore itself.

Don't need to in order to remove an axle. Just unbolt the control arm at the inboard side and unbolt the swaybar. Then I always do this with the tire on, but I put my foot at the bottom of the tire (while I'm laying under the car) and push the bottom of it out and the axle pops off the transmission. Then just push it out of the hub, voila!