misledxcracker Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 Ive been having idle issues again... If I'm stuck at a light and I have to sit there, the car will idle really low after sitting for a second in Drive with brake applied, so bad the volt gauge drops some. The longer you have to sit, the more it drops, until it gets to about 300 RPM, then it'll just sit there until you can drive on. Car doesnt stall, as a matter of fact I've never had the car stall on me once. :cool: Then just today, the car's starting to idle high in Park, like 1500 RPM... drat. Checked passenger side heads again: They're burnt AGAIN after like 500 miles. Here's a question. Say my cam timing is off, or my T-belts are loose. Can I still get a 20 degree reading on the flywheel, even if the cam timing is off? Can that result in one head's burning plugs? Let's see. I"ve cleaned and tested the IAC. I've tested and replaced the TPS. CTS is practically brand spanking new, though I still tested it. I put the correct metric vacuum hoses on, and everything's nice and leak-free. No, my Subaru F.I. intake boot thingie's not missing. I've Seafoamed it twice through gas and intake. I replaced the vacuum modulator on the transmission. I've changed plugs and wires. I've changed the fuel filter, air filter, and PCV valve. What gives? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 Checked passenger side heads again: They're burnt AGAIN after like 500 miles. Here's a question. Say my cam timing is off, or my T-belts are loose. Can I still get a 20 degree reading on the flywheel, even if the cam timing is off? Can that result in one head's burning plugs? Belt could be off a tooth or 2 off and you could still set the ignition timing to proper 20 degrees on the flywheel. The spark would happen at the correct time(relative to the piston), but the valves would be off time resulting in an incorrect mixture in the cylinder as it trys to burn, and or low compression. I don't know if this is you're problem, but it could be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 Belt could be off a tooth or 2 off and you could still set the ignition timing to proper 20 degrees on the flywheel. The spark would happen at the correct time(relative to the piston), but the valves would be off time resulting in an incorrect mixture in the cylinder as it trys to burn, and or low compression. I don't know if this is you're problem, but it could be. That would only be true if the driver's side belt is still dead on. Which it seeams to be from it only burning pass side plugs. I would say that this is your best bet to fixing the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 That would only be true if the driver's side belt is still dead on. Which it seeams to be from it only burning pass side plugs. I would say that this is your best bet to fixing the problem. No the drivers side belt could be off by even several teeth, and stil you could adjust the timing so that spark happened at TDC for the Piston. BUT... the valves would be opening either too early or too late. relationship of spark to cam angle is not completely fixed, if you were way off then you would be too far out of the distys range of adjustment, but one tooth could still be adjusted to spark at the right time, but the cam would be at the wrong time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misledxcracker Posted July 5, 2007 Author Share Posted July 5, 2007 Thanks! I had a feeling it has to do with the timing belt; they're the only thing I havent replaced. Plus, the pass. side timing belt had a lot of slack, it was pretty loose. I'll take off the crank, take off the rest of the outer timing covers, and have a look at them this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Thanks! I had a feeling it has to do with the timing belt; they're the only thing I havent replaced. Plus, the pass. side timing belt had a lot of slack, it was pretty loose. I'll take off the crank, take off the rest of the outer timing covers, and have a look at them this weekend. Your car is almost at 100K and its got stock timing belts, right? replace them. they may NOT be skipped at all and may be stretched too far to allow for proper tension. In the meantime, take it all apart and see what things look like.. but leave your covers off. You DO need to replace those belts very very soon; and leaving the covers of for now at least, WILL make that job a great deal easier; all you will need to remove is the radiator, fan, and drivebelts i THINK.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 all you will need to remove is the radiator, fan, and drivebelts i THINK.. No need to remove the radiator if you don't want to. ity does make things easier but if you aren't ready to drin and refill you're cooling system the T-belt job can be done easily with the Rad and hoses still in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 My mistake, he does NOT still have the original timing belts on the car. To me, draining the cooling system and removing the radiator is a no-brainer.. the space gained to be able to look at the belt alignment and set the tensioners is MORE than worth the effort of draining and removing the radiator. It certainly CAN be done without taking it out, and I should have said that in the first place.. but IMHO it is MUCH easier to take a couple of extra steps (at most the drainplug four bolts and four hoses on an AT car, two on a manual plus the overflow hose) than to work around the radiator.. and I have small hands and arms; I am usually the one who gets called in for difficult-to-reach jobs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misledxcracker Posted July 8, 2007 Author Share Posted July 8, 2007 The cams are lined up properly, but when they're lined up, the flywheel line doesnt line up with the mark... Is that bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 8, 2007 Share Posted July 8, 2007 I was talking to him in IM, and I think he may have an einge with the front/rear crank sprockets switched out. can anyone remember any search terms that might help find that thread? He says that when the cam sprockets are line up, one pointed dead upwards, and the other dead downwards (they line up opposite of each other well) the pointer on the flywheel markings is pointing just outside one of the outer markers. to ME, this sounds like a case of "swapped sprockets" is likely; Also, given that his initial problem was two black spark plugs and two nice ones, IF the 20* initial advance was set off of the #2 spark plug wire, and the sprockets were reversed, exactly that would happen. More thoughts are welcome before he goes and tears his timing belts off because I suggested this from a continent away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted July 8, 2007 Share Posted July 8, 2007 quote; I was talking to him in IM, and I think he may have an einge with the front/rear crank sprockets switched out. can anyone remember any search terms that might help find that thread? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69210 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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