86BRATMAN Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 I've seen that happen quite a few times around here in the junk yards. If you don't look around and get it taken care of you will loose your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 I've seen that happen quite a few times around here in the junk yards. If you don't look around and get it taken care of you will loose your car. and the reason you dont notice it from the outside is cause of the undercoating...from the outside this looked fine..I found a small water leak around the seat belt and thats when I desided to pull this apart to fix from the inside... These guys know...I cried for days..but backwoodsboy stood up and welded some supports in.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 I've been doing the same with the hatchback... Floor pans looked great from underneath. Yanked the seats and "carpet" and found some bad rust hiding from me. It pays not to trust your eyes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 I normally drive my car at 3000+ rpms normally 3500-4000 range. I shift about 3700. I try and aviod my higer rpms because my car gets almost to the redline on the temp and engine gets extremley hot. If I go above the 4000 mark my car hates me loses some power and just gets really scarey to drive it there. As for the relays try and go after the eurpoean make cars. Any paticualer era as in 80's 90's or 00's. Also how much of a diffrence can removing the back seat make? Was gonna do a tear down to see how bad the rust really is. well, they are standard bosch units, about as common as the NGK BPR 6ES-11 plugs on our cars.. when a german needed a relay, for the last thorty or most likely far more years, he has grabbed one of these... You just need to poke around the foreign cars, with a tendency more towards european than japanese, but even some jap and american cars use them. Very, Very common part.just get a good eyeball look at the pictures I gave you, they pretty well covered the standard modern-day appearance of them. they may be any color plastic, or silver(or)dull grey metal. Now.. Regarding your heat climbing, that is NOT a good thing, my friend. You need to evaluate that problem and remedy it very quickly.heating up is one thing; but run this thing into the red once and it is likely to blow a headgasket. Maybe not immediately, but it is guaranteed in the foreseeable future. If you stay out of the red, you should be okay.. but riding NEAR the red a great deal may well cost you as well. Overheating is the death sentence for this engine (well for the headgaskets... the rest of the motor is usually OK) So, you do not want to overheat your car. Your car for some reason has a tendency to heat up?? Most of us never see the needle past 1/3 of the way up.. almost halfway maybe in certain conditions.. (i have a digidash.. normal is 3 bars out of ten, i sometimes see 4 bars in extreme situations, 9 and 10 bars are red.) "How do I diagnose cooling system problems," you ask? First step is to carefully, while the engine is hot, touch the entire surface of the radiator one hand print at a time, and feel for spots that aren't as hot as the rest.. this indicates that these spots of the radiator are clogged internally; one or two smallish areas arent a huge deal but alot of area makes the radiator no good, time for a replacement. If the rad checks out this way, get a bright light and shine it through the radiator and AC condenser, and see how clear the fins are. They can get clogged up with bugs and road grime and all sorts of lovely stuff; Mud, for instance. This is about the same as putting cardboard in front of your radiator in the winter to help it heat up quicker, or make the heater hotter. If you can, try spraying it with degreaser, let it soak, and blast it off with a garden hose. (remove the radiator first, it makes it alot easier and isnt difficult to do) Also check that your electric and clutch fans are operating properly. The clutch fan should spin freely on the pulley if you spin it by the blade when the engine is off and COLD, (AND turned off) but when the engine is HOT and turned off, the fan should have more resistance to spinning freely on the pulley. I can explain more thoroughly if you like; I am trying not to write a novel here The electric fan should come on when the car reaches a certain temperature, or when the AC is turned on. If the electric fan isnt cutting on, just let me know and I can explain the diagnostics for that. Also, (although I doubt it in your case) you might have a bad thermostat, or possibly a bad heater core.. but those are outside chances. In any case, keep that soobie cool, or else Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 7, 2007 Author Share Posted July 7, 2007 The temp gage is normally bouncing between 1/4 up to 1/2 up depening how much I move in 100 degree heat. If I go about 30mph it is at 1/4 but if I cruise at 45-55 in 100 heat it goes up to about 1/2. I rarely run my a/c now makes a horrid screech if I turn it on. I will check my rad when I get a chance to. I can probally do the light thing would it make a diffrence if it was day or night on it. I know my ele fan does turn on if it gets hot and the other fan does spin fairly easy when the car is off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 7, 2007 Author Share Posted July 7, 2007 I just checked my rad with the light test was fine will do the touch test tomorrow. Broke a clip on the front cover so now I have no cover on my front so I got a viod there but I like it:clap:. How hard will it be to fix the rear hatch handle, I was opening it and when I got it about an inch open it broke and now my hatch it stuck closed. List of things on the car: SPFI push button 4wd 5 speed manual awesome stock radio (not even caset in it) huge 13' inch wheels on oem rims Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 I just checked my rad with the light test was fine will do the touch test tomorrow. Broke a clip on the front cover so now I have no cover on my front so I got a viod there but I like it:clap:. How hard will it be to fix the rear hatch handle, I was opening it and when I got it about an inch open it broke and now my hatch it stuck closed. List of things on the car: SPFI push button 4wd 5 speed manual awesome stock radio (not even caset in it) huge 13' inch wheels on oem rims Okay, maybe you just creeped me out the way you were talking about avoiding it getting too hot... if 1/2 way on the gauge is "too hot" and it doesnt really climb above there, then you are fine. However, if it is in good shape the stock cooling system SHOULD be able to handle desert temperatures without a MAJOR increase in heat.. If you see much higher than 1/2 ever, then take my advice I gave before. If it stays around halfway, as a "high point" consistently, then I apologize for the "impending doom message" I am just trying to help you, thoroughly. I remember how frustrating it was when someone answered one post that just left more questions.. cant help you on the liftgate; I assume you mean the handle IN the hatch? my sedan is different for obvious reasons. I re read the whole thread and looked at your pictures again. If you are motivated, you may be lucky with the rust; it looks like most of the REALLY bad stuff IS in the easier areas, and you might just be in time to save the critical windshield mounting area. I will hope for the best for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 7, 2007 Author Share Posted July 7, 2007 It does climb above the half way point if I run the a/c or if I'm running it hard. But generally under normal driving without a/c it is just above the 1/2 way mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 8, 2007 Author Share Posted July 8, 2007 If anyone has questions about either of my loyales or I come up with more I will put more on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 8, 2007 Author Share Posted July 8, 2007 In all reality what excatally involved with doing a ej22t swap. With one of my loyales was gonna make a crazy little sleeper and use the other as a daily driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 8, 2007 Share Posted July 8, 2007 In all reality what excatally involved with doing a ej22t swap. With one of my loyales was gonna make a crazy little sleeper and use the other as a daily driver. Check out the Retrofitting Forum... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=29 There is also a recent thread by Tosh asking the same question, check it out... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76991 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 10, 2007 Author Share Posted July 10, 2007 I just read the topic by Tosh and there is quite a bit of info on there that I'm gonna have to re-read to get it all. So as of now these are my plans for my 2 Loyales: for the '92: EJ20something swap gonna do research to see which I want, Looking perfibally for a N/A in it though. Do all necessary upgrades to use it reliably. Do wheel swap from a pug to handle better tires. For the '93: Possibly add a factory sized turbo to it. Pug swap. Change from a SPFI to a MPFI and others as I see fit and want to do. One thing as I was sitting in us history today is could I change the gauges for the speedo, rpm's, battery, temp, oil pressure, and other gauges to other more accurate ones? As in after market such ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 You can swap them out. But you will have to and sending units for temp, fuel, oil pressure, speed, and fuel pressure. And you're looking at some pretty big money for all of the stuff neccessary to do so. And then you would have the issue of getting the new speed signal for the computer if you completely remved the original speedo because it is cable driven, and has the reed switch for the ecu in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 You can swap them out. But you will have to and sending units for temp, fuel, oil pressure, speed, and fuel pressure. And you're looking at some pretty big money for all of the stuff neccessary to do so. And then you would have the issue of getting the new speed signal for the computer if you completely remved the original speedo because it is cable driven, and has the reed switch for the ecu in it. Speedo and tach are accurate enough that I would not bother. Same goes for fuel level. Besides, to replace the voltmeter, the temp gauge, and the oil pressure gauge is going to be fairly expensive as it is. you COULD hack up the original cluster to install small gauges in the place of the originals.. i *think* that if I ever do any of this, that is what I will do.. but if you go so far as to get new fuel gauges, speedos, and tachs, unless you cheap out on the gauges you are getting then your gauge cluster will end up costing you more in each car, than each car did..... and cheaping out on the gauges makes no sense, if you are trying to replace cheap gauges in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 10, 2007 Author Share Posted July 10, 2007 What about doing one just for the temp just to get a more reliable one in it's place. I also have been thinking after or in the mean time of doing the swap in 1 of the Loyales with an EJ motor, turboing the other. I know I would have to redo the internals to have it reliable for even a small amount of psi. I was just thinking of doing one that is the same size or a little larger as the one that can with some origanally. This would give me a small umph in power without doing a full swap if I'm correct. Not looking for a huge increase in power on it. Also I have been trying to find out when do you lose the new user rating? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 What about doing one just for the temp just to get a more reliable one in it's place. I also have been thinking after or in the mean time of doing the swap in 1 of the Loyales with an EJ motor, turboing the other. I know I would have to redo the internals to have it reliable for even a small amount of psi. I was just thinking of doing one that is the same size or a little larger as the one that can with some origanally. This would give me a small umph in power without doing a full swap if I'm correct. Not looking for a huge increase in power on it. Also I have been trying to find out when do you lose the new user rating? For the ej swap you can plumb in a sendor where you see fit. Turboing the spfi will not be the best route for power, the computer won't compensate for the boost, and it will react finicky. Keep posting then you will loose the new user title. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 10, 2007 Author Share Posted July 10, 2007 What about changing from a SPFI to a MPFI and remaping. When I was talking about the gages I was refering to the car that is gonna have the ea in it and not the ej, that one will be a project in it's on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 there is no remapping; changing over to MPFI includes changing the ECU and wiring harness. You are talking about as much work as swapping an EJ into the car. Except, if you were to re build your engine, you would wind up also building an engine rather than just yanking a donor engine. A far far far far simpler answer would be to sell off your rusty Loyale, and buy a turbo EA82 wagon somewhere with less rust. Otherwise, (if you choose the rusty one for your "ea" car ultimately" you are talking about hundreds upon hundreds of hours "polishing the terd" because quite frankly, the EA82T is not a goal worth hundreds and hundreds of hours of work. It is a worthwhile engine, they are worthy vehicles with their quirks.. but to embark on a project of rebuilding an SPFI NA engine into a a turbo shortblock, then converting the vehicle over to MPFI, on a vehicle that has that much rust.. I mean, you are snowballing the project and adding major task onto major task onto major task onto major task. Just rebuilding an NA shortblock into a turbo shortblock is one major task, the vehicular conversion is another, the rust is another, and you are guaranteed to run into issues that nobody runs into simply because this is not a very common path to tread. Sure, most of the steps on this path have been taken by someone.. but you don't want to bite off more than you can chew. ESPECIALLY not when you are already planning to do all the swap/conversion work on the other vehicle. If you want a turbo EA82, then my advice is buy one and drive it and keep it up while you build your EJ. And, regarding the gauge question.. I don't want to scare you off from replacing guages like water temp and oil pressure. I was just pointing out that to replace six gauges is going to get expensive quick, thats all Sorry to burst the bubble, but someone had to say it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 10, 2007 Author Share Posted July 10, 2007 I have no problem with that you putting into a very clear point of view. Puts a sense or reality into the picture. If I decide to sell off the rusty one what would a reasonable price be? Second what would an EA82T wagon run? Also what years were they done in? Only reason why I asked about the gauges is I knew some other cars could just be replacments with little or no modding needed. As for bursting my bubble you just happen to reshape it into a more reasonable size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 Ea82t cars are availible from 85-90, or 91 I forget exactly, but I know there are a few ea82t loyales. Generally 89 up would be the best. You have better heads, gen2 or gen 3 heads usually, and they have a hot wire maf instead of the early flapper door style. You could probably look to get $500 from your car, if it were around here, your location value will differ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 10, 2007 Author Share Posted July 10, 2007 Probally a dumb question what models would have an EA82T in it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 GL-10 Turbo sedan or wagon or coupe, RX sedan or coupe, XT Turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 What I do to "look for subarus for sale" is pretty simple. I use mozilla firefox, so i do not know if other browsers have the option.. but one day I took some time, and went to the craigslist page for every city in florida, one at a time. I went into the Cars For Sale section, and searched the term subaru. I then bookmarked the URL of each city's CL search for "subaru" and put all the bookmarks into a single folder. When i move the mouse into that folder of bookmarks, I get an option at the bottom of the list to "open all in tabs." I click this, and suddenly I have 14 different browser tabs, each one listing any CL car for sale ad that had the word "subaru" in it. I can visually scan these pages and easily filter out the later models by model year and price, and only ever click on the ones that interest me. I have to go statewide to EVER find any results for older gen models.. but I live in rusty, snow free south florida. Soobs of this vintage are rather rare. The best way to acquaint yourself with the local market is to look look look at whats for sale. See what cars DONT sell and get re listed; those cars are overpriced. It is a waiting game; I see people charging over $2,000 for a 92 Loyale in decent shape, but I cannot believe for a second that you could sell either one of your cars for that much in Utah. Honestly, I cannot believe for a second that anything sold in Florida at that price, but I have seen prices that high or worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faithless88 Posted July 11, 2007 Author Share Posted July 11, 2007 Generally they sell for right around 1000 for good condtion and less for problems. In utah there is a tv station that is owned by a newpaper and has a really good selection of classfieds but will also try CL. Just went to the classfieds and found 4 other Loyales for sale in the near area for 900-1200. But will probally do a high price of 750-800 and do obo and say have a lower price at which I would sell it for and see what I can get for it hopefully 500 or so. IE newest version has tabbed browsing so I can have quite a few diffrent sites up at one time. And what is the rx and xt? This is what I found for gl'shttp://www.ksl.com/index.php?sid=&nid=443&tab=list Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xoomer Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76650 See there for the RX kit. A WRX and RX are two different beasts. The RX is ea82t car with all the extra upgraded nice stuff. Not always a turbo car.. rx was just an interior upgrade with the "sport" package, ie spolier and front bumper lip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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