PCV what is does And axle boot replacment.

[faithless88]

I hvae no idea what it does but that's what my CEL is saying is wrong with it. Was thinking about doing the relay shortcut about it but not realy sure what to do about it any suggestions?

 

How hard is it to replace the boot for the passenger side axle the one next to the tranny? I don't have a split boot for it I got the solid one.

[pinksock]

Look as far as the CV boot goes, take the boot kit back, drive it till it brakes (the CV joint that is) and then just replace the whole axle!!!!!!!!!! TRUST ME, ITS SO MUCH EASIER to change the whole axle then just the boot. The fact of the matter is you will end up removing the axle anyway, so why not just put a new one in. Just because the boot is bad doesnt mean the whole axle is bad. New or reman axle's at Schuck's or AutoZone are only $64.95 with core,(just bought one) the boot kits are some where around $20 a piece plus the new grease?? So for me it makes more sence to drive it till it brakes and then just spend $45 more to get the new one, PLUS NO MESS. Changing those boots are a pain is the @$$ and its a nasty process, you have to make sure all the old grease is off then you have to pack new grease in YUK!!!!!!!!!!! I watched a friend do it, and NO THANKS! Just drive it TILL its brakes TRUST ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Anyway just my thoughts on that, change it if you want (Good luck if you do).

 

Tony~

[Gloyale]

I have to disagree. If the axle is still in good shape, changing a boot is a good investment.(you keep getting use out of the old axle, rather than buy a reman one, which are ussually crappy and fail within a year.) If it's been torn for some time and a bunch of grit is in there, or if it's clicking than don't bother. But if no clicking or other signs of wear are present then changing the boot is an easy way to save money and extend the life of your investment.

 

You don't have to remove the axle entirely to do the job. You can leave the hub and axle nut alone. you do however have to remove the inner cup off of the stub shaft. So you will have to use some method of gaining clearance for this. Either removing the pinch bolt and droping out the ball joint, or removing the swing arm pivot bolt and the sway bar bolt(see Edrachs write-up) Punch the roll pin out of the inner joint from the UNBEVELED side(it's a tappered hole and if you punch from the beveled side it will just get tighter and tighter)

 

Now you should have room to slide the axle off the stub. Now cut away/pull back the old boot. On the inside lip of the cup there is a retainer ring in a groove that keeps the joint from sliding out of the cup. remove it and slide the cup off the end of the axle. once it's out, you'll see there is a snap ring holding the inner race to the axle shaft. remove it and slide off the inner race.

 

Now you can slide the new boot on. clean the race and the inside of the cup of all old grease. now pack a bunch of new grease in the cup. Install the inner(and outer) race and snap ring back onto the axle shaft. slide it into the cup, and install the retainer ring in the lip. Now clamp the new boot on and reinstall the axle to the stub on the transmission. Reassemble whatever you took apart at the wheel to get the clearance.

[Gloyale]

I hvae no idea what it does but that's what my CEL is saying is wrong with it. Was thinking about doing the relay shortcut about it but not realy sure what to do about it any suggestions?

 

This makes no sense. There is nothing electrical at all involed with the PCV. It vents the crankcase. It's a 5 dollar oneway valve that screws into the intake. It has a big hose from the valve covers attached to it. Change it out. It's cheap and often helps idle, power, and milage. But it can't have anything to do with you're CEL.

 

Do you mean EGR?

[pinksock]

Ok, to reply to what you said: for a back yard mechanic that doesnt have alot of tools and know how ( not refering to any of you) Just looking at the overall cost to what is easier to do. replacing the boot, boot kit (Autozone) $24.95+tax then big tube of grease $11.99 = at 6% tax(Idaho) $39.15 if thats all you need. Plus working in a very tight location if the axle isnt completely removed and on top of that a very nasty messy job to do. And most likely its been torn for a while, so for me..... The cost differents of (new axle $64.99+tax and lifetime warranty) $29.70 and very little mess, in my opinion thats $29.70 well spent and alot less hassle!!

 

But thats the great thing about living in America, We all can do whatever (just about) we want!! :)

 

Tony~

 

 

 

 

 

I have to disagree. If the axle is still in good shape, changing a boot is a good investment.(you keep getting use out of the old axle, rather than buy a reman one, which are ussually crappy and fail within a year.) If it's been torn for some time and a bunch of grit is in there, or if it's clicking than don't bother. But if no clicking or other signs of wear are present then changing the boot is an easy way to save money and extend the life of your investment.

 

You don't have to remove the axle entirely to do the job. You can leave the hub and axle nut alone. you do however have to remove the inner cup off of the stub shaft. So you will have to use some method of gaining clearance for this. Either removing the pinch bolt and droping out the ball joint, or removing the swing arm pivot bolt and the sway bar bolt(see Edrachs write-up) Punch the roll pin out of the inner joint from the UNBEVELED side(it's a tappered hole and if you punch from the beveled side it will just get tighter and tighter)

 

Now you should have room to slide the axle off the stub. Now cut away/pull back the old boot. On the inside lip of the cup there is a retainer ring in a groove that keeps the joint from sliding out of the cup. remove it and slide the cup off the end of the axle. once it's out, you'll see there is a snap ring holding the inner race to the axle shaft. remove it and slide off the inner race.

 

Now you can slide the new boot on. clean the race and the inside of the cup of all old grease. now pack a bunch of new grease in the cup. Install the inner(and outer) race and snap ring back onto the axle shaft. slide it into the cup, and install the retainer ring in the lip. Now clamp the new boot on and reinstall the axle to the stub on the transmission. Reassemble whatever you took apart at the wheel to get the clearance.

[nipper]

Ok, to reply to what you said: for a back yard mechanic that doesnt have alot of tools and know how ( not refering to any of you) Just looking at the overall cost to what is easier to do. replacing the boot, boot kit (Autozone) $24.95+tax then big tube of grease $11.99 = at 6% tax(Idaho) $39.15 if thats all you need. Plus working in a very tight location if the axle isnt completely removed and on top of that a very nasty messy job to do. And most likely its been torn for a while, so for me..... The cost differents of (new axle $64.99+tax and lifetime warranty) $29.70 and very little mess, in my opinion thats $29.70 well spent and alot less hassle!!

 

But thats the great thing about living in America, We all can do whatever (just about) we want!! :)

 

Tony~

 

Everyone should do it at least once .......

Then they will never do it again

 

nipper

[baccaruda]

I replace boots.

I take the axle all the way out because I feel it's easier to put it on the workbench, and because I like to shoot fresh grease into the wheel bearings when I have an excuse.

You can get a nicely shaped plastic trough from (I think) the wallpaper dept at the hardware store; it will help keep the mess self-contained.

 

A boot kit is far cheaper than changing the whole axle.

Running the axle until it breaks is a waste of money and a waste of axles.

Running the axle until it breaks is only for people who like walking home.

 

 

A tube of grease doesn't cost $12 each time you change a boot, it's about $3 per boot, and I use the bearing grease that is sold in tubs rather than in a tube.