Gyoas759 Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 I'm replacing the brake pads on two of my cars today. My 83 GL Wagon and a 90 Geo Metro. This is my first time replacing brake pads, so bear with me. I got the caliper off without much trouble, but reattaching it is a problem now. I'm not sure what the name of it is, but that big round thingy in the middle of the caliper is pushing out so far that I can't get the caliper back on with the brake pads in it. Any trick to getting it back in? And is it the same story with the Subies? I'd assume the brakes are similar. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 The subaru won't be the same. Use a big c-clamp to push that one back in. On the wagon, you'll have to twist the piston back in, vice grips, pliers, or a special tool from a parts store will be needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 That's called the piston. You need a clamp of some sorts to squeeze the piston back into the caliper. (I also crack open the master cylinder to relieve the pressure as you do it) I use a large wood clamp for this. You could also use a C-Clamp, though I would stick a piece of wood between the two so that pressure is applied evenly. On the Subaru, the piston has to be turned in as pressure is being applied. There's too little notches in the piston. Auto parts stores sell a little cube thingy that you attach to a ratchet that works okay for this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backwoodsboy Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 The round thingy is your caliper piston. On your GEO, it has to be compressed back in order to work right. Read all about that HERE >>>> http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityourself/ss/brakepadreplace.htm On your subaru........ you have to turn, AND compress or you will damage your subie! I think there are photos for this process in the USRM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 the difference, I think, is whether the caliper has an E-brake on it or not. If it has an E-brake it has to be screwed in clockwise, if it has no E-brake it will look like the caliper in your picture and it can just be compressed back in. Old Subarus have the E-brakes in the front calipers, most cars have the E-brakes in the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 the car has new brake pads on it. you may want to put on new rotors with another set of new pads. otherwiswe the existing pads are fine, but if you put new pads on the old rotors your brake pads will end up the same as the ones on there now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gyoas759 Posted July 14, 2007 Author Share Posted July 14, 2007 the car has new brake pads on it. you may want to put on new rotors with another set of new pads. otherwiswe the existing pads are fine, but if you put new pads on the old rotors your brake pads will end up the same as the ones on there now. Sounds like a plan. I think I'll just wait till I get it to PA for that. Cheaper parts out there. Gotta love Harry's U-Pull-it! has Tim said anything to you about doing this photo/video shoot in the next couple weeks? I have the trashwagon road ready and now with 15 inch Pugs and new glass. Just wondering if he still wants to try and get a gravel pit/power slide shot with it. That and I have that front fender and Radial GT wheel for you if you still want them. Let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gyoas759 Posted July 14, 2007 Author Share Posted July 14, 2007 Okay. Bought a 4 inch C Clamp and got to cranking. it got really tight and then bang! The C clamp broke in half. So I went a bought a bigger more heavy duty C clamp. I tightened things down and before the piston was even a half in in, it just got too tight to tighten any more. I mean REALLY tight. I even disconnected the caliper from the brake line to see if that might relieve the pressure. No luck. I have to think that this should be simpler. It's a Metro for crying out loud! Any secrets on getting that sucker in there? This C clamp is going nowhere fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smelly_cat Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 stop stop You have to screw the cyl in . get some channel locks and start turning that piston in. I did the same thing once and still feel like a %$# for it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gyoas759 Posted July 14, 2007 Author Share Posted July 14, 2007 stop stop You have to screw the cyl in . get some channel locks and start turning that piston in. I did the same thing once and still feel like a %$# for it great! I got it in, but now even after pumping the brake pedal about 5 times, the piston hasn't tightened. What next???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smelly_cat Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 I guess you have to drive around a bit or something. Stomp the pedal. I am doing the same brake job right now and I figure the mast cyl will get tight after a while . Maybe take the emerg brake off and see what happens. Bleed the line get the air out. then drive slow ..see if U stop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waimaks Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 I even disconnected the caliper from the brake line to see if that might relieve the pressure. This is why the piston is no longer moving. Have you bled the brakes after disconnecting the fluid filled lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gyoas759 Posted July 15, 2007 Author Share Posted July 15, 2007 This is why the piston is no longer moving. Have you bled the brakes after disconnecting the fluid filled lines? Nope. Man... one thing after another. I can get brake pressure by pumping the pedal for a while, but after I let up, the pressure is gone and the brakes don't work too well. What's the process for bleeding the brakes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smelly_cat Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 THis is what i do. get a buddy, tell em to pump the pedal 3 times slow and then hold the pedla to the floor. Then you turn the bleeder nipple and it squirts fluid out. in a rag or on your paint, in your eye , or if you got some fish tank airline hose. stick that on and it will channel into a cup.. any way do that a couple times. CHECK the brake resevoir. FIll it up. Now do the whole car. Start at the whell farest a way back pass one. do the pump pump hole it. bleed - tighten it repeat then the other back then the farset front the the driver sid front. KEEP refilling the fluid resevoir or you will be pump air in to the lines and it will make you sad Oh ya. My brakes are crappy too (after turning rotors and pads today). But I expect the cly to screw itself out sooner or later. just drive carefulle and think a ahead. Just in case you got no brake. Maybe practice stopping withe E brake to get practice. E Oh ya make sure the Emergency brake is off when you bleed the lines. Cheers. SC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waimaks Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 Yeah pretty much what he said. If you only did the fronts, shouldn't be too much of a mission. Start with the wheel furtherest away from the master cylinder, so for those in the US, I'm thinking RH front wheel, no need to bother with the rears if you havn't touched them. Make sure you've got some spare brake fluid, and the reservoiur is topped right up. Helps to have the wheel off, and a buddy who doesn't mind brake fluid, or just pumping the pedal. find the bleed nipple, probably like a 8,9,10mm fella. Get your mate to pump the pedal a few times, then hold it down. This is when you crack open the bleed nipple, and you'll probably get air for a bit, but when your mate says the pedal has moved to the floor, You'll close it off---- While he/she is still holding the pedal down. Now get him/her to pump and hold it down again, you do the opening and then closing again. Do this a few times, till you get fluid coming out every time and no air. Remember to check and top up the fluid aswell every 1 to 2 times you do that, to be on the safe side. If it empty's you are back to square 1. The pedal should be starting to feel a little better by now. Repeat for the drivers side wheel now. Put wheels back on... Check fluid level. Hose brake fluid off everything--- Its horrid stuff. And you should be done! Anyone feel free to correct any errors I may have made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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