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Need advice and some assistance. Driving my sons 92 Loyale wagon on the NJ Turnpike and the engine heats up and the oil pressure drops at 70 mph. Pulled dover and after a while everything is back to normal. Get up to Yonkers and the side streets and the OP goes south and the temp goes north. Slowly, Gently over 2 hours moved it the 4 miles to home. Fine light spray of oil over the front of the engine. Brakey smelling smoke lightly wafting up from the block. No water in oil. No oil in water. Possible oil pump and water pump failure simultaneously? Sound like another motor? Ideas?

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EEK

 

i dont like the fine spray of oil.

 

First off make sure the car is full of oil.

 

This is very important, did the oil pressure go south first or the engine overheat first (each time).

 

What i would do is have somone start the engine with the hood up and you looking to see if you can see the source of oil (ruling out a hole in the block). Wash down the engine and see if you can see where its comong from.

 

There are three likely causes for this sceanrio

 

- A failed oil pressure sender or switch.

- Failed oil pressure seals

-failed main seal (oil comes out and makes a mess in this scenario).

 

Is the car making any strange noises.

 

Does the main front pully wobble? (this can tear up a main seal sometimes)

 

nipper

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.

EEK

 

i don't like the fine spray of oil.

 

Neither do I. It is almost like a small water balloon filled with oil went into the fan. Not a lot, maybe 1/2 cup.

 

First off make sure the car is full of oil.

 

Dip stick is right up there. Although there is now a palm sized stain under the rear of the block.

 

This is very important, did the oil pressure go south first or the engine overheat first (each time).

 

Only hot first three times. I pulled over to let it cool, topped of the rad and continued. The OP did not drop until after I had gone 90 miles and was almost home. Car had great power for the whole trip.

 

What i would do is have someone start the engine with the hood up and you looking to see if you can see the source of oil (ruling out a hole in the block). Wash down the engine and see if you can see where its coming from.

 

Will try that tomorrow after it sits and cools all night.

 

There are three likely causes for this scenario

 

- A failed oil pressure sender or switch.

- Failed oil pressure seals

-failed main seal (oil comes out and makes a mess in this scenario).

 

Is the car making any strange noises.

 

Toward the end a LOT of rattling like loose silverware in the exhaust. it would stall out every time I came to a stop. I would wait a few minutes and it would restart, idle rough but still move.

 

Does the main front pulley wobble? (this can tear up a main seal sometimes)

 

As far as I could get my hand in there, no.

 

nipper

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i really dont like all the noise in the exhaust. These engines can't take repeated overheating (well any aluminum engine can't). Over heat them enough and the cylinder sleeve can shift, blow a HG, spin a bearing or all of the above. Oil pressure loss can be a spun bearing.

 

Let us know what you find.

 

nipper

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I had that happen with my old Loyale. Had to limp it home 180 miles. It took all day. It was the radiator. The originals tend to clog after a while. Don't drive or even run it or you'll crack the head if you haven't already. It's a relatively simple four bolt 2 hour project if I remember right. Good luck.

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if the motor gets hot enough it will thin out the oil pressure.

 

check the coolant cand see if it is low. perjhaps there may be a small leak or loss of coolant. more likely the original radiator is corroded or one of the fans are not working.

 

if hte motor is hot enough it will cook the oil and burn it.

 

so long as the overheat was not prolonged the motor should be ok. take a good look at the radiator and consider replacement. changne the oil.

 

the water pump may also be corroded and is not circukating efficiently. the cooling system is the most critical on these cars. take care of the cooling system(and do the timing belts while you are at it) and the car will take care of you

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Thanks. This will be another car I get from my son after it is broken (92 Infinity - through a stone wall and in a ravine, 93 Loyale wagon - only 1st and 2nd left on the auto, 93 Blazer - into the back of a Navigator at 35 mph while he looked backward to get on a highway) I have been letting it sit for a few days mainly because I was mad. There have been no more leaks since I parked it. It did start up and run the next day for a about 30 seconds and I turned it off. The temp never got into the red zone during the overheats but it did get steamy under the hood. I honestly would rather get a replacement engine and then play with this one at my leisure. I am going to check the U-Pulls in PA. This one was damaged during a trip to Trenton NJ to pick up Twobirds 89 RX Coupe (also running warm). Time to break out the flushing Tee's an start working my way up the progressively more money staircase of auto repairs. The oil change suggestion is a good one but there is still the faintest whiff of a burnt brake smell. Are there and composite gaskets in the EA82 block or am I smelling broiled belts?

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Don't be too incredibly hard on your son over this one.. it CERTAINLY is not the first Subaru to overheat!!!

 

If he managed to avoid letting it hit the red zone at all, then he deserves some commendation for that at least. It is more important to know for certain, though, that it didnt hit red. Have you done anything like an engine swap or major underhood work on a soob before? changing it should be a piece of cake, and *honestly* the engine you take out would be a worthy candidate to tear down, replace headgaskets and seals, and belts, etc at your leisure, and have as a top notch spare. Again, Provided that he is positive it never hit the red zone, there should be very very little chance of any other sort of damage beyond headgaskets, and even the HGs *might* still be functional.

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