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4EAT ready for install - suggestions? DONE!


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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75024

 

 

On my post above I stated I was looking for a used replacement for my '90 Leg AWD Wagon due to a couple issues. Although the issues haven't gotten any worse, I"m planning on doing the swap w/in the next month.

 

I bought a '91 4EAT and rear VLSD, both out of a Turbo (Mucho Thanks to 86ruguy for his help!) that I'm ready to install. I also got the Torque Converter, driveline, TCU, starter, Flexplate and rear axles.

 

Mr. Grossgary suggested the TC seal, ring seal around the torque converter shaft and the rear output shaft seal.....there's also a 'graphite' seal, which may be included in Gary's list?? He also states to leave the rear main alone, unless it's leaking (it's not- yet), as it is tricky to replace.

 

I have a Haynes manual and will likely enlist the help of a family friend who's a Jeep fanatic - he has the tools and a shop.

 

Any other links or books/manuals I should get? This will be my 1st project of this magnitude, but this doesn't sound like it's technically challenging as much as labor intensive.

 

I've done a search here and thru Google, so I have some info to go on, (esp. about ensuring the TC seats properly) but any additional details are appreciated.

 

Also, any info specific to checking-out the VLSD is welcomed.

 

Thanks!

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the graphite seal you mentioned will be the same as the "ring seal" i mentioned.

 

my recommendation isn't necessarily to "not replace" the rear main. but make very sure it's seating properly and everything is done exactly right if you do decide to replace it. there are a number of examples of people having them leak after installing a new one.

 

be very careful installing the torque converter in the transmission. if you've already got them, practice now well ahead of time. don't wait until the install. seating the TC the last 1/4" is tricky business and is hard to tell if it's fully seated or not. using the TC bolts to draw the TC and flexplate together = destroying your new trans. happens often (relatively speaking, it's not like that many trans get replaced). there's good info on this board about seating the TC, there was a recent thread about it and i got emails. search button will help you here.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Did the deed this last Friday/Saturday.

 

I had 2 helpers and we replaced the transmission, torque converter, driveline, flexplate, rear axles, left front axle (surprise!), starter and rear differential.

 

As mentioned thru-out USMB the TC was a challenge to line up :-\ . We all spent some time trying to figure it out. Eventually, I figured out what worked was to put the approx. 10" tube piece into the TC, then put both pieces into the tranny, turn it a bit, and it would seat. Used tie wraps/cable ties to hold it in place during the install. W/out the old to 'test' with, I'm not sure we'd have figured it out! I'm going to make a point to post some pics.

 

The rear diff was only a pain as there is more hardware to remove to get the axles out- axle nut, control arms, sway bar, strut...on the front it's just the nut and struts. The front left axle boot was completely ripped, and the inside of the wheel, fender and strut were covered in grease, so that was the surprise:rolleyes: , but was an easy $75 fix w/an axle from Autozone (yeah, I know - not A1 quality but I needed it - NOW) .

 

Outside of stipping a bolt on the pinion/yoke connection, which didn't matter as we replaced them w/the new (er) diff and driveline, there were no other major issues. I did find my left front bearing is shot, as I took it in for an alignment (I didn't 'supervise' the removal of the front struts and mark the alignment bolts) and they couldn't do it due to the bad bearing :mad: . Those are E-x-p-e-n-s-i-v-e to repair..$250+!!:eek:

 

I did leave the '90 TCU in initially and didn't seem to have AWD - that was until I punched it on a dirt road the rear end felt like it kicked in after 10 feet or so. But the next morning, I could hear the front wheels squeal a bit on take off and I've NEVER broken them loose on dry pavement, so I don't think the AWD was working correctly.

 

So, I swapped in the '91 Turbo TCU last nite and it seemed to be working properly- I 'tested' it on a patch of gravel road and couldn't break it loose ....If I still had only FWD, it should've spun for a little bit...even w/the non-turbo 2.2!

 

Thanks to all for the info on the forum and to 86RUGuy for helping me get the tranny and to GrossGary for his valuable input.

 

UP next??? Maybe a Turbo??? Or something easy like the 50/50 diff lock trick.

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  • 1 month later...

a cheaper alternative to the hub bearings is just to buy a used hub for $25-$50. they are very easy to find, less down time, and cheap. and they are easier to do yourself than replacing bearings. but i've had dozens of XT6's, taken them over 200,000 miles and i've never had to replace any bearings ever, so i'm probably overly confident in used ones. the further south you are the harder the heat is probably on the bearings...maybe, maybe not? michael sees notorious bearing issues in florida, i just figure it's heat related.

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