EA 82 engine temperature variation

[subarari]

Hey guys I have an 87 DL SPFI wagon that runs at different temperatures depending on the air temperature. I know this is usually normal, but my car is a little backwards. It runs hotter when it's cold outside and cooler when it's hot outside???? Also the car seems to have more power when the air temperature is warmer and is a dog when it's cooler outside. Any ideas on this one.

Thanks

Chris

[cobcob]

Hey guys I have an 87 DL SPFI wagon that runs at different temperatures depending on the air temperature. I know this is usually normal, but my car is a little backwards. It runs hotter when it's cold outside and cooler when it's hot outside???? Also the car seems to have more power when the air temperature is warmer and is a dog when it's cooler outside. Any ideas on this one.

Thanks

Chris

I think it's seriously broken beyond all repair... better send it to me and I'll take it off your hands...

Seriously though, that is really weird... on a car I used to have it would overheat occasionally but only when it was really cold... that problem was traced back to a faulty radiator cap that wasn't sealing properly due to the low ambient temps (20deg or so) that was non-soob though so I don't know if that could be a factor with yours

[zyewdall]

Hmmm. weird. Sounds like it might need a new thermostat, and maybe a radiator flush? I've had a bad thermostat cause it to run high in cold weather but not in hot weather.

 

Generally, the colder it is, the more power it'll have (my diesel vehicals really do this, but the suby does somewhat too) IF the engine is getting up to operating temp that is. Which it sounds like it is... but... check that thermostat?

 

And, it could be demons. If a thermostat and radiator cap doesn't help, you might consult an exorcist...

 

Z

[nipper]

Im going for a radiator on this one. You are on the threshold of having a bigger problem i think. Of course check your altenator output and make sure your cooling fans work first.

 

When its cool outside, the cooling fans dont need to come on as often, so the car cant get rid of all its heat. If you have two cooling fans (electric or otherwise) the 2nd one only comes on with the ac.

 

When its hotter outside, the fans run more often, or are on all the time with the ac. There is a lot more air moving through the radiator.

 

First thing i would do is physically remove the radiator and inspect the cooling fins. See if they are still there or are clogged. As long as you have it out, put the cap back on it and fill up the upper hose with water. the same amount of water should go out as goes in. If the Upper hose starts to overflow and the bottom has a poor flow, the radiator is clogged. you should also be able to feel the radiator being evenly cold (temp of the hose water).

 

Just my guess.

 

nipper

[subarari]

Thanks for the responses...The thing is my radiator is new, thermostat and thermostatic fan switch are new as well. I'm guessing the water pump maybe? I haven't changed it and I don't know when it was changed last, though it's not leaking. It almost feels like when I had a dirty AFM, kinda sluggish with low power, like it's running lean..I'm not sure on this one:-\

[daeron]

Thanks for the responses...The thing is my radiator is new, thermostat and thermostatic fan switch are new as well. I'm guessing the water pump maybe? I haven't changed it and I don't know when it was changed last, though it's not leaking. It almost feels like when I had a dirty AFM, kinda sluggish with low power, like it's running lean..I'm not sure on this one:-\

You use anti freeze, right? instead of water? (living where I do has certin advantages, that aren't really advantages.. the ability to run straight water year round is one of those double edged swords)

 

Sometimes some water pumps with stamped sheetmetal (thick sheetmetal but sheetmetal) impellers can have the impeller rust away, leaving you with a pump that just spins an axle and vaguely stirs the water up a bit.. In other words, a non functioning water pump that gives no sign other than odd overheating.

 

If you don't know when the water pump and timing belts were changed last; and you are having cooling problems despite a new radiator, hoses, and thermostat*; and you know that there is PLENTY of air moving over the radiator, it has no clogged AC condenser in front of it or anything; AND your cooling fans are working as they should (you said new parts, but didn't say "yah it comes on when it gets hot, and blows air real swell, in the right direction and everything," heh..) then water pump is the next rule-out part to throw at it.

 

*OEM thermostat? that is the only one recommended, I run no thermostat, see double edged sword above

 

The pump and timing belts should be changed, and the timing belt idlers and tensioners checked and greased, simply because you don't know when they were done last anyhow, so it will hurt nothing. Even if you discover that the water pump seemed fine, and your problem persists afterwards, at least you know the pump is good; you cant "inspect" it, really, unless you want to take the output hose off and crank the engine on briefly.. although, I suppose that would work.. :scratches head:

 

Make sure that all the bases leading up to the "water pump" conclusion are firmly checked off though. It isnt a difficult job, but it is a somewhat.. tedious? one.. it takes alot of simple disassembly and re assembly, and you want to be fairly certain it is your culprit before embarking on it. (Even though you really ought to do it anyway for peace of mind)

 

One final thought: make sure your radiator hoses aren't collapsing under high rev; did you replace them? did they fit well onto the new radiator or did they have to be stretched or pushed in at all? When you have a hose thats a little too long, or too short, but not incredibly so you can often stretch or "squeeze" it into shape, and doing so can result in a tendency to collapse at awkward times. Definitely common enough to be worth looking into.