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XT6 won't run!! @!#&*


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i just wasn't sure if it was worth it.
definitely worth it. whatever you do...don't even think about JB Weld or anything like that, i'm surprised noone mentioned it yet. use a helicoil or similar insert. how much material came off with it? sometimes they loose a good bit of material when they come out. is it the pulley that tensions the belt, that's the one that normally does this. be glad it didn't shear off (that happens too) or take a huge chunk out with (that also happens). wow...these little buggers cause a fair amount of big problems now that i think about it.

 

anyway...if you can drill and use a helicoil, you're fine. if you've never used one, don't be too worried about it, it's not complicated at all.

 

depending which one it is, sometimes you have the option of finding a longer bolt as well. the bolt holes tend to be deeper than the bolts used. so finding a longer bolt can sometimes work. but based on what you're telling me, i'm guessing that won't work on this one. it definitely works on the passengers side XT6 ones and the cam bolts. and not to mention those bolts on the drivers side are rather large. you could check though as there are 3 pulleys on that side and i'm uncertain which one you're talking about. if you find signficant depth to use, then chase the existing threads with a tap, then chase your new bolt with a die to make sure the threads are perfect. often requires cutting a bolt that's too long to get the exact right depth or using a washer under the head as a spacer.

 

there's also the option of just upgrading one size bolt...go slightly larger either english units or metric. tap the existing hole out and use a larger bolt, but the pulley may then need work as well because the bolt may not fit through it. but this does avoid the issue of drilling into your heads and installing a helicoil.

 

not trying to loose focus, but give you as many options as possible. i'll try to follow this thread, if you have a specific question and i don't see it, hit me with a PM or email.

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I have been following this thread and I am wondering if your XT6 has been talking to mine:grin: They both seem to have the..anything that can go wrong will syndrome. Actually it really isnt that bad..just follow what gary is saying and you should be fine

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I think That is an M8 bolt hole. Same as the exhaust studs. You could probably tap the striped hole directly, for a 7/16 bolt. (7/16 tap ussaully call s for 3/8 drilled hole. M8 is about 25/64 so pretty damn close.)

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I think That is an M8 bolt hole. Same as the exhaust studs. You could probably tap the striped hole directly, for a 7/16 bolt. (7/16 tap ussaully call s for 3/8 drilled hole. M8 is about 25/64 so pretty damn close.)

 

 

its an M10x1.25

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:confused:

I cant find a replacement idler bearing.

 

Ive gone to 3 shops and called 4 bearing manufactures and i get nothing. Can anyone up north get these pulleys.

 

Its the one on the drivers side that puts tension on the lower side of the belt. If you are still not sure i will post some pictures to clarify.

 

I dont know what to do, i pulled the pulley off the other engine and its worse that the one on my installed engine. But the goods news is that the tensioners on the spare engine look to be brand spank'n new.

 

If anyone can help me out getting this part it would be awesome.

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Don't they use the same idlers as an ea82?

 

 

well i went to my subaru dealer ship and tryed to cross refrence the part # and it didnt work....:slobber: ... thinking... :eek: ...

 

wait!!!:banana: i own a loyale with a ea82 in it. I can just look. yeay!!! thanks for helping me discover the obvious. :clap:

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yeay, i found someone with a spare set on the temp xt6.net, i will be getting the pulleys in the next couple of weeks, nextweek i plan to do prep work to the engine block, and im going to change all my drivi train gear oil. I can get all royal purple on sale so o think i will just do that, and i also got all my brembo brakes in from my distirbuter. lots o work ahead.

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yeay, i found someone with a spare set on the temp xt6.net, i will be getting the pulleys in the next couple of weeks, nextweek i plan to do prep work to the engine block, and im going to change all my drivi train gear oil. I can get all royal purple on sale so o think i will just do that, and i also got all my brembo brakes in from my distirbuter. lots o work ahead.

 

Did you post the info for the Brembo stuff over on the XT site?

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its the stock brembo kit for the car. Brembo stopped manufacturing the rear brake rotors in like 98, according to my sources. Nothing really special, but still better then going with Eccentric or other ************ty brands.

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  • 2 months later...

well i got a new set for a guy richardstanly (or something like that, sorry i cant remember the sn off the top of my head) witch took alot longer than expected, anyways i got them and installed them. In the process i found the problem, the passenger side tensioner had seized up and welded together, ill post pics when i take them. So i replaced everything in there with some decent pulleys and put her all back together. Now it runs with 6 cylinders instead of just 3 but it still runs like its on 3. I did the timing, i did the timing belts like the book said, i even made a special hold down tool for the funky springloaded tensioner, and i had to helicoil 3 bolt holes in the process.

 

So to get to the point... how do i get my horses back.

 

 

my mechanic friend (no a subie specialist but hes been around) says i ether have a burned up valve, stuck valve, clogged cat, incorrect compression, or a bent valve, or i need a new O2 sensor.

 

but my understanding is that this engine is non interfering so the bent valve thing cant happen right?

 

as of now it runs decent and idles rough when cold, when warmed up it idles smoother and revs good, but has no power and backfires when the engine is under load.

 

any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks guys.

 

p.s. my girlfriend thinks my car is in its grave, and wants me to get it outta her driveway, and the "its a classic subie" dose not sway her. so the faster i convince her its a sound drivable car the sooner i get home to a smile.

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I'm assuming the 6 is like the 4 in that you need to crank the engine over once in between the belts to get the cams 180* from each other.

 

Common problem is to put both cam dots 'up', and put both belts on. That will cause several running issues, which it sounds like you have.

 

-Dave

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I'm assuming the 6 is like the 4 in that you need to crank the engine over once in between the belts to get the cams 180* from each other.
yep, you assumed right dave. i explained in graphic detail on the XT boards, so check there. i am guessing this is the problem as well.
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thankyou thankyou, yes that sounds like the problem. I did replace the plugs wires distributor and rotor. I work at an Orelly's, so i get that sort of stuff cheap, and in this case free because they were still under my 1 year warranty.

 

I will tear that thing down again and flip a cam, dose it matter which one i flip, i don't remember seeing this in the service manuals, although i was in a bit of a hurry when i did it so i could have missed it.

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I will tear that thing down again and flip a cam, dose it matter which one i flip,
it shouldn't matter. this of course assumes that the drivers side cam was EXACTLY perfect the first time you did it...if that's the case, then just install the passengers side correctly this time. which is nice the passengers side is easy.

 

what you'll want to do it get the flywheel marks lined up so that the cams are both pointing down...they sholud both point the same way since that's how you incorrectly installed them in the first place. with both down....the drivers side is correct, the passengers side needs to come off, then line it up (noon 12 oclock) and it'll be right. remember - the marks have to be on the exact right tooth, you can't be off. double check your drivers side while you're in there taking the passengers side off.

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