Bucky92 Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 This weekend I think I am going to finally button up Buckys wheel wells ...basically ..so if I need him and its raining there isnt a shower inside. Going to use glass ...any pointers since I usually use bondo? ( I also need to get his interior back in so I can have the garage back to get Pheebs in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 It will get messy, so have some good latex style gloves so you can still feel what you are doing. Lay the cloth up to where you are going to be applying it, cut it to the size you'll be using. The main thing is, if its your first time using glass to use a little less hardener than it calls for in the resin. When I use the recommended amount it dries in about 10 minutes to where you can't move it around anymore. But still takes a while to cure. Always use at least two layers of cloth for each spot, that way you'll know its firm and sealed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 26, 2007 Author Share Posted July 26, 2007 Thanks Shannon...at least its going to be in a hidden area..so the practice will be good before working on Pheebs ( going to try the glass instead of the bondo this time) Got too many parts laying around that need to get either into the appropriate car or chucked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 In all honest, after you get the hang of it you'll probably like it better than regular bondo. I'd much rather do repairs with it than trying to bend sheet metal. And I'm better with glass than sheet metal too(you've seen my curve making ability with metal). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75subie Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 for the record chopped fiberglass is a PITA never tried the sheets with seperate resin. i am pretty mean with some house window wrapping aluminum, some snips and a rivet gun tho:grin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonfire Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 for the record chopped fiberglass is a PITA amen to that. had to glass in the floor pans on my dads vette. used chopped on one side that i went to straight to the store and bought the cloth. much faster and easier. if you use gloves try to find the blue ones they are little thicker than the white ones but hold up better to the resin. big box!!!!!!lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 for the record chopped fiberglass is a PITA never tried the sheets with seperate resin. i am pretty mean with some house window wrapping aluminum, some snips and a rivet gun tho:grin: for the record, chopped fiberglass is designed to be used in conjunction with sheet fiberglass, usually at the same time (same batch of resin) or as additional steps in the process of the sheet fiberglass repair. It is basically bondo for your fiberglass job. Fiberglass work is FAR EASIER than bondo work.. you just need to achieve a rough shape. Try using cardboard jigs to form the "panels" that you lay in, and it will be a piece of cake; (as long as you can get the cardboard out from behind afterwards) AND it will give you practice getting the plane of your repair right. Fiberglass sheet repair is rough work, designed to be a base to smooth out and shape with various fillers and sanding, and work heh.. But it isnt that much more "work" than any other aspect of body repair, and you seem to have a knack for that. Some people prefer sheetmetal and some fiberglass, but truly there are proper times and places for each. It won't be difficult for you. You might not like doing it as much as sheetmetal repair, in the end, but it won't be beyond your abilities. (and I was going to make a straitjacket joke when I read the subject header, HAH!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 27, 2007 Author Share Posted July 27, 2007 I have the one side almost done from the inside..just using the material and the long fiber glass.. All the big holes were done with sheet metal already so all that was left was the seam around the door opening and the seams in the metal..I also covered where the seat belt mounts to strengthen the metal ( not that I am going to allow passengers back there ..but for looks) One plus is ..I dont have to sand this down cause its going to be covered with the panel:) ugly is good! I plan on pulling the wheels and sealing the seams from the outside then with silicone then shooting the wells with a couple heavy layers of undercoating ..just to make sure no more water gets into the car and it should be good to go...then I have to do a few small things to Pheebs and she will be ready to be turned into the daily driver..I can gut Rockys interior and put the new carpet in ( thanks Daddy!) Then deside what exactly Buckys fate will be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reveeen Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 Sometimes spray foam (the kind that comes in a can to be used around windows and doors) can be your friend. A quick easy fix for, well, in the wheel opening areas, you foam the holes, let it expand and dry, trim/shape with a knife, then undercoat the crap out of (because un-protected foam will absorb/hold water like a sponge). Not really a "long term" fix, but will get you out of trouble (and through an inspection) and slow up water migration into the trunk/rocker panel. No strength, but a quick easy hole plug(s). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 27, 2007 Author Share Posted July 27, 2007 Sometimes spray foam (the kind that comes in a can to be used around windows and doors) can be your friend. A quick easy fix for, well, in the wheel opening areas, you foam the holes, let it expand and dry, trim/shape with a knife, then undercoat the crap out of (because un-protected foam will absorb/hold water like a sponge). Not really a "long term" fix, but will get you out of trouble (and through an inspection) and slow up water migration into the trunk/rocker panel. No strength, but a quick easy hole plug(s). I use that stuff all the time:grin: its almost like the greatest thing since sliced bread for body work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 I'm with Bondo and Fiberglass and fillers. Sheet metel is hard!! I'm trying to fix my rear driver's side door because the hole bottem is gone! My dad tryed to do sheet metel but it's really hard to forurm! So maybe this weekend i can get my dad to help with fiberglass and it'll be good to go!!! I'm going to take the door panel off so i can get inside to put the fiber sheet down and then put glass in there and then do the outside withn glass and bonder with fiberglass resin in it!! And to get rid of any dimples i mite have i use glazing putty! All by the Bondo compeny!! Sorry for stealing your thread Connie! Later, Tom............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 Tom, as with any body repair, make sure you completely remove all the rust and affected metal. Or it will come back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 I'm with Bondo and Fiberglass and fillers. Sheet metel is hard!! I'm trying to fix my rear driver's side door because the hole bottem is gone! My dad tryed to do sheet metel but it's really hard to forurm! So maybe this weekend i can get my dad to help with fiberglass and it'll be good to go!!! I'm going to take the door panel off so i can get inside to put the fiber sheet down and then put glass in there and then do the outside withn glass and bonder with fiberglass resin in it!! And to get rid of any dimples i mite have i use glazing putty! All by the Bondo compeny!! Sorry for stealing your thread Connie! Later, Tom............ Would have been easier to replace the whole door. Its not worth all the labor when it can be replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 27, 2007 Author Share Posted July 27, 2007 Sorry for stealing your thread Connie! Later, Tom............ Its OK Tom..you are just lucky I like you;) :-p And I am with Turbone..I would just replace the door...mine are bad on the XT6 and when I find good ones I will just swap and repaint. As for shaping the metal...if it isnt anything structural ( meaning having a load on it) I use sheet aluminum..easy to form and doesnt rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 I think that's what we have! But the bends are a little hard! I hope no one misunderstood when i sad the hold bottem of the door! What i ment was the bottem flat part where the rubber seal is! The part of the door that meats the running board! Yeah just were the door curves and then the bottem.. I'll see about some pics! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 I think that's what we have! But the bends are a little hard! I hope no one misunderstood when i sad the hold bottem of the door! What i ment was the bottem flat part where the rubber seal is! The part of the door that meats the running board! Yeah just were the door curves and then the bottem.. I'll see about some pics! Repairing the door skin is a waste of time; repairing the bottom curve of the door is a sick, masochistic, twisted waste of time, patience, sanity, and un-grey hairs. 10 goto "junkyard" 20 :junkyard: take "newdoor" 30 goto "home" 40 :home: take off "olddoor" 50 install "newdoor" 60 end Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seahag1978 Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 Repairing the door skin is a waste of time; repairing the bottom curve of the door is a sick, masochistic, twisted waste of time, patience, sanity, and un-grey hairs. 10 goto "junkyard" 20 :junkyard: take "newdoor" 30 goto "home" 40 :home: take off "olddoor" 50 install "newdoor" 60 end Hey the water flows down the window and right out the bottom of the door... no worries, right? Seriously, my bottom welds are g-o-n-e in the '86, they have been since day one of ownership. To buy and ship 2 doors across the country is VERY expensive, let alone whether it makes it without a forklift puncture or a drop from 10 feet. True stories... TWO BRAND NEW hoods. There are NO junkyards on the east coast with old Subes, if they still have one kicking around, it's toast for sheet metal, interior... NICE! The ones I have found managed to get 75,000 (highest) on the clock before they rusted into unroadworthiness. Sometimes a lot of tedious repair is the only option. Can't you just feel the love? It's the only reason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 Yeah that's true!! There arent any yards that have older Roo's! And i have nothing better to do anywayz Hahahaha! It's all about love! And that's what i have for my EA82!:cool: But the one thing i've gotta do is drill holes when i'm done so the water go's out and so i can put my door rubber back in!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 28, 2007 Author Share Posted July 28, 2007 I should be out working on Buck right now but NOOOO it pouring down rain right now:rolleyes: ..at least I dont have to water the plants today...geesh..cant even give the Imp her tune up cause no room in the garage:Flame: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 Yeah, We've had a rainy july down here. I haven't managed to get anything at all done, except pull some bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 29, 2007 Author Share Posted July 29, 2007 Got to spend some quality time with Bucky today..have his wheel wells almost done ...just want to re-enforce where the seat belts will mount back up ( for my own sake..I still wont allow passangers there) and need to trim the insulation foam filler and one small part of glass needs done...then pull the rear wheels and undercoat the bajeebas out of the wells. There is one spot where I think the sheet metal sticks out to far for the interior panel to fit back on..I would have had it finished today but it started to pour again ( we had a heavy storm just sitting over here for a few hours now). I miss that car....still can't be on the road till he gets new axles and tires ( the tires are scarey bad and so is one of the axles).I was following the "cleaning the Maf" thread and might do that too since he has the symptoms of a dirty MAF..I so miss that car..I love that car. Getting the Imp legal within the next couple weeks so I can stop driving the XT6..but I have a feeling that once old Bucky is back up I will be wanting to use him all the time...Actually..I would do almost anything right now to have him back to at least 98%. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 "scarey bad," huh? my name is Shawn Carey, so Scarey is kinda my initial and last name.. but I comment because coincidentally enough, it is exactly what I have thought of the condition of the tires on the back of my 2wd for the last 2,000 miles. It is AMAZING how slowly those tires wear with only 35% of the weight of the car rolling on them... Less, without much gas! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 30, 2007 Author Share Posted July 30, 2007 "scarey bad," huh? my name is Shawn Carey, so Scarey is kinda my initial and last name.. but I comment because coincidentally enough, it is exactly what I have thought of the condition of the tires on the back of my 2wd for the last 2,000 miles. It is AMAZING how slowly those tires wear with only 35% of the weight of the car rolling on them... Less, without much gas! I have probably put 10K miles on these bad tires...you know running the same snow tires all year long....for 5 years ...and the dry rotted worn out rears have been on for 3 or 4 years...and are so out of balance..flat spotted..etc.LOL..I had to run a friend to the Harley dealer when his bike broke the clutch cable a couple weeks ago ( when my XT6 was broke down in PA) and we took Bucky..my friend was watching the rear wheels through the holes and his reaction was:eek: good lord those tires are bad ..plus when it rains I get no grip..its like driving on ice on slicks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 You saw that rear one on the hatch. It likes to dance for me in the rain:grin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 I have probably put 10K miles on these bad tires...you know running the same snow tires all year long....for 5 years ...and the dry rotted worn out rears have been on for 3 or 4 years...and are so out of balance..flat spotted..etc.LOL..I had to run a friend to the Harley dealer when his bike broke the clutch cable a couple weeks ago ( when my XT6 was broke down in PA) and we took Bucky..my friend was watching the rear wheels through the holes and his reaction was:eek: good lord those tires are bad ..plus when it rains I get no grip..its like driving on ice on slicks In other words, "scarey bad" wow, that is bad. I figured you were probably right in your judgment, but I wanted to comment on how crazy slow the rear tires wear anyhow. 2WD FTW on the 60,000 mile used rear tire front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now