hush777 Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 I have read about the problems with the solenoid and other things on this trans, so I have my own thoughts about what is going on, but I would like some other opinions. This is a 97 impreza sport. Auto 2.2l When we got this car it had about 300,000 miles and several problems. Most of which we have fixed. I did not find in the records that we got any signs that the trans fluid was changed at all. It still seemed to be ok with only a slight amount of bind, mainly when backing. I changed the fuild (didn't have the ability to do a flush) and then thought that it would be good to get rid of some more of the old fluid and drained and refilled again. After the second time it started to do some strange things. More binding, and rather harsh when going into park..... also the car would release more after the engine was shut off. I put the FWD fuse in and it didn't seem to do anything, no less bind and also no FWD light on the dash. Checked today and there is no power at all at the FWD fuse. Anyone have a diagram for the wiring on this. (I have one but not on this computer, the other computer is 65 miles from the car). Any thoughts why the bind started after the second refill?? TIA Hush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 It can either be coincidence, or the fresh fluid degummed an already bad Duty C solenoid. I know the FWD fuse sends a signal to the TCU, and the TCU lights up the FWD lamp. I wonder if your TCU is bad. I am not home, and wont be home till monday. Much to my surprise my manuals are not on this laptop. I am sure someone else will chime in. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 i hanen't experienced a fluid change causing binding, but i have experienced an intermitent binding / FWD light. my son's 95 legacy, 180k, with a 96 leg auto trans, 125k, started to bind after the trans had been in for about 4 months. (it's the last time i put in a used trans without replacing the DUTY C). so we put the FWD fuse in. some times the fuse would work and FWD would light up and eliminate the binding. some times the light would not come on and the binding continued. so we left the fuse in and hoped for the best. he reported the FWD light was on most of the time but occasionally, when he was driving it hard, the light would go out. i then tried a flush and swapping out the TCU but no change. after a couple of weeks, i pulled the rear drive shaft (left the fuse in just for grins) and off he goes. 3 days after the fuse removal he called to say the FWD light came back on. thanks murphy!! so the duty c can be intermittent. it's my opinion, and only my opinion, that the things are heat sensitive. and when running at 70 /75 mph and then being pressed to run harder, the duty c would quit working for a while. the duty c is not teribly expensive, 100$ at the dealer, maybe 75$ online. but the labor is a killer. 285$ last time at a local shop to swap in a good used rear extention housing. good luck, let us know what you find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hush777 Posted July 27, 2007 Author Share Posted July 27, 2007 Would it hurt to jump a hot wire into the FWD fuse to see if I can get the solenoid to kick in?? Hush P.S. Which side?? (engine or fender) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 Would it hurt to jump a hot wire into the FWD fuse to see if I can get the solenoid to kick in?? Hush P.S. Which side?? (engine or fender) i wouldn't mess with the electricity until you know the wiring diagram. long , long ago, some one talked about what "should" be found at the fuse holder but i can't remember. there a chance it's just resistance, no volts.?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 More binding, and rather harsh when going into park..... also the car would release more after the engine was shut off.Hush put the car in neutral for a second before you shift into park, that should help bleed off the binding, or turn the car off before shifting into park. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hush777 Posted July 27, 2007 Author Share Posted July 27, 2007 I'll try that today. I think that the trans is releasing properly when I put it into park but the solenoid is not disconnecting the rear. Thereby the release when the car is shut off. How hard is it to change the solenoid if I have to go that route? Should I look for a silicone clutch pack also. (trans has over 300,000) on it. Hush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 I'll try that today.I think that the trans is releasing properly when I put it into park but the solenoid is not disconnecting the rear. Thereby the release when the car is shut off. How hard is it to change the solenoid if I have to go that route? Should I look for a silicone clutch pack also. (trans has over 300,000) on it. Hush THE RELEASE YOU FEL IS THE DIFFERENCE IN THE BINDING ON THE FRONT AND REAR WHeels. as long as the trans is in gear and the engine is running and there is a difference between front and rear, you'll feel this. putinig it in neutral before park just allows the trans to bleed off the binding with out a clunk. the duty c solenoid is located in the rear extention housing on the trans, this is where the drive shaft comes out and goes to the rear wheels. changing the duty c can be done with the trans in the car but it's a job. especially if you are doing it in your driveway. all automatics from the 90's have basically the same clutch pack, manual trans have a different one, it's a viscous clutch. i don't think there is a silicone clutch pack for a auto trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hush777 Posted July 27, 2007 Author Share Posted July 27, 2007 Found on this computer some of the diagrams and charts that I had downloaded several years ago and some of it was about the trans. I think that I need to run by an autozone and have them read the obd2 for codes..... The light has been on since we got the car....300,000+ miles and it was only showing knock sensor...... car was leaking bad when we got it....1 gallon per week.....1000 miles per week as a upsp delivery vehicle.... rear main leaking...... so i think the piston slap is a bit excessive and sets the knock sensor off within a couple minutes of clearing the codes.... of course then you can't tell if there are any other codes showing up. Will have it checked today and see if I can get any trans codes. Hush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hush777 Posted July 27, 2007 Author Share Posted July 27, 2007 i wouldn't mess with the electricity until you know the wiring diagram. long , long ago, some one talked about what "should" be found at the fuse holder but i can't remember. there a chance it's just resistance, no volts.?????? Yeah the diagram shows that the TCU grounds through the fuze. So voltage would not do any good there. Hush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 If your car ends up throwing a knock sensor code, it is a bad sensor. Procupine posted up somewhere how to "trick" the ecu with a resistor into thinking it has a good knock sensor. Or if you feel more comfortable buying and installing a new sensor try www.rockauto.com They are pretty reasonable from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.