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wheel hop after control arm modification (resolved see last post)


s'ko
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BRAT w/EJ18 w/xt6 engine crossmember 5 lug, 5 inch lift, modified control arms, 225-70-16 tires. No front sway bar. (will be installing that when I get home tonight.)

 

I had some pretty nasty camber problems after I installed a xt6 engine crossmember to my BRAT. I wanted the power steering and the 5 lug set up.

 

Anyways my tires were like this \--/

so I extended my control arms by an inch. It currently sticks out one inch after the radius rod. So I only changed the track and not the geometry of the control arm/radius rod.

 

Any ideas on what happened? Toe seems to be right. Not sure about the caster. Camber is still a bit \--/ but no where near what it was like before.

 

any ideas?

 

BW

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just thought of something else.

 

The radius rods were tightened with the old set up.

 

I didn't readjust then with the longer control arms.

 

will loose radius rods give you wheel hop?

 

BW

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you would have to bring hte strut tops inward, have some offset with the strut top lift block.

 

i read the proportion is 7mm inward for every inch.

 

after I installed a xt6 engine crossmember to my BRAT. I wanted the power steering and the 5 lug set up.

I think his problem isn't the strut tops but the fact the EA82 crossmember has different spacing between control arm mounts. I have no idea if the XT6 is any different again.

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well, I was a little curious about this...so I did some research. Google FTW!

 

looks like wheel hop is caused either by insufficient dampening, too much unsprung weight, or engine/tranny movement.

 

well, since I doubt you added much weight to the control arm when you lengthened it....I'm going to ignore that one.

 

but how are your struts? and are you running a pitch stopper? how about the engine and tranny mounts?

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Ok i checked the radius rods. They are tight.

 

I did notice that if I turn the wheels they shift a little backwards. I have to get a friend to turn the wheels while I look underneath. I also noticed that the camber when turning left is /--|. Which is the opposite way that it's suppose to be. my OBS is like this \--|.

 

I was not able to mount the sway bar b/c I had to drop the exhaust and I didn't have time to do that.

 

I am running Impreza FWD axles to they are the right length.

 

I am using a 1 inch square tube for a pitch stopper on the EJ motor.

 

struts are 2002 OBS front struts.

 

Tranny mounts are crappy EA81 mounts. I am looking into working up rear brace for the tranny to give it more support.

 

I am also going to jack up the front end and see if there is some movement in the control arms.

 

Will keep everyone posted. I have to clean out my garage b/c there's a pool of gear oil that needs to be wiped up.

 

BW

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When you turn left you want your right wheels to have negative camber... Old subarus, and possibly the newer ones, do it all wrong.. They have stupid amounts of positive camber Although the EA82 did fix their castor so the camber while turning isn't so bad.

Basically you want your shocker leaning backwards slightly and you want your wheel with a tad of negative camber when in a straight line.

Have you checked your down travel? My brothers 83 wagon didn't have problems with wheel spin until we replaced the springs to get it another inch of lift. Then it spun like crazy and it was because he only had about an inch of down travel.

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wheel hippity hoppy GONE.

 

I looked underneath as I was putting the sway bar in and I noticed that the tranny mounts had come a bit loose.

 

Tightened em up, put on the sway bars and woo hooo..

 

I still get a bit of wheel hop/burn out in low range 2wd but hey, I kinda expected it. No wheel hop in high range and no instability at high speed.

:-\ :burnout:

:-\ :burnout:

 

Off to the smog nazi before something else goes wrong.

 

BW

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