s'ko Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 BRAT w/EJ18 w/xt6 engine crossmember 5 lug, 5 inch lift, modified control arms, 225-70-16 tires. No front sway bar. (will be installing that when I get home tonight.) I had some pretty nasty camber problems after I installed a xt6 engine crossmember to my BRAT. I wanted the power steering and the 5 lug set up. Anyways my tires were like this \--/ so I extended my control arms by an inch. It currently sticks out one inch after the radius rod. So I only changed the track and not the geometry of the control arm/radius rod. Any ideas on what happened? Toe seems to be right. Not sure about the caster. Camber is still a bit \--/ but no where near what it was like before. any ideas? BW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted July 27, 2007 Author Share Posted July 27, 2007 just thought of something else. The radius rods were tightened with the old set up. I didn't readjust then with the longer control arms. will loose radius rods give you wheel hop? BW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 Just a guess but maybe you have lost down travle because your DOJ's are over extending? try using EA82 shafts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 you would have to bring hte strut tops inward, have some offset with the strut top lift block. i read the proportion is 7mm inward for every inch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 you would have to bring hte strut tops inward, have some offset with the strut top lift block. i read the proportion is 7mm inward for every inch. after I installed a xt6 engine crossmember to my BRAT. I wanted the power steering and the 5 lug set up. I think his problem isn't the strut tops but the fact the EA82 crossmember has different spacing between control arm mounts. I have no idea if the XT6 is any different again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 well, I was a little curious about this...so I did some research. Google FTW! looks like wheel hop is caused either by insufficient dampening, too much unsprung weight, or engine/tranny movement. well, since I doubt you added much weight to the control arm when you lengthened it....I'm going to ignore that one. but how are your struts? and are you running a pitch stopper? how about the engine and tranny mounts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 About the axle length question. He's running either xt6 or ej axles, I forget which, but they match his front 5 lug stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted July 28, 2007 Author Share Posted July 28, 2007 Ok i checked the radius rods. They are tight. I did notice that if I turn the wheels they shift a little backwards. I have to get a friend to turn the wheels while I look underneath. I also noticed that the camber when turning left is /--|. Which is the opposite way that it's suppose to be. my OBS is like this \--|. I was not able to mount the sway bar b/c I had to drop the exhaust and I didn't have time to do that. I am running Impreza FWD axles to they are the right length. I am using a 1 inch square tube for a pitch stopper on the EJ motor. struts are 2002 OBS front struts. Tranny mounts are crappy EA81 mounts. I am looking into working up rear brace for the tranny to give it more support. I am also going to jack up the front end and see if there is some movement in the control arms. Will keep everyone posted. I have to clean out my garage b/c there's a pool of gear oil that needs to be wiped up. BW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 An ea81 auto tranny mount can be made to work for the rear brace. 88Hatchmonster used the stock ea81 ptich stopper in his hatch. IIRC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 When you turn left you want your right wheels to have negative camber... Old subarus, and possibly the newer ones, do it all wrong.. They have stupid amounts of positive camber Although the EA82 did fix their castor so the camber while turning isn't so bad. Basically you want your shocker leaning backwards slightly and you want your wheel with a tad of negative camber when in a straight line. Have you checked your down travel? My brothers 83 wagon didn't have problems with wheel spin until we replaced the springs to get it another inch of lift. Then it spun like crazy and it was because he only had about an inch of down travel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted July 29, 2007 Author Share Posted July 29, 2007 wheel hippity hoppy GONE. I looked underneath as I was putting the sway bar in and I noticed that the tranny mounts had come a bit loose. Tightened em up, put on the sway bars and woo hooo.. I still get a bit of wheel hop/burn out in low range 2wd but hey, I kinda expected it. No wheel hop in high range and no instability at high speed. :-\ :-\ Off to the smog nazi before something else goes wrong. BW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 Awesome.. have fun. I tried getting wheel spin in my FT4wd EJ22 Brat... Didn't work, just lots of clutch smoke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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