Phizinza Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 I am having lots of trouble with one of the R160 3.7 ratio diffs I have getting off the DOJ cups. I've tried the smash it with a huge hammer and that didn't work (I only done it for 15 to 20 mins though, so maybe more?) But is there a better way? I've soaked the stubs in WD40 for a few days and it still didn't help. I also have another diff (R160 3.9 ratio) I am pulling down so I can get an auto locker re engineered to fit.. Problem I am having is I cannot get the stub shafts off.. I think I've just screwed the bolts in the stubs as I used a tight fitting long skinny hex socket (5/16ths I believe, had to hammer it a little to get it all the way on) and used a impact air gun. Now the socket just goes around on the bolts. Anyone know what tool I need to get these off (another diff now obviouslly as this on is screwed now.)? Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 I don't know what penitrating oil selection you have availible down under. But wd40 is outdated these days. I swear to either PB Blast or Sea Foam Deepcreap. Either can de-weld rust-welded bolts in a matter of minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted July 28, 2007 Author Share Posted July 28, 2007 I don't know what penitrating oil selection you have availible down under. But wd40 is outdated these days. I swear to either PB Blast or Sea Foam Deepcreap. Either can de-weld rust-welded bolts in a matter of minutes. I think you can buy PB here, but I'm pretty sure I've only seen it once.. And I'm not sure where that was.. For the other, only ever heard of it on American sites. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted July 29, 2007 Author Share Posted July 29, 2007 Anymore ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik litchy Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 I don't know what penitrating oil selection you have availible down under. But wd40 is outdated these days. I swear to either PB Blast or Sea Foam Deepcreap. Either can de-weld rust-welded bolts in a matter of minutes. kroil is far far superior to pb blaster, smells better too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik litchy Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 Anymore ideas? heat them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 kroil is far far superior to pb blaster, smells better too Where do you find this. I haven't noticed it around here. And of my two the sea foam is gretched smelling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik litchy Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 Where do you find this. I haven't noticed it around here. And of my two the sea foam is gretched smelling. i dont know its actually hard to find here too but truly the best ive ever used http://www.kanolabs.com/ good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 It is odd I haven't seen it. Their place is only a few hours away from me... Might have to order some the next time I know I'm getting into trouble spots just to try it... Thanks!!! I'm always up for trying new stuff:grin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted July 29, 2007 Author Share Posted July 29, 2007 heat them? I haven't done that yet because I didn't want to ruin the seals.. But I'll probably be getting new seals if I install a diff locker anyhow. So maybe I'll give that a go. What about the stub axles? is it just a size 8mm hex? Or is it some other design? Any special tool I need for it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 I've heated them numerous times. it's hard on the seals, but it'll get 'em of for sure. one particular axle was soooo difficult, I ended up going to a buddies house, and we used the oxy/acetylene torch on it, got it red hot, and then hit it with the air hammer.....it came off eventually. the diff stubs have an E10 torx head. and obviously you need a deep offset socket. Snap-on makes one.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted July 30, 2007 Author Share Posted July 30, 2007 the diff stubs have an E10 torx head. and obviously you need a deep offset socket. Snap-on makes one.... Awesome.. I'll look at that tomorrow at a tool shop.. Guess I'll just have to buy some new seals and see what I can do with one of these diffs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted August 1, 2007 Author Share Posted August 1, 2007 the diff stubs have an E10 torx head. and obviously you need a deep offset socket. Snap-on makes one.... I've looked at the snap-on austrailan site and they only have the E10 in 1/4" drive.. Is that going to be strong enough? I rounded one of them off using a 8mm deep socket and an air rattle gun. Took quite some time before it rounded off and it was still tight.. Kinda thinking a 1/4" will just twist off with the pressure I need..Just found a universal joint 3/8" E10 socket... gonna have to measure and see if that will fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted August 4, 2007 Author Share Posted August 4, 2007 Just cos I'm persistant.... What does people think about a 1/4" drive for undoing these E10 bolts on the stub shafts? And any other ideas for getting the cups off without heat that will damage the seals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joostvdw Posted August 4, 2007 Share Posted August 4, 2007 Just cos I'm persistant.... What does people think about a 1/4" drive for undoing these E10 bolts on the stub shafts? And any other ideas for getting the cups off without heat that will damage the seals? if you are planning on replacing the stub shaft on the diff anyway, you could always use your trusty grinder I would think the cups are fairly tough though, so keep your discs handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted August 5, 2007 Author Share Posted August 5, 2007 I need to pull the diff apart and be able to install a new center into it. (I.E. Diff locker) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 5, 2007 Share Posted August 5, 2007 yep, the 1/4" drive one is what I have.....removed at least 6 stubs with this same socket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted August 5, 2007 Author Share Posted August 5, 2007 Awesome.. I'll order one soon.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyB0y Posted August 5, 2007 Share Posted August 5, 2007 kroil is far far superior to pb blaster, smells better too Yeah, but here's what's REALLY important .. does it kill the hornets buzzing you in the JY on contact like PB??!! Just Kidding:lol: I'll have to see if I can get some of that kroil myself thx! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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