Left cam pulley won't sit still.

[uniberp]

99 2.5 SOHC

During Crank pulley repair/replacement, I removed the timing belt to change the idlers. The cogged one definitely needed replacement.

 

Aside from the timing belt seeming to be one tooth off on the left cam ( at mechanic), and the woodruff key being busted in 2 pieces, and the crank sprocket now requiring the "M8 tap-puller" method, the left cam now will not sit at the timing mark. It springs right or left about 20 degrees, to I assume a full closed position.

 

Is this normal when the crank and right cam pulley are exactly on their marks? Am I a full rotation off or something? Is this a problem with a valve spring?

 

To remove the crank sprocket, I have filed even the slight rise where the crank pulley hogged the keyway slightly. The new pulley fits very nicely. I got the Agency Power stock size pulley. I will be doing the tap tonight.

 

Also, I broke a tang off the crank sprocket in a "levered puller" attempt I made and hit lightly to try to crack the sprocket loose. Considering the tap, the busted tang, the snapped woodruff key, and the fact that it's probably just a sintered gear, I think I just want to replace it.

 

Also, the left cam pulley is metal. The right is plastic. I want to replace the plastic one, but read a nightmare (here) about removing the nut.

 

Nice clean seals, no seepage. I'm going to wait on those.

 

Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

 

mpergielelmhurstil97legato99forester

[porcupine73]

When I did timing belt on '00obw 2.5L sohc, the LH cam was snappy too. As soon as the belt was removed it rotated. The cam can't be off a full rotation; it doesn't matter if the cam is off one full rotation, or 2 or 3 or 600. The crank, of course, must be aligned properly on the mark. Ideally the crank should not be turned while the timing belt is off. Also, the crank makes two rotations per one rotation of the camshaft.

 

New oem cam sprocket isn't that much, maybe $33 or so. Not sure why you have one metal and one plastic. Mine were both metal. Is the '99 a phase II 2.5L?

 

I turned the LH cam back to the proper position, I think I did get it to set there, though it was very touchy.

 

And you probably already know it is the little hash mark on the sprockets to line up, not the arrows.

[uniberp]

When I did timing belt on '00obw 2.5L sohc, the LH cam was snappy too. As soon as the belt was removed it rotated. The cam can't be off a full rotation; it doesn't matter if the cam is off one full rotation, or 2 or 3 or 600. The crank, of course, must be aligned properly on the mark. Ideally the crank should not be turned while the timing belt is off. Also, the crank makes two rotations per one rotation of the camshaft.

 

New oem cam sprocket isn't that much, maybe $33 or so. Not sure why you have one metal and one plastic. Mine were both metal. Is the '99 a phase II 2.5L?

 

I turned the LH cam back to the proper position, I think I did get it to set there, though it was very touchy.

 

And you probably already know it is the little hash mark on the sprockets to line up, not the arrows.

 

Thanks. Phase II. Good runner. IDK why one is plastic. Coud be a new head on that side for all I know. Yep, the hash marks, not the arrows.

 

At this point I think I will order a new crank sprocket, and run it as is. The 'carbon' pulleys do not seem to have bad failure rates.

 

I thought one cam beltmark was supposed to be on the tooth and one on the groove. These are both on the groove. Goodyear belt.

[porcupine73]

Not sure about the tooth/groove thing. That's probably said because the tooth count on one side is something +1/2 tooth. The endwrench articles are pretty good for details. I remember when I did mine with an oem belt I wasn't 100% sure if I had the tooth counts right, but they looked really close, and it turned out to be correct.

[avk]

Have you removed the spark plugs? This always helps. Also, hold the belt to the sprocket with

one or two small, soft-jawed spring clamps.

I have to say that reading these stories makes one think that you'd be better off driving on

an "overdue" factory belt for a while, till you can DIY, rather than taking it to a mechanic.

[uniberp]

Have you removed the spark plugs? This always helps. Also, hold the belt to the sprocket with

one or two small, soft-jawed spring clamps.

I have to say that reading these stories makes one think that you'd be better off driving on

an "overdue" factory belt for a while, till you can DIY, rather than taking it to a mechanic.

Thanks for the spring clamp tip. The twist is caused by the valve springs, I'm pretty sure, so I don't think the plugs would make a difference turning the cams, but I'll try it. They would in turning the crank, though, which I do very slowly when the cams aren't in synch.