The Dude Abides Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 Im going to try this again. Changed the plugs to ngks and the wires to whatever crappy borg warner my brother bought im going to buy either the ngk wires or the magnacore which one is best for the engine. I sill have terrible hesitation on cold startup. Cleaned the maf and still running on the seafoam tank. IM trying to save up some bucks for some tires mcbrat said he would sell me but i dont want to dump more into this motor if its not going to help ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted August 6, 2007 Author Share Posted August 6, 2007 p,s. im going to replace the cap and rotor as well if i can find them ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 Either choice will be good for the wires. Personal prefference there. Might also look into changing the fuel and air filters as well... Another thing that could probably stand to be cleaned is your iac on the front of the intake manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted August 6, 2007 Author Share Posted August 6, 2007 [===i guess the only prefrence i have is price. where is that located it will get a new fuel filter in a month or so air filter is new. how do you clean whatever your talking about Ben:banana: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 The goldish looking cylender on the driver's side strut tower is the fuel filter. For the iac(idle air control) valve, remove it, two or three bolts, and shoot it with carb/air intake cleaner. Let it dry out and reinstall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted August 6, 2007 Author Share Posted August 6, 2007 no silly i know where the fuel filter is i mean the iac where is that at ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 LoL, sorry... Its on the very front of the intake manifold. Disregard the writing on the pic, it is from General Disorder's spfi conversion write-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 Sounds like a problem with the CTS. Either its bunk, or the wiring to it is bunk. Its the sensor on the T-Stat housing with two wires going into a green plug. Drop it in water, and bring it to boiliing, making sure the resistance changes with the temperature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted August 6, 2007 Author Share Posted August 6, 2007 how in the name of zuses butt am i suspost to take that off ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 Four screws. And probably have to take off your p/s pump. But Mike made a very good point, check out the coolant temp sensor before tinkering with the iac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted August 6, 2007 Author Share Posted August 6, 2007 help me out here im pretty good with cars but i dont have a degree in them. What does cts half to do with the engine. what does a coolent temprature sensor half to doo with lack of power when you jump in a car start it and want to go Ben:grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 help me out here im pretty good with cars but i dont have a degree in them. What does cts half to do with the engine. what does a coolent temprature sensor half to doo with lack of power when you jump in a car start it and want to go Ben:grin: When the engine is cold, the computer needs to see it. You have to run a slightly richer mixture of gasoline on a cold engine as gasoline will condensate on the intake manifold. Pretty much the same purpose as a choke on a carb. My engine had a terrible hesitation when cold. Replaced the CTS with a junkyard one, and it ran fine. Please note, that this sensor is different from the one for the temp gauge in your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 It tells the computer what temp your coolant is at. Which in turn the ecu corrects fuel enrichment to suit the conditons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted August 6, 2007 Author Share Posted August 6, 2007 It tells the computer what temp your coolant is at. Which in turn the ecu corrects fuel enrichment to suit the conditons. can you get one of these new or is it easier to just get a junkyard one ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 you'd be hard pressed to find one at a junk yard around here.... there's only been 2 ea82's come through during the last year or so at Wrench 'n Go. might find some at the other places.... but doubtful. Carney's in ames may have something.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 can you get one of these new or is it easier to just get a junkyard one ben Test your current one before trying to find a replacement. May not be bad. (Mine only failed after 230K miles) To test it, you'll need water, ice, a stove (or hot plate), a thermometer and an ohmmeter. Put it in water of varying temperatures. Measure the resistance across the two terminals. The values should be: 14 deg F : 7 - 11.5 kOhm 68 deg F : 2 - 3 kOhm 122 deg F : 0.7 - 1 kOhm If it checks out, its good. FYI: Brand new replacements can cost upwards $80. If you find yours is bunk, I'd post a wanted in the classifieds of the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted August 6, 2007 Author Share Posted August 6, 2007 humm i think ill replace the other parts first and if it still doesnt work ill go from there but i dont have a therometer or an ohmmeter. Ill clean the one part if i can get to it but ill go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 I dont know about the EA82s but the ER27s CTS seldom goes bad..the wireing does and there is a simple fix for it..hardwire the wires directly to the sensor..the connectors go bad and the wires get corroded .. I replaces about 8 inches of wire and soldered them directly to the CTS..then used heat shrink to hold it all together But my question is...did you have this problem before you cleaned the motor or is it only since you cleaned it? My Loyale has always had a hesitation when cold..never got better never got worse..i just alwasy know to warm it up for a minute or 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted August 6, 2007 Author Share Posted August 6, 2007 its always been like this from what i understand it was like that with my brother when he bought it ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 If it checks out, its good. FYI: Brand new replacements can cost upwards $80. If you find yours is bunk, I'd post a wanted in the classifieds of the board. FYI. The SPFI sensor is expensive($80-90). The MPFI one is way cheaper (17.99 at autozone) Both output in the same range of resistance. And both share the same thread size. I believe that by simply fashioning wiring adapter you could use the MPFI cheap sensor on the SPFI engine. I haven't actually test fitted one. The MPFI sensor has a longer probe, which might interfere with the thermostat, but I doubt it. It's really not good for you're car to run with a bad CTS. You really should test it. You can test it on the car by measuring resistance when it's cold(before you start it), then watching the resistance as the engine temp rises. Use the figures MikeShoup provided. If you don't have a multimeter, go get one. They can be gotten for about 20 bucks or less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobcob Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 Harbor Freight routinely sells a cheap DMM for about $3.00 if there's not a Harbor Freight near you I'd be happy to snap one up at their next sale and mail it to ya! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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