Triple trouble, need answers please

[frag]

96 2.2 L, manual trans.

 

Just as I'm about to replace the clutch and the timing belt (+ all the goodies), I find out I have probably one toast exhaust valve in cyl 2.

Compression readings : 1,3 and 4 at 195 psi, 2 at 120 psi. Adding oil in the no. 2 cyl boost compression to 140 psi, no more. So it's a valve.

Here are the questions for which i would need answers fast from those who know.

CLUTCH:

1) How do I know where to bolt the new pressure plate on the flywheel (which will be resurfaced)? At exactly the same place as the old one? Do I have to presume it's balanced exactly the same way?

2) The two lower bolts holding the trans to the engine (I'm pulling the engien) seem to be non accessible from below (I would have to remove both half shafts to gain access to them). From above, there's no place to fit a ratchet or a torque wrench, only a thin breaker bar and i have but a few degrees of movement on the right side.

Is there something I'm missing? Is there a trick to it?

 

LEFT HEAD (that I have to remove and replace to have the valves in no 2 cyl replaced and regrinded(

3) What do I need beside new valves and a head gasket ? Are there valve seals to replace. O rings? I'm bringing the head to a local machine shop. Never touched an engine head before.

4) Can I reuse the old head bolts or is it better to buy new ones?

5) The engine never overheated. Do I need to have the head resurfaced or do I just replace the gasket?

6) I'm open to any other advice anyone is willing to give me.

 

I'm really eager to have answers to those questions or to be redirected to where I can find them.

Thanks in advance

[nipper]

I dont have all your answers but

 

Pressure plate location doesnt matter on a new pressure plate. Tighten the bolts in a star pettern.

 

Yes you need valve seals, and do both heads not just the one, otherwise its possible to cause the engine to run rough.

 

replace the cam seals main seals, re seal the oil pump, replace the tensioner and idler and belt, new waterpump. Do this all with the engine out its much easier. Put in a set of plugs too. Also a new thermostat.

 

Get the HG only from subaru.`

 

IN aluminum engines you can reuse the bolts.

 

Yes the head needs to be checked by the machine shop. The finish on the nead is extreemly important to a good seal, do what the machine shop recomends. Me i would refinish them.

 

Look into the price of a refinished flywheel vs replacement. Sometimes soobies are touchy about having the flywheel cut. DOnt go cheap on the clutch you will regret it.

 

nipper

[hankosolder2]

96 2.2 L, manual trans.

 

Just as I'm about to replace the clutch and the timing belt (+ all the goodies), I find out I have probably one toast exhaust valve in cyl 2.

Compression readings : 1,3 and 4 at 195 psi, 2 at 120 psi. Adding oil in the no. 2 cyl boost compression to 140 psi, no more. So it's a valve.

Here are the questions for which i would need answers fast from those who know.

CLUTCH:

1) How do I know where to bolt the new pressure plate on the flywheel (which will be resurfaced)? At exactly the same place as the old one? Do I have to presume it's balanced exactly the same way?

2) The two lower bolts holding the trans to the engine (I'm pulling the engien) seem to be non accessible from below (I would have to remove both half shafts to gain access to them). From above, there's no place to fit a ratchet or a torque wrench, only a thin breaker bar and i have but a few degrees of movement on the right side.

Is there something I'm missing? Is there a trick to it?

 

Thanks in advance

 

The lower bolts holding the trans to the engine are in fact studs with nuts on them. Sometimes the studs like to back out as you're loosening the nuts. You can back the stud out as far as you can, then see if you can grip the stud with a vice grip and seperate the nut from the stud, screw the stud back in and just remove the nut. The studs help guide the engine and trans back together when you're mating everything back up.

 

There are locating pins on the flywheel for the pressure plate. It will only go on one way, and since it's new, it wouldn't matter anyway.

 

Have the machine shop check the head for flatness when they're doing the valve, clean the block surface thouroughly and you're probably good to go.

 

 

Nathan

[frag]

Thanks to both of you.

Another question : For the time being, the valve seems to be slightly damaged (140 psi compression and a light shake of the engine at idle). If I were to postpone the repair, how long (miles) can I drive the car like this (drives perfect except for the shake at idle) before the valve seat become impossible to regrind?

Thanks in advance.

[nipper]

What are thge other numbers? do you have wet and dry numbers? Throw on a cacum gauge and tell us how much the needle is deflecting then we can tell you more.

 

If the valve is burnt just drive it. If its bent (which i doubt) it can damage the seat.

 

 

nipper

[frag]

What are thge other numbers? do you have wet and dry numbers? Throw on a cacum gauge and tell us how much the needle is deflecting then we can tell you more.

 

If the valve is burnt just drive it. If its bent (which i doubt) it can damage the seat.

 

 

nipper

 

Dry numbers: 1, 3 and 4 = 195 psi ; 2 = 120 psi

Wet number for cyl no 2 = 140 psi.

I was thinking that driving with even a moderately burnt valve might also burn the seat (probably that has already happened) and I wanted to know if it were possible for that to progress so far as to prevent repair (regrinding) of the seat.

I have no reason to think the valve is bent.

Nipper, what would a vac reading tell me that a compression reading has'nt already? Just asking.

Thanks.