carfreak85 Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 I'm fed up and confused with my wagon. I have had a slow overheating problem for the last few months, not getting any worse and not making the car undriveable, but obnoxious none the less. As I drive, the temp gauge will begin to climb past it's old level (dead solid at five bars on the digi dash) and would overheat if I didn't turn on the heater. If I turn on the heater and drive around the car will gradually cool off and return to normal until the next hill or the next time I get on it. I have a new water pump, all new heater/turbo coolant hoses, rad hoses, etc. No leaks besides the radiator overflow when she does get hot and there is no water vapor coming out of the exhaust. It didn't get any better after I ran a bottle of radiator flush through and back flushed the system today. No oil in water or vise versa. Gets hot on the freeway too, and oil temps gradually climb to 250+ *F. The car gets hot more quickly in the daytime compared to night driving. So what do you all think it could be? When I had the heads rebuilt the shop said I had a minor crack between the valves but that it wasn't something to worry about (Sube shop in South sound area) and I have only once or twice had it in the red on the gauge. Could this crack have enlarged and allow exhaust gas to super heat my coolant? Blown headgasket? Super clogged radiator? Things that I have changed since it began to over heat: header, downpipe, exhaust, chopped air box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 has the radiator ever been replaced? If not, I suspect that's the most likely problem. http://www.radiatorbarn.com/s7.asp?ac=Y&year=1991&make=SUBARU&model=LOYALE&submodel=ALL+MODELS&engine_size=H4%2C1.8L For $123, you can get a dual row radiator shipped. A friend has this radiator in his 85 turbo, and it works great. He just has the mechanical fan installed, with no shroud even! -Dave Oh yea, I seem to recall a problem with some cars with digi-dash's... with the headlights on, the temp gauge would climb very high (erroneously). The above mentioned car has this problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 It's the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 the ea81 digidash is the one with the non trustworthy temperature gauge, but that doesn't mean this is a gauge malfunction. Don't presume that, BUT it is a very real possibility. By the way, how many bars does that digidash have, total? my 87 (TOTALLY different) has ten bars, the top two are red, and it normally runs at three (four if hot and AC on) An aftermarket temp gauge is typically recommended for peace of mind, but its your car. I'll be brief: check the radiator for cool spots with your hand when its hot. make sure a thorough degreasing wouldnt help it make sure your fans are working make sure there is no fin rot. If all that checks out, make sure there arent any steam leaks.. a cheapo laser pointer can help detect steam that you might not be able to see otherwise. Steam leaks are most often found on upper radiator hoses, and other rubber near the TOP of the system, but can be anywhere. You could also try removing the thermostat and flushing your block out with a garden hose, but if ALL of the above checks out, then sounds like radiator time even though the "cool spot" test was passed and the coils are intact and clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RONAN Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 . I had a similar problem once that turned out to be the clutch fan. Rare but it can happen. Replace the radiator with a 2 row. Problem will go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 the ea81 digidash is the one with the non trustworthy temperature gauge, but that doesn't mean this is a gauge malfunction. I have yet to have a subaru digidash temp gauge of any year function correctly and consistently. First thing I would do is install an aftermarket gauge somewhere. Second thing I would do is install a new radiator. You have already replaced pretty much everything else. Make it a clean sweep. Your wagon will thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Another vote for the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy FitzGibbon Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 I had the same problem on an 86 4Runner. It turned out to be the fan clutch. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 I've been upgrading to 2-rows in all my cars for the past couple years, and I would definitely start here with your turbo car. But I suspect something else may be going on too. The fans were mentioned a couple times, and I would take a good look at those. A small leak may also be a possible - and hard to detect in such a hot environment. If nothing else falls out after replacing the rad, and you are still running hot, I would have the coolant system pressure-checked professionally. That's really the only way to pinpoint the problem after ruling out these other items. Things go south pretty quickly after overheating, and it's possible that the heads have been damaged as a result of the radiator problem - and are now the primary source of your overheating. good luck, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tcat55371 Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 I would check the clutch fan also. I just went thru the samething with my XT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Its the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 I have been having the same problem in my n/a ea81 lately. It only does it if the temp outside is higher than the mid 70's. I have tracked it to the radiator. And I'm waiting on the replacement to come. So yeah, another vote for the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 I have yet to have a subaru digidash temp gauge of any year function correctly and consistently. In my 87 I have yet to encounter any evidence of improper function; the only oddity I found was that my temp tended to RISE if I flipped the heater on during an overheat event to help it cope.. BUT I am about 99% positive that my heater core is cloggggggggged bigtime. Before I had a rad hose, then replaced the radiator then a water pump blow, and still wound up having headgaskets go bad... my digidash read a consistent three bars when hot, steady, ALL the time. SINCE the headgaskets, I see four bars on occasion when I combine a hot day, with any of the following: AC on, highway travel, passenger in car. That last one only happened once, and as soon as the sun went down it was back to three. Granted, I have no outside verifiable proof of accuracy.. which questions the consistency of its function, but consistency my digidash has. Bear in mind that I do have this sucker grounded sixteen ways to sunday, everything EXCEPT a direct dashboard to electrical system ground, and the ground wire some of us need to add to the wiper motor (I DO need this one still, heh) Also, body rust notwithstanding, the battery cables and fusible links are the only electrical connections of any kind that have EVER had any visible crud on them. I agree with most, I think its the radiator; I just like to play devil's advocate so that everyone knows what they're getting into. Come to think of it, I wonder if the Hayne's people are hiring.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted August 9, 2007 Author Share Posted August 9, 2007 Does anyone have a favorite brand of radiator? I have the water temp gauge installed, but not hooked up. I think that is the next project along with the radiator. Maybe I could have a shop braze a bung for the water temp sensor!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 Does anyone have a favorite brand of radiator? I have the water temp gauge installed, but not hooked up. I think that is the next project along with the radiator. Maybe I could have a shop braze a bung for the water temp sensor!! "Modine" branded radiators seem to be pretty good. The one brand I'd avoid is "Ready Rad". The problem with the radiator market is that the brand names mean very little anymore. The same imported rads can be had from a variety of sources. Sometimes the only difference is the warranty - which is usually worthless anyway. I've had decent luck with the ones they carry at collision parts suppliers. These are generally wholesalers, but will sell to you once you establish a relationship. They are usually cheaper too (right around $100). good luck, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NocturneVoyager Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 I think that may be the problem with my XT as well, so it's off to get a radiator and thermostat for it. I just hope that solves the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom63050 Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 It might well be the thermostat. Maybe it's stuck partially open. Make sure you have one from the dealer, not a Stant or something else. If you do replace the rad, that'd be a good time to do the t-stat anyway, along with hoses, especially those little ones people tend to not think about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NocturneVoyager Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 So only a dealer T-stat? Stant ones are crud or what? Is the price difference that much? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 So only a dealer T-stat? Stant ones are crud or what? Is the price difference that much? Not sure what the price difference is. But yeah - Tstat is one of those things that should be dealer only. The rest seem to have an unacceptably high failure rate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 So only a dealer T-stat? Stant ones are crud or what? Is the price difference that much? About the same as buying one from autozone, or whatever chain you got. I got an OEM thermostat and gasket for $8 tax and all. I was very pleased with it, the gaskets are self sealing so that helps too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 Does anyone have a favorite brand of radiator? I have the water temp gauge installed, but not hooked up. I think that is the next project along with the radiator. Maybe I could have a shop braze a bung for the water temp sensor!! I have bought the last three radiators I've used on our family collection of old cars from Spokane Auto Wrecking. They are new, unknown brand, single core and sell for about $100 shipped to my door via UPS. They have all fit well and every one cured the overheating problem we had and are still continuing to work in the cars that we still own. Somewhere in my posts I have an 800# for them, but you can google them if you like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted August 13, 2007 Author Share Posted August 13, 2007 10-4 on the Tstat. Already put a new OEM one in and it didn't help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 I bought my last EA82 radiator on eBay of all places. Again, unknown brand, but it only ran me $60. It works great. I've got two from these people: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230159648838 I've got two different versions from these guys though, one had plastic end tanks, and the other had metal end tanks. Both work great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted August 21, 2007 Author Share Posted August 21, 2007 Do any of these sypmtoms point toward a blown headgasket or does it sound more like the radiator might be the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misledxcracker Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 Radiator. Radiator. Radiator! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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