SoobGoob Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 can i get a part list for a HG job on a ej22t from someone? also something i might possibly need to check for with blown HG considering its a closed deck block so it was overheated pretty bad. so cracks warps pressure test... thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobGoob Posted August 9, 2007 Author Share Posted August 9, 2007 bump, common now i know someone knows! i wanna get this t leg on the road Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 You're looking at the same part list for the n/a ej22. Just with the gaskets for the up/downpipes. And the hoses for oil and antifreeze to the turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 can i get a part list for a HG job on a ej22t from someone? also something i might possibly need to check for with blown HG considering its a closed deck block so it was overheated pretty bad. so cracks warps pressure test... thanks! define pretty bad. You will need to do an oilchange also once its all together. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobGoob Posted August 10, 2007 Author Share Posted August 10, 2007 haha yes i have done head gaskets before but on ea82's so cam tower o rings, intake manifold gaskets exhaust manifold gaskets, head gaskets, does that sound right? and is there a way to lock the crank so i can take the bolt out of the drive pully? without buying the special tool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobGoob Posted August 10, 2007 Author Share Posted August 10, 2007 alsohow do i take the exhaust off??? i cant find the bolts. do i have to remove the heat sheild?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted August 11, 2007 Share Posted August 11, 2007 Yep, that cruddy old, probably rusted together heat shielding has to come off... The bolts were so badly rusted that I had to cut it all off after I pulled the motor for mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 and is there a way to lock the crank so i can take the bolt out of the drive pully? without buying the special tool Automatic: pry bar in flex plate. Manual: brake adjusting tool in teeth of flywheel or similar flat stock that fits. -OR- 1. remove outer timing cover nearest the battery (LF) 2. roll engine over so left (driver's) cam is set to "9 o'clock" 3. take a 1/2" breaker bar w/ 7/8" 6 point socket, place onto crank pulley 4. set bar, if long enough, in front of battery, or extend reach with a pipe. 5. turn key "on" and "off" really quick 6. BANG! bolt should be loose.... and if you did it fast enough, your timing marks will all be set to their "12 o'clock" positions, or pretty close... NOTE: you might want to unplug coil wire prior to cranking so it doesn't keep on running if you don't turn it off fast enough. AND a 1/2" socket wrench may be more desireable. should the engine bump backwards, the wrench, by design, will just spin instead of flipping up and taking out your A/C line. B.T.D.T. While this obviously is not the "safest" way, it's quick, and does not require much effort on your part. And with some practice, a good time saver. Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobGoob Posted August 12, 2007 Author Share Posted August 12, 2007 sounds very dangerous Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 sounds very dangerous but fun! especially if others are near by when I do it!!! L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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