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I'm probably gonna regret this...


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So, I have a broken timing belt on my 86 4WD wagon and since I don't have the $500 bucks the local fix-it shop wants so I figured I'd have a go at it myself (famous last words huh?). I have been looking at the various posts on this site and I think I can do it. I figure I can get a complete kit for around $160 from Partsbin.com. I have done a few fixes on the old wagon so I'm not completely lost in the engine bay (although that may be severely tested with this project). From what I have read on the various posts I should consider changing the oil and water pumps (and at 201K miles I suppose its not a bad idea).

 

:eek:

 

So...are there any kind souls that have any sage advice for me?

 

Kevin

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My wife has a little Civic 4WD wagon so we have a car and except for Thursdays when she goes to school in Vancouver B.C. the car is usually available. I walk to work so no problem there.

 

I really LOVE working on my car so I'm sure I'll have a blast. I figured out how to install the Stereo and speaker on my own and custom drill some Impreza seats (that I bought form a forum member) for the front seats so I am feeling pretty confident. Luckily the weather seems to be holding.

 

CHARGE!!!

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Its a very simple procedure to replace the belts and tensioners. However, the easiest way to do it, is to remove the radiator to allow more room in there. That's about it. Lack of room is whats going to make it semi difficult if you have larger hands:-p

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best first job on an EA82 there is.

 

if its your first major mechanical experience, its great for that, too.. I had no solo mechanical experience beyond "dads helper" and a few brake jobs, a radiator swap, and similar BS when the T belt on my Geo Storm broke, so I got baptized by a different water pump.. but the belts on my soob were the first job I had to do on this engine, and I had to do it to get the car from my brother..

 

Read miles' writeup, take your time, and you will probably be A okay, and ten time the man you are now when youre done :grin:

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Timing belts were the first major thing I did on my car as well :banana:

 

Before you put the belts back on, I find it's easier to 'pre-spring' the tensioners by moving them to their loosest setting and tightening the bolts to hold them there. Then while you're putting the belts on, you don't have to fight them. Once the belts are on, just loosen the bolts and they'll spring down onto the belt.

 

have fun!

 

-Dave

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like Calebz says - use Miles' method. I did it that way the first time, and it worked fine. Leave the site up on your computer, and you can double check anything you're concerned about anywhere along the line.

 

I was concerned about lining the belts up correctly, but it's actually easier to do than it might seem from reading about it.

 

Go for and and have fun!

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So...are there any kind souls that have any sage advice for me?

 

First job I did on my wagon also. Very pleasant to finish. If you have the luxury take the time and clean up all the parts as you take them off. The front of your engine will look very clean afterwards (and as a bonus you will notice leaks faster).

 

Go ahead and take the radiator out. Not that hard, but worth it. If you don't have A/C working, get the condensor out of there, too. You can reach big tools through the grill area easier on some things. :) Remember the car needs to go into 5th gear high range to try to break the crank pulley bolt, oh and block the tires.

 

And for pesky spinning belt cover bolts... just take an angle grinder to them and start to wear the head off. You won't actually take the head off because the heat will melt the plastic and the bolt will come right out. Replace with a nut & bolt or zip-ties like mine. :grin:

 

I got my timing belt kit off ebay, very good price.

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all you really need are the belts. the tensioners are not necessary unless they are sqaualling or you just want to be that particular or spend the money, especially in a land where rust does not exist.

 

here is what you do: eliminate the timing belt covers ant run the belts totally exposed. keeps oil and crap out of them, and the next time you have to change the belts(and tensioners) it will only take 20 minutes.

 

if that sounds scary search for "open belts" for many anecdotals pro or con

 

also makes easy access for future repairs like oil pump seals and what-not

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Thanks for all the advice...I took a look at the Miles Fox how-to and of course to have advice from "the man" himself is making me feel like I can do this and not end up with the windshield attached to the emergency brake.

 

I was considering going commando as far as the cover goes...so, I'll keep everyone posted as to my progress. As far as taking out the radiator...thats sounding pretty ominous, but it can't be any worse than some things I've faced down in 46 years.

 

:lol:

 

Kevin

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Why aren't all boards this good?

 

Its off to find myself some parts. I was figuring on water and oil pump too (The car has 201K and most of that was BEFORE I bought it). Anything I'm forgetting? My father-in-law (an ex mechanic suggested a new valve cover gasket). I also have a new XT6 front sway bar courtesy of Baccaruda so I figured I may as well do that too.

 

One final thing...can I drive it as is? I'd like to move it to a better spot to work on it as its sitting in the alley next to my apt. right now. It actually moves but it sure kicks up a fuss.

 

INTO THE BREACH!

 

Kevin

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Should be able to move it ok.

The oil pump has 5 bolts if I remember correctly. It can be a pain to remove sometimes. If you are replacing the seal on the shaft, remove the nut holding the pulley before taking off the belt. Its much easier then.

When removing the pump, you need to rotate it some while rocking it back and forth. Sometimes they are heat sealed onto the block and may take some force to get it to move initially.

Valve cover gaskets are a good idea, but the bolts that hold them on also have rubber bushings. These are only available from the Dealer and they are expensive. I think $6ea. So 4 for one side and 5 for the other.

If you are doing cam seals and the o-rings too, the backside timing covers have to come off also. Then you can remove the cam end housing. The whole cam will want to come out when you pull on it, so tap it back in when pulling the housing off. When you get the housing off, the seal replacement is a peice of cake. Turn it over and punch out the old seal with the crank bolt. The new seal will almost push in by hand. Then install the o-ring and put it all back together.

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I dunno what your time frame is, but this is a good opportunity clean up your engine bay - especially if you decide to go "naked" with your timing belt covers (highly recommended)

Why bother? Well, you'll be able to quickly identify leaks and other maintenance items with a clean bay. And since so many critcal components are located in the timing belt area, eliminating the covers, and frequent engine cleaning will enable you to better monitor these major systems. Another benefit as Fox mentioned, is that you won't be as pressed about replacing things like the water pump or belts pro-actively. You can wait until they completely wear out, and not tie up your $$ in newer parts.

If you decide to do this, remove the skid plate and smaller underside pans. You may also want to remove the inner wheel well panels for even better access to the lower areas. Foamy engine degreaser works well. Just warm up the car, spray it on, let it sit, then wash it off. You can do a second go-round after removing the rad and fans and timing belt covers. After your initial cleaning, you do this occasionally to keep things clean and look for new problems.

good luck with the belts, and with your new Sube...

John

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As far as taking out the radiator...thats sounding pretty ominous, but it can't be any worse than some things I've faced down in 46 years.

Radiator is eaaaaasy. Might find some hose that needs replaced, but that's a good thing to find it then instead of on the highway.

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Valve cover gaskets are a good idea, but the bolts that hold them on also have rubber bushings. These are only available from the Dealer and they are expensive. I think $6ea. So 4 for one side and 5 for the other.

 

I've bought valve cover gasket sets that included these rubber washers. Cheap, 19.99. Although I think the best bet anymore is to buy the cheapest Ebay Headgasket set you can find. 25-35 bucks. You won't want to use the Intake gaskets or the headgaskets. But all the rest of the stuff is included. Valve cover gaskets and washers, as well as the Cam o-rings and seals, and an extra set of exhaust gaskets too.

 

The "full reseal" sets include the oilpump, F.mainseal, and Oil pan gaskets as well.

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