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Foglight button dash light: tried to replace now none work!


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Originally the dash light on the Foglight button didnt' work (other two did), so I popped out the portion of the dash to get to the button. Pulled the button out and removed the bulb to compare at Radio Shack. They didn't have a bulb that would work so instead I took the bulb from the Defrost button and swapped it with the Foglight bulb (don't ever use that button- plus it's more hidden by the steering wheel than the others are).

 

Now NONE of the buttons illuminate when the dash lights are on!!!

What the hell happened!!! I went from having two to none. :banghead:

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Hm...perhaps a bulb in the dash is worth two in the blister package.
...yeah, if they can be found!

My only stop so far has been Radio Shack and they didn't have a match, so like I said I put the bulbs back in and now none of them work.

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But did you take the bulb out of the plastic socket?

 

No, I didn't take it out of the socket. That was too much trouble at the time- instead I swapped the bulbs with one from the other switch.

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I had a similar situation years ago on an older Subie, and what I surmised happened is that as the bulbs age when one bulb burns out it ups the juice that the others on the same circuit get and they go soon afterwards. None of these bulbs have very big filaments so I'm guessing that they are pretty vulnerable to voltage/amperage fluctuations as they age. I'll bet that if you replaced all of them (on those 3 switches) at the same time with new ones that you'd no longer have problems. This is what I had to do with my old 97 OBW and I had no more burn outs.

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I had a similar situation years ago on an older Subie, and what I surmised happened is that as the bulbs age when one bulb burns out it ups the juice that the others on the same circuit get and they go soon afterwards. None of these bulbs have very big filaments so I'm guessing that they are pretty vulnerable to voltage/amperage fluctuations as they age. I'll bet that if you replaced all of them (on those 3 switches) at the same time with new ones that you'd no longer have problems. This is what I had to do with my old 97 OBW and I had no more burn outs.

 

Where'd you get the bulbs from?

I need the ones with the little plastic phillips-notched end cap.

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Ok. The cat is on the prowl and going after light problems.

 

211 and Grossgary, I need to know what vehicles you have. 211, I assume you have a '00 OBW. Grossgary, what do your parents have?

 

Just as a start I would check the fuses for any blown ones.

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You can get assembled bulbs only from a dealer. But the bulb itself, a miniature type with wire leads,

can be replaced with a standard type 7219 which what they have at RadioShack.

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Ok. The cat is on the prowl and going after light problems.

 

211 and Grossgary, I need to know what vehicles you have. 211, I assume you have a '00 OBW. Grossgary, what do your parents have?

 

Just as a start I would check the fuses for any blown ones.

I checked all the fuses in the fuse block, none are blown, unless there's a hidden fuse someplace else :confused:.

The orange "switch is on" light still lights up on all three switches.

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The dash lights should have 12 volt power going to one side of them. Do you have voltage getting to them? The dimmer control module controls the return side of the light circuit and the dimmer control ties to the module. Check for power getting to the dimmer control also.

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Well I was confused also. I thought we were talking about the the dash lights, not the "switch is on" lights. I wasn't paying close enough attention I guess.

 

Now that I'm on the right page here I think that the post from GBHRPS brings up is a valid point. By swapping the bulbs you may have damaged the good one. These bulbs are pretty delicate. But if I am understanding correctly you are saying there are other switch bulbs not working also, that you didn't swap, correct? Lets first make sure that the light you put in as a replacement is ok still. You can use a ohmmeter to measure the bulb filament and see if it is good. You can check the power to the bulb by placing your meter across the white/black and yellow/black wires going to the fog light switch. The w/b wire should have power on it with reference to ground.

 

One thing to note. It looks like the headlight switch needs to be in the low beam position for the fog switch light to be turned on.

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Well I was confused also. I thought we were talking about the the dash lights, not the "switch is on" lights. I wasn't paying close enough attention I guess.

 

No, no, we ARE talking about the dash lights- the backlight, illumination light, whatever you want to call it.

I as saying earlier that the "switch is on" lights seem to work in all three switches.

 

I'll do a voltage check later to see if there's any juice (reroofing my house this weekend)

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  • 3 years later...

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