More on Torque Bind

[porcupine73]

doat! Yah that's a lot of cash to spend! Well let's suppose, best case scenario, your code is indeed for the duty C, you can pick that up for probably around $100 or so new, and maybe examine or have someone take a look at your transfer clutch to see if it needs any grinding, etc., then aside from some time on your part you might not be out more than a couple hundred $.

[nipper]

a fool and his money. Sometime you have to pay a professional to repair what you can't, there is nothing foolish or wasteful about it.

 

All i said was to diagnose it. nothing about fixing it.

 

And actually its about 850.00. The logic behind the age of the car is silly. Is fomeone said you needed four tires at 500-600 bucks do you junk the car?

 

 

Good luck whatever you choose to do.

 

 

nipper

[Bigbusa]

nipper I wasnt being disrespectful. I was just saying that I can't spend that kind of money on my old car.

 

I'm a cheapskate. That's why I own an old subaru.

[idosubaru]

i've never been able to get the AT code to flash the few times i tried. i think i forgot to scratch my armpits somewhere in the sequence

 

you have torque bind?

 

if it goes away with the FWD fuse installed then the Duty C is probably fine and the clutches are shot.

 

if it doesn't go away with the FWD fuse then the solenoid is probably shot.

 

you can probably pull a rear extension housing unit from a junk trans (bad diff, bad trans, etc) or get one from someone on here for cheap too. i had one i would have sold for cheap if a friend of mine didn't come to me with torque bind a week ago.

 

i just pulled the rear extension housing i have. it's REALLY easy, took about 15 minutes with the trans on my floor and it doesn't have to come out of the car to do it. so most of the time will be set up, crawling under the car, removing the exhaust/driveshaft and just complaining about working on your back.

 

have you made sure all your tires match and the fluid has been changed recnetly? new fluid can sometimes free them up...less likely the longer it's been hosed though.

 

as for needing struts. if you want to go cheap, just buy a set of used struts. it's actually not that hard to find a good set for not much money, save yourself a couple hundred bucks. then you can buy the entire assembly, making swapping them much quicker too rather than disassembling the struts/coils.

 

a friend of mine needed new struts in his Legacy (sagging rear), he bought a complete set from a good doobie on here for $100 or something. great ride now and he got a lift out of it too (being outback struts).

Edited March 13, 2009 by grossgary

[2.5GL]

I never remember which hole to stick the ground wire in, BUT... you plug it in with the key off and shifter in drive. Turn key on (don't start) shift slowly from D - 3 - 2 - 1, press accelerator to the floor (2 seconds), release to half throttle (2 seconds), and then you release the pedal. Code from the AT TEMP light will flash. This is for a current problem. To check history of codes, start at 1 and go to D with the same sequence of steps.

^^^^ is for 95 - 99 cars (give or take)

 

90-94 requires the same sequence, however you need to start with the "manual" button on, shift to the next gear, turn manual off, shift, turn manual on, shift, turn manual off.

 

00-> requires same, except: When you start at "D" go down to "1" back to "2" then to "1" again. (D-3-2-1-2-1) OR (1-2-3-D-3-D).

 

Let me know if it works I may have to double check these...

 

LJ

[Newsubaruser]

Hey Guys I had to revive this old thread as it took ages to find but I'm so glad to have finally found it.

I have just bought a 96 auto 2.5L Legacy Grandwagon (my 1st subaru) from an online auction site and wondered why I got it so cheap, I was sure I would be outbid at $1500 but maybe they knew. It's very tidy and when It arrived yesterday I was stoked. However upon taking it on the test drive I suffered the torque bind issue that I have now read about in so many threads over the last 2 days.

I have been searching/reading the forum and have been able to work out that my duty c solenoid is shot (also known as the transfer solenoid as I found after ringing subtech in auckland http://www.subtech.co.nz/)

Yes my power light flashed 16 times at startup, installing the FWD fuse did nothing and I got the dreaded code 24 after doing the shift sequence.

So it looks like I'll be pulling off the rear transfer housing and doing the work in the very near future. I will be replacing the solenoid and clutch plates at the same time as well as necessary seals etc.

Lewis those pics are amazing and explain a hell of a lot that words just couldn't and to everyone that has contributed to this forum THANKS

I do have a couple of questions that I would like to ask.

 

1. Do the inside teeth on the clutch plates fit snugly into the drive hub (when hub is new) and if so, wont grinding it down cause them to spin/slop inside the grove causing further wear and problems down the track? (I really hope my hub is not that worn). If this is the case I might see if I can get a new hub.

 

2. How bad does the output shaft area need to get before you have to replace the housing? Is this also accompanied by ATF leaking from the rear of the case around the shaft? I don't think I have any leaking but it would be good to know if that was a sign of excessive wear.

 

Also does anyone have any more advice on this job or maybe a walkthrough describing steps (like in a service manual) and is there anything else I should look at / do after doing this to prolong the life of the drivetrain after the previous owners drove it for god knows how long like this.

[johnceggleston]

 

2. How bad does the output shaft area need to get before you have to replace the housing? Is this also accompanied by ATF leaking from the rear of the case around the shaft? I don't think I have any leaking but it would be good to know if that was a sign of excessive wear.

 

 

the bearing on the out put shaft fits into a machined seat. it is not, at least the 2 i've handled weren't, is not hard to remove. slides right out. but as long as there is plenty of fluid / oil for the bearing and the outer race of the bearing is not spinning in the case then you shouldn't have a problem. i would think the seal would be a more likely weak point, if it is not leaking you should be ok.

[Newsubaruser]

Thanks John, I will make sure that I remove this bearing and inspect for any roughness/binding and replace if necessary and check the seal as well.

 

Should be doing the pulldown sometime next week and we'll see how it all goes.

 

I have downloaded a service manual for my model so I should be ok procedure wise but would still like an answer to Q1 above if anyone has an idea.

 

Hoping this will be a good car once I get this sorted.

[2.5GL]

Grinding the teeth down will not cause any noticeable "slop". If it was noticeable, it would be between forward and reverse. The deep groves are from driving forward and the clutches stick in the grooves. Remove them and binding stops. (Given everything else is order.)

Edited November 1, 2010 by 2.5GL
Sp.

[Newsubaruser]

Thanks Lewis

 

I'm looking forward to getting into this as everything else on the car is fine.

 

I might even take some pics as I'm working and post them up here when I'm done.

 

Here's hoping everything goes well and I get some good miles out of the old girl.

 

Hey I might even be converted from holden yet

 

Steve

[Newsubaruser]

Just an update for anyone reading.

I have successfully fixed the torque binding issue on my car.

I didn't take any pics as a they would have only showed what has been posted before.

My clutch drum had indentations just like in the pics so I spent hours filing it by hand but it came up sweet.

My problem came about because I was sent the wrong transfer clutch pack, 50 tooth instead of 24 tooth, and the current one was completely fried. So I had to put the repair on hold for a week. During this time the shop had to push my car in and out for a week and the spring fell out and got lost. I was able to pull a spare spring out of another Subaru gearbox that was lying around in on of the sheds. This I will have to replace at some stage but at least my car is now running fine.

No more flashing power light or torque binding. yippee!

[Olnick]

Congrats Subaruser. That's gotta' be a great feeling!

[johnceggleston]

My clutch drum had indentations just like in the pics so I spent hours filing it by hand but it came up sweet.

My problem came about because I was sent the wrong transfer clutch pack, 50 tooth instead of 24 tooth, and the current one was completely fried. So I had to put the repair on hold for a week. No more flashing power light or torque binding. yippee!

besides the indentations, what else did you address while you had it open?? duty-c, clutch discs?

[Lloyd]

My 2011-2.5i W/cvt makes CLUNKING noise when turning L/R from start off. Does not chatter if going straight. Could PROBLEM be in LS DIFFERENTIAL? WHATE IS GR FOR THIS DIFFERENTIAL.