Bucky92 Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 I think my Diff is clunkin in Rocky...used to clunk alittle going into reverse and turning ( more like a bad u-joint clunk) but since coming back from the Dragon its been worse...louder in reverse while turning AND also forward in tight slow speed turns....Its not an axle and when it does clunk you can feel it through the entire car...I have no choice but to drive it for at least the next 2-3 weeks for my new job.Its a governement job with armed guards everywhere and everything has to be 100% legal there...so no sneaking in one of the other 2 once in awhile when needed.Once I start getting a paycheck again I am getting the Imp legal and will start running that one. You think Rock will be OK to run for a few weeks like this??..He will be doing almost 100miles a day r/t and we all know his track record sucks..and I will be on 90 day probation and cant risk loosing this new job ( start today ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reveeen Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 If, in fact, it is the final drive (and not a motor mount), there is no telling how far it will go. Could go 10,000 miles, could go 10 feet, anyone's guess. Sorry, not much help, and not likely what you wanted to hear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 is it like a one time clunk or clunk, clunk, clunk, clunk...etc..??? sounds like the rear diff hanger based on what you're saying but there are other possibilities. there is no real harm in driving it, if that's what it is. if you can get a look at the bushing you'll see a crack through it. i'm not encouraging you or anything, but i will recite my experience. i worked at a government facility before, security clearance, armed gaurds, car searches with dogs and all that nice stuff too. the last thing they were worried about is the legality of cars. i've driven with expired tags, the wrong tag on the wrong car, emissions expired, even bought some and let them sit for a few days before i could get them home, etc. the only problem they gave me was when i tried to tow a car through the gate with my truck that i had bought close to work. my plan was to tow it to work and tow it home after work. they didn't like it and said i needed a special permit. i parked it down the road, walked to work....then used a different entrance gate later. still drove my truck and trailer down there after that too, just used the "other" side entrance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 is it like a one time clunk or clunk, clunk, clunk, clunk...etc..???sounds like the rear diff hanger based on what you're saying but there are other possibilities. there is no real harm in driving it, if that's what it is. if you can get a look at the bushing you'll see a crack through it. This was going to be my guess, right after asking if it was front or rear. But I'm assuming rear because thats the axle you thought was going bad, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted August 13, 2007 Author Share Posted August 13, 2007 If I can get under it to look...we all know its not the safest to do..That is probably what it is...guess its another part I have to look for:-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 not safe? jackstands, blocks, etc? or just drive it up on a huge curb or set of blocks or something high, that's what i'd do if i don't have appropriate jacks available. i don't think you can see it too well, if at all, mounted. you only need to remove 3 nuts to drop the diff. the two in the rear hanger/mustache bar. then the really huge one on the carrier that passes through the bushing you're trying to see. it's a 22mm bolt and a 17mm nut or a 17mm bolt and a 22mm nut, forget which way around it is. either way, put a wrench on one side to hold it and loosen it from the other side. remove those three nuts/bolts and the diff should drop down with the driveshaft and rear axles attached. inspect the rear diff bushing and you can reinstall it without removing the driveshaft/axles. it is quite heavy though and working under it is a little awkward when dealing with all of that weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetangel Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 Hey guys.. i am a "regular" over at Legacygt.com and found a thread pertaining to what I was looking for directing me here. Did a search.. and found this post. I've got a similar problem. Its a 99 Legacy SUS (or Outback Sedan) with about 160K. When hitting a sharp turn (especially a U-turn) the car shudders really badly, like its slipping. It doesnt usually do it on normal small turns, but definitely noticeable on the sharp corners. It feels as if its coming from the front somewhere.. possible drivers side. I took it to a mechanic here in Germany who said its probably the differential. Does this sound like it is a valid diagnosis? Does that mean I'll have to replace the entire thing, or could there be parts of it that are broken or worn? I don't have a clear understanding of the mechanism to be honest so I'm not really sure what the diagnosis means. I'm still learning more about cars, I will say I definitely know more than most girls but I really don't understand how serious or costly this may be. I have to be VERY careful with car stuff here in Germany because I can get ripped off easily. Its happened on several occasions. The dealers here are fairly incompetent.. and they tag every issue to "well its a subaru" .. basically meaning because its not a german built car.. i should just expect it to run like crap. Thanks in advance for any help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 It sounds like torque bind. This is when the center diff is trying to equalize the power to the front wheels at the same time as the rear wheel. They dont turn at the same revolutions when in a sharp turn and the diff tries to. Its quite common, but its usually not that noticable. I would check your tires. If they are of different sizes, this will increase the bind. More so if they are worn and mismatched. New tires will/might reduce most of the torque binding. This query would recieve more answers over in the New Gen forum tho. And welcome to the USMB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetangel Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 Funny you should mention it. I actually took the car to the mechanic to get new tires put on and just asked if he would take a look at what might be causing the shudder. I hope this may help the problem. Ill pick up the car in about an hour. I've reposted in the other area as suggested. Thank you. It sounds like torque bind. This is when the center diff is trying to equalize the power to the front wheels at the same time as the rear wheel. They dont turn at the same revolutions when in a sharp turn and the diff tries to. Its quite common, but its usually not that noticable. I would check your tires. If they are of different sizes, this will increase the bind. More so if they are worn and mismatched. New tires will/might reduce most of the torque binding. This query would recieve more answers over in the New Gen forum tho. And welcome to the USMB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 severe vibrations around sharp turns may also indicate ball joint or tie rod issues. often they will be at certain speeds, or worse at certain speeds and may only happen when turning one way...say left but not right...etc. they should be easy enough to check though. the bad thing is that if it is "diff" related, the front or center diffs are far more costly and labor intensive to deal with. a front diff replacement on this vehicle may mean replacing the entire transmission, that's what i would personally do anyway as it's easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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