samneric Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 Hi all, I'm switching the front axles from my donor Brat to my DD only the damn spring pin got stuck in the axle stub so I ended up thinking I could just leave the inner housing stuck to the gearbox and pull out the driveshaft so I cut the boot clamp off ready.... Anyways, after calming down and looking at it again today, I managed to get the pin out (a size 13/64 punch was $6.99 well spent!) and need to secure the boot back to the inner housing. So I bought a 4" hose clamp (screw type). My question is: will this hold the boot on with all the spinning it has to do or am I better off finding another solution???? I can get another boot kit if need be when I get some more cash... Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyrysc Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 Hi all, I'm switching the front axles from my donor Brat to my DD only the damn spring pin got stuck in the axle stub so I ended up thinking I could just leave the inner housing stuck to the gearbox and pull out the driveshaft so I cut the boot clamp off ready.... Anyways, after calming down and looking at it again today, I managed to get the pin out (a size 13/64 punch was $6.99 well spent!) and need to secure the boot back to the inner housing. So I bought a 4" hose clamp (screw type). My question is: will this hold the boot on with all the spinning it has to do or am I better off finding another solution???? I can get another boot kit if need be when I get some more cash... Steve No problem at all. I did it to my toyota truck and my toyota camry with no ill effects. the truck would not go so fast, but the camry would fly for a 4 banger. The axle actually turns much slower than your wheels since it so close to the center, especially the larger tires you get. besides, some of those clamp thingys that they give you with the kits are an exercise in futility, at least IMHO which is not worth much usually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted August 13, 2007 Author Share Posted August 13, 2007 No problem at all. I did it to my toyota truck and my toyota camry with no ill effects. the truck would not go so fast, but the camry would fly for a 4 banger. The axle actually turns much slower than your wheels since it so close to the center, especially the larger tires you get. besides, some of those clamp thingys that the give you with the kits are an exercise in futility, at least IMHO which is not worth much usually. Cheers! Will get back at it Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 yep, i know lots of people use hose clamps. friends of mine have the tool and "corrrect" cv boot clamps but have problems getting them to work and leaking and find the hose clamps are much better. why they choose to have a "special" clamp for CV boots is beyond me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 yep, i know lots of people use hose clamps. friends of mine have the tool and "corrrect" cv boot clamps but have problems getting them to work and leaking and find the hose clamps are much better. why they choose to have a "special" clamp for CV boots is beyond me. I swear by the crimp tool. Although I have used regular clamps and even zipties before in emergencies. Only problem with hose clamps is A: clearance- On the inner joint it's no problem, but on the outer joint there is no clearance for the screw portion of the clamp, it will hit the knuckle as it spins. B: Balance- Hose clamps have a big extra mass on one side(the screw), not to big a deal but unbalanced is unbalanced. Not the best for drivetrain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 I swear by the crimp tool. Although I have used regular clamps and even zipties before in emergencies. Only problem with hose clamps is A: clearance- On the inner joint it's no problem, but on the outer joint there is no clearance for the screw portion of the clamp, it will hit the knuckle as it spins. B: Balance- Hose clamps have a big extra mass on one side(the screw), not to big a deal but unbalanced is unbalanced. Not the best for drivetrain. I've never had problems, even on the outer joints in the front..... they're so close to the center, the balance issue is extremely minor. it might make your wheel bearings die 1k miles sooner.....but in the grand scheme of things..... ANND, I've never been able to get a real live CV boot clamp tight enough. maybe I'm just special needs, and can't make it work. but a hose clamp is extremely easy to get plenty tight. no worries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virrdog Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 Those special clamps are annoying. I have an inner joint that flings grease onto the hot cat... that's not so bad as my wife complaining about the smell! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamCF Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 I'm constantly having problems with those clamps. Just found that the one I fixed last week came back off. And I bought the tools to get them tight, both the pull and bend kind and the crimp kind. I think the main problem is getting it all clean enough so the clamp wont slip off from the grease. (I thought I did) Thought about a hose clamp but didn't think it would clear on the outside CV joint, which is where I have the most problems. Are there "lower profile" clamps maybe....proly not...? I was just gonna put two new axles in with factory tightened clamps. Looks like I may have to look back into hose clamps. My subie never gets over 55 (most of it's life is spent in lo-range in the dirt) so I don't think balance will be too much of a problem. But the problem is all the dirt getting into my "CO" (constantly opening) joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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