bfdtech Posted August 20, 2007 Share Posted August 20, 2007 Hope maybe someone can help with my problem on my 1990 Loyale. The battery, stop lamp etc lights came one after I exited the freeway. So I thought that the alternator was bad. So I changed the alt and still was getting the lights on the dash. I metered the battery at 11 VDC and the same at the alternator. I had both the battery load tested and the new alternator tested 6 times and both checked out fine. The fusible links seem to have good connections and have continuity. The ground to the alternator is good as well as the body. I get DC voltage at all three wires at the alternator. Is there an external voltage regulator that might need changing. Any help would be great, wife is mad car does not run, haha. Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 20, 2007 Share Posted August 20, 2007 Replace the fusible links, and check the condition of the large white wire from Fusible link block to Alternator and make sure it's not corroded or brittle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfdtech Posted August 21, 2007 Author Share Posted August 21, 2007 Replace the fusible links, and check the condition of the large white wire from Fusible link block to Alternator and make sure it's not corroded or brittle Checked the white wire from alt, good. Fusible links ohm at 0 ohms and 12 vdc on both sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 There most likely is a problem with one of the small wires going to the alternator. Check the voltage on each wire with reference to ground while the engine is running. They should be close to the battery voltage. If one isn't then you need to track that wire and look for a bad connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 Is the instrument panel charge light working? Read somewhere if the bulb is blown the alternator will not charge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfdtech Posted August 21, 2007 Author Share Posted August 21, 2007 Is the instrument panel charge light working? Read somewhere if the bulb is blown the alternator will not charge. Yes lights work, should I get voltage through the light and to the alt in the white w/ red wire to the alt all of the time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 The warning light is supposed to be on when there is a problem with the alternator or it isn't spinning and the key is ON. The circuit provides current to the exciter to get the field coils energized. If the warning light doesn't work then the alternator will not get the needed exciter voltage to start the process. You should see voltages very close to the battery voltage on both leads while the alternator is working. If a lead voltage is low then you need to see why and follow the lead back through the circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfdtech Posted August 21, 2007 Author Share Posted August 21, 2007 Fixed!!!! Pulled alt out that Checker Auto Parts tested as "good" 6 times and took it back. They tested it again twice and it failed both times. I put a Subaru alternator from the junk yard in and it works like a champ. Sounds like Checker's testing machine needs to be tested. Thanks again for everyone's input regarding my problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xoomer Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Fixed!!!! Pulled alt out that Checker Auto Parts tested as "good" 6 times and took it back. They tested it again twice and it failed both times. I put a Subaru alternator from the junk yard in and it works like a champ. Sounds like Checker's testing machine needs to be tested. Thanks again for everyone's input regarding my problem. NEVER TRUST A DURA TESTER, THEY DO NOT TEST FOR LOADS, and in general do not work well! When a customer Comes in to my schucks With a starter or alternator problem I prefer to test it in the car. because then you can see the condition of the engine compartment to offer solutions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 NEVER TRUST A DURA TESTER, THEY DO NOT TEST FOR LOADS, and in general do not work well! When a customer Comes in to my schucks With a starter or alternator problem I prefer to test it in the car. because then you can see the condition of the engine compartment to offer solutions. Old fashioned, crank the car then pull the positive battery cable test, BAD IDEA ON EFI SUBARU!!!! best way to kill your ECU, or so I hear tell. "just sayin'" heh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Fixed!!!! ... I put a Subaru alternator from the junk yard in and it works like a champ. It was the Internal Charge (voltage / Amp) Regulator, it is some sort of Integrated Circuit, welded in a small base board, along with some sort of Diodes (I write "Some Sort" `cos I don`t know exactly the right english Translation, I hope you`ll Understand) I did fix my Subie`s Alts. I spent around L 600.ºº "Lempiras" (our Currency = around $30.ºº US Dollars) in Parts to fix that. (here, used Alts are Expensive). Maybe is Cheaper in the USA to Fix your subie`s old Alt, so you can count with a good Spare one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 This is the problem im having with a 1997 .. so dont feel bad. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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