Lift Kit - vibration - anyone can answer

[nipper]

I just took Blue on a 2 hour high speed run down the Jersey Turnpike. Above 63mph, sometimes there is a vibration in the car. Sometimes its heavy, sometimes its light, sometimes its not there at all. Its not from the brakes/tires/steering. Did have blu up to 80mph and the same thing happened.

 

I am thinking its the carrier bearing/u-joint. I havent been able to look under the car due to this wonderful NY august weather (62 degrees and rain).

 

I sort of remeber reading someplace that someone else had the same problem. The allied lift kit doesnt adjust the height of the carrier bearing (which normally shouldnt be an issue). I also remember reading that it didnt take a lot of spacers (someone just used washers) to cure this problem.

 

What I want to know, is this true or is my mind broken?

 

Also does anyone know the size of those bolts?

 

Lastly if I do need a driveshaft (wouldnt be surprised) wher ein the NY/NJ area I can get one. Junk yards here on Long Island are almost gone.

 

 

nipper

[86BRATMAN]

The bolt head on the carrier bearing should be 14mm. Thats what they've been on the gen1 legacy's I've taken apart.

[nipper]

Any idea on length?

 

 

nipper

[Reveeen]

The bolt head on the carrier bearing should be 14mm

 

Making it a 10mm X 1.25 thread pitch.

[86BRATMAN]

Best I can remember they are about 2" long.

[nipper]

Thank you, thats one part of the equation.

 

nipper

[nipper]

Got under the car today and did some poking around.

 

Anyone who orders a kit from Allied (BTW Albie is a blast to talk to) needs to tell them if its a stick or auto. Autos require two more spacers and the required bolts. Was a fun phone call, always comforting to hear "your drivng like THAT?!?!"

 

Albie is sending me the two extra spacers.

 

One noise was the exhaust came off a hanger. That seems to have cured one thunk (or possibly two). The exhaust was banging against the sway bar. The sway bar is located in such a way that it is sort of useless.

 

 

So far there are two solutions. Drop the sway bar brackets by one inch. Second one is a 206.00 solution

http://www.poltec.us/products/subaru/suspension/rear_end_links/1a-df015.htm

 

I already talked to them and the extra 25.00 is to modify length of the threads. Surprisingly there is a quick turn around on this.

 

I am up for any suggestions from anyone. I havent been able to inspect the carrier universal joints yet, thats tomorrow.

 

nipper

[Virrdog]

I don't see how the sway bar is useless like that

 

Seems like it will still transfer the energy into the swaybar. Or is it banging into something?

 

Lengthening the mounts sounds kind of risky in the long term, gives the bar more leverage on those threads in the frame doesn't it?

[nipper]

I don't see how the sway bar is useless like that

 

Seems like it will still transfer the energy into the swaybar. Or is it banging into something?

 

Lengthening the mounts sounds kind of risky in the long term, gives the bar more leverage on those threads in the frame doesn't it?

 

Its banging against a few things, and i do feel more tail sway in the car. Its not as tight as it should be.

 

I dont like moving the mounts either. I think I found a plan c. Getting the aluminum C mounts (99.00) and having them cut and extended by 2.5 inches to orient things properly.

 

 

nipper

[Virrdog]

and i do feel more tail sway in the car. Its not as tight as it should be.

Ahh, but is that from the car being higher or lack of sway bar connectiveness?

[nipper]

Ahh, but is that from the car being higher or lack of sway bar connectiveness?

 

both. The sway bar is usually parallele to the road, not at a right angle to it.

 

nipper