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Some questions I have to ask...


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So I've been driving my coupe ALL over the place. I've covered at least 4,000 miles in the past month. It's a love hate relationship, I've put some serious cash into her recently.

 

I have a few questions though...

 

1. Will a sticky thermostat cause the car to get hotter than normal under load and up hills? I replaced the thermostat, but I'm weary of it. The cooling system had a LOT of black sludge crap in it.

 

2. How about radiator hoses that feel mushy? I replaced the radiator, but totally forgot about the hoses... and they feel sticky and mushy. Really weak! Can THAT cause overheating?

 

3. When I'm going up a hill, it doesnt ping, but it rattles the cat converter. It's got rust holes, and it rattles when I knock on it. Is that bad?

 

4. I just replaced the brake pads and rotors on the car, and I still have no pedal. When I pump the brakes, I can hear a hissing noise, by the booster. Bled them twice, used synthetic brake fluid, and um still, no pedal. At least it doesnt shimmy and shake when I stop now! Ummmm... ???

 

5. What do I do if the stock electric fan will not mount on the new radiator I got, without the fan hitting the end tank area of the radiator? Can I use spacers or something? I want to wire it to a switch, so I can run it up high grades and stuff.

 

6. I just replaced the filter and fluid in the transmission... Cleaned out a LOAD of black sludge out of the pan. Put new ATF in it, and it STILL acts odd sometimes. It'll shift at 3,500 RPM, 2,500 RPM, whatever IT wants to do. Governor issue, maybe?

 

Non-stop 900 mile trip coming up, gotta fix these snags... :grin:

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So I've been driving my coupe ALL over the place. I've covered at least 4,000 miles in the past month. It's a love hate relationship, I've put some serious cash into her recently.

 

I have a few questions though...

 

1. Will a sticky thermostat cause the car to get hotter than normal under load and up hills? I replaced the thermostat, but I'm weary of it. The cooling system had a LOT of black sludge crap in it.

 

 

2. How about radiator hoses that feel mushy? I replaced the radiator, but totally forgot about the hoses... and they feel sticky and mushy. Really weak! Can THAT cause overheating?

might want to flush out the radiator really good. Also your hoses may not cause the car to run hot, but it may burst on your and that can cause overheating :dead: i have some new hoses from the BRAT. Not sure what diameter you need but I can bring em and we can see.

 

3. When I'm going up a hill, it doesnt ping, but it rattles the cat converter. It's got rust holes, and it rattles when I knock on it. Is that bad?

that's cause you have a crappy auto tranny. j/k. Not sure if that will do anything bad.

4. I just replaced the brake pads and rotors on the car, and I still have no pedal. When I pump the brakes, I can hear a hissing noise, by the booster. Bled them twice, used synthetic brake fluid, and um still, no pedal. At least it doesnt shimmy and shake when I stop now! Ummmm... ???

Probably need to bleed out the brakes. B/c the brakes were working before this, and now it doesn't.

 

5. What do I do if the stock electric fan will not mount on the new radiator I got, without the fins hitting the end tank area of the radiator? Can I use spacers or something? I want to wire it to a switch, so I can run it up high grades and stuff.

weld it in place? once again J/K. I have two fans lying around, we can make it work. Switch is a good idea, just remember to fuse it so you don't get crispy wires and :Flame: your car

 

 

6. I just replaced the filter and fluid in the transmission... Cleaned out a LOAD of black sludge out of the pan. Put new ATF in it, and it STILL acts odd sometimes. It'll shift at 3,500 RPM, 2,500 RPM, whatever IT wants to do. Governor issue, maybe?

 

Non-stop 900 mile trip coming up, gotta fix these snags... :grin:

You should have flushed the tranny out when you did this.

 

I might be able to come over this weekend and we can get some of these problems fixed.

 

BW

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I moved to Irvine... :eek:

 

The transmission guy down here recommended that I didnt flush it, because maybe some crap is holding it in place?

 

Oh yeah, and the brakes never worked. Before, it was because the pads were cracked/low and the rotors were warped... now it's still just no pedal.

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So I've been driving my coupe ALL over the place. I've covered at least 4,000 miles in the past month. It's a love hate relationship, I've put some serious cash into her recently.

 

I have a few questions though...

 

1. Will a sticky thermostat cause the car to get hotter than normal under load and up hills? I replaced the thermostat, but I'm weary of it. The cooling system had a LOT of black sludge crap in it.

 

2. How about radiator hoses that feel mushy? I replaced the radiator, but totally forgot about the hoses... and they feel sticky and mushy. Really weak! Can THAT cause overheating?

 

3. When I'm going up a hill, it doesnt ping, but it rattles the cat converter. It's got rust holes, and it rattles when I knock on it. Is that bad?

 

4. I just replaced the brake pads and rotors on the car, and I still have no pedal. When I pump the brakes, I can hear a hissing noise, by the booster. Bled them twice, used synthetic brake fluid, and um still, no pedal. At least it doesnt shimmy and shake when I stop now! Ummmm... ???

 

5. What do I do if the stock electric fan will not mount on the new radiator I got, without the fan hitting the end tank area of the radiator? Can I use spacers or something? I want to wire it to a switch, so I can run it up high grades and stuff.

 

6. I just replaced the filter and fluid in the transmission... Cleaned out a LOAD of black sludge out of the pan. Put new ATF in it, and it STILL acts odd sometimes. It'll shift at 3,500 RPM, 2,500 RPM, whatever IT wants to do. Governor issue, maybe?

 

Non-stop 900 mile trip coming up, gotta fix these snags... :grin:

 

It sounds like you have the wrong radiator for the car. The fans should just bolt on. You should also replace the radiator cap and the hoses if they are spongy.

 

 

If the cat rattles when you knock it with your hand, the cat is clogged and dead. This will affect performance and cause the car to run hot.

 

YOu prrbly have a shot Booster. Pump the brakes 5-10 times with the car off. With your foot on the brake pedal, start the car. The pedal should go towards the floor. If it doesnt the booster is shot. If it passes you prbbly need a master cylinder.

 

Yes it sounds like your govenor is all gummed up. Its easy enough to replace.

 

yes at the very least fix the brake issue, they are kind of important.

 

nipper

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--Dealer thermostat or a Stant? Always use a dealer thermostat.

--Maybe the black stuff in the cooling system is disintegrating hose...replace them and keep the old ones as emergency spares. Murphy's Law guarantees the old ones will blow on the trip.

--Check the booster and brake lines carefully (or have a professional brake guy do it--yeah, brakes are kinda important). Has a new master cylinder been put on the car before you got it? Maybe the lines weren't tightened enough, onto the master cylinder. Or maybe you have a loose line on the vacuum booster.

--Does sound like the wrong radiator for that car, but you can make something work if you really want to; hardware-store brackets for example.

--I've also heard that it is a mistake to flush an old transmission that hasn't had it before, because the solvents they use to flush it will cause leaks.

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Did you make sure to bleed the brakes in the correct pattern? Bleeding brakes can be tricky for a lot of people until they know excatly where to start and what they're looking for. Have someone plop into the driver seat, without the car running and pump the brakes probably 10 times. Have them hold the pedal down and crack open the bleeder valve. You always want to start in the same spot to bleed brakes on any car. Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front.

 

If you like your car, replace the hoses without a second thought. When I did the engine swap in my coupe, I never fully bled the coolant system of air and it started to get hot on the freeway. I was almost home when the upper radiator hose burst and it was the original one with 260k miles on it. I also use dealer thermostats as well, always nice to spend a couple extra bucks.

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Regarding the radiator fan....

 

We have talked briefly on IM, but when your using your fone its hard, so I will go into my long drawn out detail here....

 

The like new rad I pulled out of the junkyard had no nuts or threads of any sort on it to bolt onto. The top lip and bottom lip, where the nuts were welded on my stock rad, simply had holes. It came with retaining clips, slipped over those holes, that received the bolts that held it onto the rad.

 

You said that your radiator has the welded nuts on it, but the fan interferes near the end tank. What you could do, is remove the radiator, and drill four holes maybe an inch towards the driver side of the welded nuts, get four retainer clips with bolts, and use them. If there isnt an inch to move over, then unbolt the fan and see how far over you can slide it until it hits the clutch fan shroud. If you think you can clear the welded nuts, and if you can move it over enough, this should work.

 

I will try to find pictures of the type of retainer clip I am talking about; I am probably not using the right term for the specific piece. I dunno if this is gonna help, but its what I meant to tell you about a week ago, heh....

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You always want to start in the same spot to bleed brakes on any car. Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front.

 

Generally speaking this is a good method. But Subaru actually recommends a different order, bleeding the secondary circuit first, then the primary. I've had good luck with this method

 

1st, Front left

2nd, rear right

3rd, front right

4th, rear left

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If my brakes are a litle spongy can i just bleed the rear and will that fix it?

 

No. Bleed the whole system or it is pointless.

 

However, first heck the thickness of the rear pads to see if they are thin, this can cause a pedal that falls very far and feels spongy.

 

If that is fine then bleed the whole system in this order

 

1st, Front left

2nd, rear right

3rd, front right

4th, rear left

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Alright thanx! Yeah i know the brakes are fine. I did them last summer. And the car dident move to much. But yeah i'll bleed the hole thing your right it would be pointless other wise.

 

And thank's for the order i have to do it in..

 

And as for the Lines, Those are good because they had under coating + grease on them. there still the glossy gray color!:headbang:

 

Thanks to everyone!

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