tacotim Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 I'm getting no heat in my brat, just outside temperature air. Radiator and hoses all are fine, engine heats up fine, fan blows air into the cabin fine, it's just not warm air. I felt the hoses in and out of the core and detailed the results in the image below. Do I need a new heater core? thanks, tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 i would say a clogged core line.top goes in? if i remember correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ether Circus Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 Good luck repairing the heater core... Easiest way to do it is to cut out the side. Not worth the work to pull the whole dash. there is a write up in the USRM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 You may be able to flush it out with a garden hose. Disconnect it at the firewall from the engine compartment. You may be able to get it to free up by running water in both hoses to the heater core. Not high pressure just alternate back and forth between the two hoses to try to coaxe it free. After it starts to free up connect the hoses and fill it with antifreeze along with a coolant flushing agent. Run that through the system and then drain it clean and refill with fresh antifreeze and water. Try that a couple of times and you should be good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacotim Posted September 20, 2007 Author Share Posted September 20, 2007 You may be able to flush it out with a garden hose. Disconnect it at the firewall from the engine compartment. You may be able to get it to free up by running water in both hoses to the heater core. Not high pressure just alternate back and forth between the two hoses to try to coaxe it free. After it starts to free up connect the hoses and fill it with antifreeze along with a coolant flushing agent. Run that through the system and then drain it clean and refill with fresh antifreeze and water. Try that a couple of times and you should be good to go. Hmm, when you get a "cooling system flush" at the mechanics, does the heater core get flushed too, or just the radiator? I'll givem a call tomorrow and find out. Many thanks for the helpful hints, i found the post in the USRM about replacing the heater core, Here's hoping it doesn't come to that.-tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85T-REX Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 Hmm, when you get a "cooling system flush" at the mechanics, does the heater core get flushed too, or just the radiator? I'll givem a call tomorrow and find out. Many thanks for the helpful hints, i found the post in the USRM about replacing the heater core, Here's hoping it doesn't come to that.-tim That depends whether they turned the heater control to hot before they did the flush. Under that black plastic cover in the center of the pic is a bypass valve that opens and closes when you turn your temp control between cold and hot. Check that to see if it is connected and working properly. You may need to disconnect the cable and work the valve by hand to see if it works freely. If not, don't force it, just work it back and forth a while and it should eventually loosen up. Also, make sure the cable isn't bent. When the valve is closed it will circulate the water just between the two lines. That's why they will both be hot and the core will be warm. Hope this helps... rex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j2coe Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 you can get the do it your self radiator flush too. keep the heater on so it wil circulate through the heater core ( if it is passing any at all) most of those have you drive about 6 hours for the flush over however many days it takes, so you can see if that gets some heat back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacotim Posted September 20, 2007 Author Share Posted September 20, 2007 That depends whether they turned the heater control to hot before they did the flush. Under that black plastic cover in the center of the pic is a bypass valve that opens and closes when you turn your temp control between cold and hot. Check that to see if it is connected and working properly. You may need to disconnect the cable and work the valve by hand to see if it works freely. If not, don't force it, just work it back and forth a while and it should eventually loosen up. Also, make sure the cable isn't bent. When the valve is closed it will circulate the water just between the two lines. That's why they will both be hot and the core will be warm. Hope this helps... rex Rex, I think your diagnosis is correct . I pulled off the plastic cover and had a look, pics below detail what I found. Problem seems to be the cable housing is busted so the valve doesn't move. But trying to move the valve by hand wasn't working, Do i take a pair of plyers to it or is that too much pressure. I couldn't turn it by hand. Any tips appreciated. -tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85T-REX Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 You can give the pliers a try but be sure not to bend anything. If it does start to move, start the car and then continue to work at it. That way the debris will be flushed away from the valve. If it still won't budge, you should remove it and work on it that way. That way you can spray solvents into the valve from the different directions. It should eventually come loose. Just be careful. If all else fails, you can pick up another one at a jy pretty cheap. You'll need to drain some coolant to get it out. When you refill the coolant, use distilled water with fresh antifreeze. 50/50. rex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacotim Posted September 25, 2007 Author Share Posted September 25, 2007 WE HAVE HEAT!! Just updating on the progress, I managed to get the valve turned with some gentle plyer action. Flushed it out, refilled, and voila! Heat! in the process though, I've discovered another problem, there is a problem in the mechanics of the switch that redirects the air flow to the windshield defrost, can't get it to open that door. So i'm currently investigating. Will keep you posted with progress. Thanks again for everyones suggestions and encouragement, I've never been a car fix it guy, and this board has been a great resource. -tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85T-REX Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 AWESOMENESS!!!!!!! I had to do the same thing with my '84 when I bought it. For some reason, some folks in California seem to think it's okay to run straight tap water through the cooling system. Mine was in a whole lot worse shape than yours. Make sure you always run the 50/50 antifreeze/DISTILLED water mix. Your cooling system will love you for it. The cable for the air direction control runs up the passenger side and connects to a cam there that works the doors. Check that one and make sure it isn't bent or out of adjustment. If the doors still won't work right, you may need to take the air intake hose off and reach in and see if there is anything going on in there. Watch out for critters! I've never had that problem with any of mine so keep us posted on what the fix is. rex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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