oooo Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 I have lifted my 1995 legacy lsi with outback springs and struts and have just purchased heavyduty standard height outback springs because my old springs sag some and need to be replaced, right now my axles are operating at a semi good angle but they are nowhere near the stock horizontal position, I was wondering if i could add 1 inch rubber spring spacers when I install the new springs for more lift or would that put to much strain on the cv's and axles, or would the axles even pop out because of the angles because I think I read somewhere that a guy who lifted his legacy with outback struts plus the 2 inch lifted king springs had problems with his cv's popping out. How are the members who lifted there imprezas cv's and axles holding up because I believe you get like around 4 inches of just suspension lift or more and your axles will be operating at the same or maybe more extreme angles then mine would be. Or am I just worried about nothing, but since this is my daily driver I just want to make sure I have all my bases covered. Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrturbo Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 Find a 96-99 legacy outback. There are spacer blocks on both the front and rear crossmembers where they bolt to the body. You may also notice some tow issues on the rear, I would also change the mounting brackets where the lateral rear control arms meet the body and in you are doing the c/member spacers run the outback front control arm brackets (that aluminum part with the bushing in it) as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oooo Posted September 25, 2007 Author Share Posted September 25, 2007 Thanks for that suggestion, but right now I don't have money for all of those parts off of an outback, I just spent $368 on the heavy duty springs and am spending some more money on new brake calipars and pads and some other repairs, so I was just wondering if the cv's and axles could take just another inch because, I can get those spring spacers for $30 for 4 and put them in easily when the springs are getting done, I think I saw a picture of the back of zapar's lifted outback sport with the swampers on it and I think the axle angle would be about that or maybe just a bit more for my legacy with the 1 inch spring spacers added in, so if he could add some comments or suggestions or anybody else thats done the supsension lift on a impreza that would be great. And if the general concensus is that they can't handle it then I might just have to start saving up for a lift kit over the the next year if nothing else breaks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oooo Posted September 30, 2007 Author Share Posted September 30, 2007 Just out of curiosity until theres some more answers to my original cv question. Where are all of the spacers on an outback located, other then the front and rear cross members are there ones on the transmission and rear diff also? thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rweddy Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 I have lifted my 1995 legacy lsi with outback springs and struts and have just purchased heavyduty standard height outback springs because my old springs sag some and need to be replaced, right now my axles are operating at a semi good angle but they are nowhere near the stock horizontal position, I was wondering if i could add 1 inch rubber spring spacers when I install the new springs for more lift or would that put to much strain on the cv's and axles, or would the axles even pop out because of the angles because I think I read somewhere that a guy who lifted his legacy with outback struts plus the 2 inch lifted king springs had problems with his cv's popping out. How are the members who lifted there imprezas cv's and axles holding up because I believe you get like around 4 inches of just suspension lift or more and your axles will be operating at the same or maybe more extreme angles then mine would be. Or am I just worried about nothing, but since this is my daily driver I just want to make sure I have all my bases covered. Thanks in advance Sorry to hijack this thread but I have been looking for some who has done this lift. I am getting read to do the same to my 91 LS Wagon. I got a set of outback springs/struts to install. Did you have any installation issues? What about alignment problems? Did everything just bolt right in? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrturbo Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 Install is straight forward. You will just have to swap the rear strut mounts for some early style ones. On the rears you might want to see if you can smack the area in on the body a little where the lower spring perch would sit. I had issues going over curbs and rocks with noise in the rear from the spring seat hitting the body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rweddy Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 Install is straight forward. You will just have to swap the rear strut mounts for some early style ones. On the rears you might want to see if you can smack the area in on the body a little where the lower spring perch would sit. I had issues going over curbs and rocks with noise in the rear from the spring seat hitting the body. You are talking about swapping the rear the top hats right? Anyone know the height difference between using: a: outback struts/stock legacy springs b: outback struts & springs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrturbo Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 http://new.photos.yahoo.com/rhamersly/album/576460762404710897 The pics of the struts are the rears. I used OB struts and springs and 205/70-15s. If the pics don't come up right away you need to click the tab on the right that says select and then this page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 You are talking about swapping the rear the top hats right?Anyone know the height difference between using: a: outback struts/stock legacy springs b: outback struts & springs Yes, you'll need old style 'top hats' for the rears... or you can drill new holes....which I've been running since March '07 w/no issues. Except for the rear top hats, everything bolted up the same. I've NOT done any serious off-roading so not sure if there's rubbing @ full tilt. Also, if you have the rear anti-sway bar as my '90 does, it might rub the gas tank - although mine doesn't. Remember to mark the front strut adjustment bolt (top one?) BEFORE you loosen/remove it. If you put it back where it was, your alignment (if correct beforehand) should still be good - mine was when I took it in to be checked. Sorry, no info on height difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rweddy Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 Yes, you'll need old style 'top hats' for the rears... or you can drill new holes....which I've been running since March '07 w/no issues. Except for the rear top hats, everything bolted up the same. I've NOT done any serious off-roading so not sure if there's rubbing @ full tilt. Also, if you have the rear anti-sway bar as my '90 does, it might rub the gas tank - although mine doesn't. Remember to mark the front strut adjustment bolt (top one?) BEFORE you loosen/remove it. If you put it back where it was, your alignment (if correct beforehand) should still be good - mine was when I took it in to be checked. Sorry, no info on height difference. Thanks for the input!So you just drilled new holes for the rear and keep the newer style tophats? I like this idea since I would not have to mess with taking the old top hats off and putting on the new ones. I have been told about marking the bolt, do I need to mark anything on the rear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 Thanks for the input!So you just drilled new holes for the rear and keep the newer style tophats? I like this idea since I would not have to mess with taking the old top hats off and putting on the new ones. I have been told about marking the bolt, do I need to mark anything on the rear? Yep, I was able to reuse one hole (I think it was the inner one), and drilled the other two. The top of the hat does NOT fit in the hole if you do this, but in my case it's only off 1/4 inch and tightened up fine, which I could live with. If you do a lot of muddy/wet driving I 'spose stuff could get up in there, so seal it w/something if that's a concern. If you drilled 3 new holes it should fit in the hole, but check for clearance on the inside of the wheel well, regardless. I didn't have the tools to swap hats, so I just said WTH, and did it...this is a $2000 car that only I drive; not a new OB XT for the family. And if it doesn't work for whatever reason? Pull 'em out and swap hats. Nothing to mark in the rear, that I recall. Also, you'll figure it out, but when dealing w/the brake lines, I pulled out the metal tab that holds 'em in place, cut the bracket in the middle so I could move one side up and the other down to get the line out. This could be an issue if you're in the NE Rust-land and they break, but mine were rusty and are still intact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rweddy Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 Yep, I was able to reuse one hole (I think it was the inner one), and drilled the other two. The top of the hat does NOT fit in the hole if you do this, but in my case it's only off 1/4 inch and tightened up fine, which I could live with. If you do a lot of muddy/wet driving I 'spose stuff could get up in there, so seal it w/something if that's a concern. If you drilled 3 new holes it should fit in the hole, but check for clearance on the inside of the wheel well, regardless. I didn't have the tools to swap hats, so I just said WTH, and did it...this is a $2000 car that only I drive; not a new OB XT for the family. And if it doesn't work for whatever reason? Pull 'em out and swap hats. Nothing to mark in the rear, that I recall. Also, you'll figure it out, but when dealing w/the brake lines, I pulled out the metal tab that holds 'em in place, cut the bracket in the middle so I could move one side up and the other down to get the line out. This could be an issue if you're in the NE Rust-land and they break, but mine were rusty and are still intact. Yea I am just going to cut off the tabs rather then pull the brake lines out and then bleed the system. I live in rust free Colorado so the new and old struts are rust free. How do you like the ride? Is is stiffer than before? How far off is your speedo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 Yea I am just going to cut off the tabs rather then pull the brake lines out and then bleed the system. I live in rust free Colorado so the new and old struts are rust free. How do you like the ride? Is is stiffer than before? How far off is your speedo? Definitely stiffer, but my stock struts were gone, so not really a fair comparison. I also bought used (60K) replacement struts....so your new ones will be firmer yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rweddy Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 Definitely stiffer, but my stock struts were gone, so not really a fair comparison. I also bought used (60K) replacement struts....so your new ones will be firmer yet. My old ones are completly toast! 175 on orignals, I also got used struts, I like my cars and parts finely aged like a good wine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now