captainkf Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 I have a 92 loyale and am midway through a brakepad replacement for the front rotors. I have removed the old pads, put in the new ones and the caliper's piston will not back out. I thought that if it was rotated it would back out leaving space for the now thicker new pads. This is not the case though. I tried bleading and gently prying thinking by taking off the presure it would push bake, not the case. My car is in the air, in the front yard and I need help asap!!! Please tell me how to finish this seemingly simple job. -Richad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 I have a 92 loyale and am midway through a brakepad replacement for the front rotors. I have removed the old pads, put in the new ones and the caliper's piston will not back out. I thought that if it was rotated it would back out leaving space for the now thicker new pads. This is not the case though. I tried bleading and gently prying thinking by taking off the presure it would push bake, not the case. My car is in the air, in the front yard and I need help asap!!! Please tell me how to finish this seemingly simple job. -Richad Run down to NAPA or the equivalent autoparts store and get the small tool that works with a 3/8" drive to turn the piston back into place. Costs und $10US. Also, open the bleeder valve to relieve pressure while turning. That should do it for you. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 I always have to push on the piston while simultaneously turning it that last few mm. Also sometimes it helps to disconnect the E-brake cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainkf Posted September 21, 2007 Author Share Posted September 21, 2007 I am able to turn it with channel lock pliers, but it does not want to go in. I will try pushing at the same time. I would go to the autoparts store but, well, I have no car and it's 15 km's away. How difficult is it to disconnect the parking brake? -Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MSSLGECKO Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 I haven't done brakes on an EA82, but can't you press the calliper piston back with a large C-clamp? Or do you have to use a special tool? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82glsw Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 if you cant get out to a store to purchase a tool u can use this method. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58537 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 Yes you have to push while turning the caliper in...some people also use a large set of needle nose plyers. Its a pain the first time you do them but after you get one done it isn't so bad...also..did you remove the brake resevoir cap? if the fluid is already topped off then it will not allow you to push the calipers back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 If you remove the bleeder screw on the caliper completely it WILL screw back in. You have fluid pressure holding the piston out. I've had to deal with this many times. You will make a mess and you will have to bleed the system, but new fluid is better than old - brake fluid absorbs moisture over time and should be changed at least every two years anyway. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainkf Posted September 22, 2007 Author Share Posted September 22, 2007 thanks all, got it done. They feel a bit soft though, could they need bleeding? -Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 Yeah i was going to link this but looks like im too late: You have to losen the bleeder valve to make things easier... and yes, bleed the brakes when you are done. -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hodaka Rider Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 thanks all, got it done. They feel a bit soft though, could they need bleeding? -Richard Definitely!! And don't try driving down to Trail until you've bled them good and thorough, either. Shoot, wish I had time to come up and help you out, but I think I'm doing my front brakes this weekend, too (rotors and pads). (I'm in Nelson, BTW) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 but can't you press the calliper piston back with a large C-clamp? Do NOT just press it (the caliper piston). The parking brake adjuster mechanisim will not allow it, and or be ruined. [edited for clarity] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainkf Posted September 22, 2007 Author Share Posted September 22, 2007 No not just press what? They engage just fine, I can lock the car up repeatedly, they're just a bit soft. But I will bleed them tommorow just to be on the safe side. To bleed the brakes, I fire up the engine, loosen one bleeder valve, depress the pedal a couple times, fluid squirts out, tighten and repeat. Can one person do this or do I need to tighten the bleeder while the brake is being depressed? Thanks for all the help and it's great to meet a neighbor. -Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 Can one person do this or do I need to tighten the bleeder while the brake is being depressed? No, its a two man job; you have to keep the pedal down until its tightened. There is also a specific recommended order for bleeding the brakes, and I can never remember what that is. (seriously, that info needs to go into the USRM, titled as such.. if someone chimes in here I will do the legwork of submitting the post ) You CAN buy speed bleeders, which are bleeder valves with a check ball in them that will only allow fluid OUT of the bleeder when loosened, and NOT let air IN.. but they arent ridiculously cheap (~$10-15 per wheel IIRC) and I cannot be certain that one exists which would fit and function properly in the soob.. but thats mostly disclaimer, I would THINK that it would be a simple enough matter. BTW I think the "do not push in" comment was made in reference to just pushing the piston back in; at least, thats how I read it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainkf Posted September 22, 2007 Author Share Posted September 22, 2007 Do I need to bleed the rear brakes also, even though no work has been done back there? -Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 Yes. Font and back. the brakes get bled in an X pattern. Thats how the brake circuits were designed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hodaka Rider Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 I bought a speed bleeder at Taylor Wilton in town here - think it was about $10, worked great. I bled starting with the longest line, working to the shortest. Just checked the manual, and it says: RR, LF, LR, RF. I wasn't so particular, seeing as I knew I'd be doing it again soon (this was when I did my rear disc swap, right after putting the swampers on). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 Yes. Front and back. the brakes get bled in an X pattern. Thats how the brake circuits were designed. I bought a speed bleeder at Taylor Wilton in town here - think it was about $10, worked great. I bled starting with the longest line, working to the shortest. Just checked the manual, and it says: RR, LF, LR, RF. I wasn't so particular, seeing as I knew I'd be doing it again soon (this was when I did my rear disc swap, right after putting the swampers on). Consolidated both relevant above posts to make abundantly clear... and I have to ask Hodaka Rider if he is talking about a vacuum "gun" or the little speed bleeder valves I was talking about, since you only mentioned one.. the bleeders I was talking about look like this, and are permanent replacements for the bleeder valves in your calipers... Your typical bleeder valves look just like that, except there is no spring and check ball in the center. The seal is formed JUST below the end of the thread, so that when you back it off a tiny bit it is open to the atmosphere, both ways. The check ball eliminates the possibility for air flowing into the caliper. (just added that for abundant clarity since I am submitting this post to USRM under "ea82 (or series?) vehicle brake bleed order" Thanks for the concrete info, guys.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 I haven't done brakes on an EA82, but can't you press the calliper piston back with a large C-clamp? Or do you have to use a special tool?C-clamp doesn't work since the piston is on a threaded shaft. You have to turn AND push at the same time. Sometimes you have to push pretty hard which makes it difficult to turn it at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 I am able to turn it with channel lock pliers, but it does not want to go in. I will try pushing at the same time. I would go to the autoparts store but, well, I have no car and it's 15 km's away. How difficult is it to disconnect the parking brake? -Richard Releasing the handbrake should be sufficient; but after re-leasing it you can slip the cable off the lever more easily if you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 Yes. Font and back. the brakes get bled in an X pattern. Thats how the brake circuits were designed.Bleed them starting with the wheel furthest from the brake master cylinder, then next furthest, and so on. Finish with the wheel closest to the master cylinder. Watch the level of brake fluid in the reservoir; don't let it get too low since you'll just suck more air into the system and need to bleed more out. Edit: I stand corrected; I'll go with the manual as Hodaka Rider suggested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hodaka Rider Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 What I used is a bleeder hose with the check valve built into it. Any way you look at it, you need a hose, so this is the way I chose to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainkf Posted September 23, 2007 Author Share Posted September 23, 2007 Thanks for the advice all! I will finish it up Monday. -Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 What I used is a bleeder hose with the check valve built into it. Any way you look at it, you need a hose, so this is the way I chose to do it. +1, I like to use a hose always, too.. that way you can SEE if there were any air bubbles, even five, ten seconds later.. (as long as its a narrow enough hose) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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