subaru360 Posted April 28, 2008 Share Posted April 28, 2008 If you cut the seal, try to keep at least one section intact. Then cut it so you can get the profile of the seal. Some of the restoration places have profiles you can look at to try and match it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted April 28, 2008 Author Share Posted April 28, 2008 If you cut the seal, try to keep at least one section intact. Then cut it so you can get the profile of the seal. Some of the restoration places have profiles you can look at to try and match it up. Thats what I was thinking I needed to do, thanks for the tip. I'll talk to my windshield guy at work and see if I can get more input as well, he might even let me borrow some materials if need be for the removal :-p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted April 28, 2008 Share Posted April 28, 2008 Bad timing. Charlie has or had several of those,old,removed from cars,but still good enough to use if no other existed. I'll see if he managed to save any,I'm sure he tucked them away somewhere. If he has one not worth using we'll cut that one for a cross section to match up new stock to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted April 29, 2008 Author Share Posted April 29, 2008 If he has one not worth using we'll cut that one for a cross section to match up new stock to. That sounds like a plan. Heck, just a photo of that cross section is all thats really needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted April 29, 2008 Share Posted April 29, 2008 That sounds like a plan. Heck, just a photo of that cross section is all thats really needed. If you can get a seal thats already out and in tact, best thing to do is soak it in automatic trany fluid to try and revive the seal to make it flexible again. Same thing goes for interior pieces that were originally vinyl or the likes that have become hard form sun (like dashboards). Using petroleum jelly on them and let sit for a few days, softens it right back up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted April 29, 2008 Author Share Posted April 29, 2008 If you can get a seal thats already out and in tact, best thing to do is soak it in automatic trany fluid to try and revive the seal to make it flexible again. Same thing goes for interior pieces that were originally vinyl or the likes that have become hard form sun (like dashboards). Using petroleum jelly on them and let sit for a few days, softens it right back up. I have a few chassis plugs I can test that with too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted May 1, 2008 Author Share Posted May 1, 2008 Off-topic question: I just discovered there are TWO versions of the 1977 FSM... The brown version (part number MSA-107) and the blue version (MSA-108). I presume the updated (correct) one is the blue one with the higher part number? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 Off-topic question: I just discovered there are TWO versions of the 1977 FSM... The brown version (part number MSA-107) and the blue version (MSA-108). I presume the updated (correct) one is the blue one with the higher part number? Probably. I also have the red supplement book for the Brat in '77 as well:-p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted May 11, 2008 Author Share Posted May 11, 2008 Sorry for the lack of recent updates, been kind of busy (just finished working 12 days in a row for inventory :unamused: ) but I've got a couple of new shots of the car to keep you occupied. Oh, and I'm also soaking the windshield molding in petroleum jelly as recommended to make it softer for removal in the next week or two, and i've also put started putting together a binder (with photos and such) to show body shops. Anyway, some pics as promised: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maudsland Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 how hard is the rubber on the inside, if it is still soft enough just put pressure from inside out, ( i used to sit on the seats with my feet on the screen ), and get a friend to help roll the inside rubber where the pressure is to realease it, once it has started then it is easier from there. Thierry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted May 13, 2008 Author Share Posted May 13, 2008 how hard is the rubber on the inside, if it is still soft enough just put pressure from inside out, ( i used to sit on the seats with my feet on the screen ), and get a friend to help roll the inside rubber where the pressure is to realease it, once it has started then it is easier from there.Thierry The inside isn't too bad, its mostly the outside that has problems. The rear window molding is in better shape than the front too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted May 22, 2008 Author Share Posted May 22, 2008 Another Carb just arrived, rebuilt perfectly courtesy Jerry DeMoss! Its the Weber 38/38, which as you can see is similar to the 32/36 but superior in several ways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 Wow I am amazed just how monsterous that weber is compared to your stock carb. That stock one looks puny! If you are putting that on the ff-1 then it will really sing in the upper rpm band for sure! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted May 23, 2008 Author Share Posted May 23, 2008 Wow I am amazed just how monsterous that weber is compared to your stock carb. That stock one looks puny! If you are putting that on the ff-1 then it will really sing in the upper rpm band for sure! Oh yes its going on the FF-1, your carb is in FAR better shape than any of the carbs I have, and of course the best performing (and actually relatively easy to tune), but it might be awhile before its up and running Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted May 24, 2008 Author Share Posted May 24, 2008 Man, using the rope to dislodge the windshield gaskets and remove the windshield + gaskets together without damaging the gasket is a pain in the butt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted May 25, 2008 Author Share Posted May 25, 2008 Did some more bodywork today, removed a couple little extra metal pieces, ground down some other weld spots and such. Gave up on the windows, going to have to use someone to get them out, I just don't have the right tool to do it nor the skill the do it properly. The good news is the rubber is in VERY good condition from what I can tell, since its easy to work with and not dry in any way (the petroleum slathering helped I believe). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 The good news is the rubber is in VERY good condition from what I can tell, since its easy to work with and not dry in any way (the petroleum slathering helped I believe). Very interesting indeed. Another trick I learned from back in my rubber band airplane days is that glycerin type hand soap help preserve rubber as well as make it more pliable. Not sure if that tip will help you any. Sounds like a very cool in depth project for sure. Glad you are taking you time and getting it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted May 26, 2008 Author Share Posted May 26, 2008 Just for reference, here are the pics from today... Lets see if anyone can see exactly what I did :-p I also found a new rust spot on that last pic on the driver side rear fender well (couple holes there, not good) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 Lets see if anyone can see exactly what I did :-p Cut some more sheet metal rust spots. Also I noticed you were doing a mockup of driving the car or you were recently taking a "stool" sample within your car. I am sick I know. Good work so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 Cut some more sheet metal rust spots. Also I noticed you were doing a mockup of driving the car or you were recently taking a "stool" sample within your car. I am sick I know. Good work so far. Its not a stool, he's test fitting his super light wieght racing seat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted May 26, 2008 Author Share Posted May 26, 2008 Cut some more sheet metal rust spots. Actually no, I didn't cut out any more rust spots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted May 26, 2008 Author Share Posted May 26, 2008 You know, working Mon-Fri 8-5 is making this project difficult for me since ALL the body shops have the same hours I do, plus take the same holidays off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyrally Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 You know, working Mon-Fri 8-5 is making this project difficult for me since ALL the body shops have the same hours I do, plus take the same holidays off why does that sound familure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostamojen Posted May 31, 2008 Author Share Posted May 31, 2008 Success! I got the windshields out! It just took a bit more silicon spray and force than I originally thought, but the rear one came out super easy, and the front one came out with a little bit of work... The good news: The molding and windshields came out WITHOUT any damage! The bad new: I talked to a body shop this week, and they basically told me, "learn to weld" :-\ Anyway, here are a couple pics from today... The rear window area had a bit of rust that I just removed and put some paint on, hence the nice bright white color. The front window area was actually in good shape, no rust except one small spot, but it does have some dings on the passenger side area that need fixing: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted June 1, 2008 Share Posted June 1, 2008 The bad new: I talked to a body shop this week, and they basically told me, "learn to weld" :-\ Find another shop. Im sure there's a restoration shop somewhere in sacramento that will be willing to help you. Just gotta be willing to pay for it. Sounds like the shop you talked to today didn't want your business. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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