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Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...


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As long as all that new steel and the rest of the car is rust proofed it will last, but leave it bare inside those new sills and you'll have another rust bucket in under 2 years.

That is something i'm concerned about. There doesn't appear to be anything inside the sills.

 

How should I go about rust proofing that area? There's not much access to that area either.

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That is something i'm concerned about. There doesn't appear to be anything inside the sills.

 

How should I go about rust proofing that area? There's not much access to that area either.

 

You can drill small holes and spray rustproofing inside. Then put a rubber plug in the hole you drilled. That's how most places do it.

 

Are you really going to drive this in the rain or store it outside anyway? If not I wouldn't worry about it too much.

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That is something i'm concerned about. There doesn't appear to be anything inside the sills.

 

How should I go about rust proofing that area? There's not much access to that area either.

 

Like Subaru360 said, using a hose with a special nozzle fitted, you drill a hole to suit the size at the end of the sill so that the hose or a flexible wand with nozzle attached is inserted, pushed all the way up and spray the product as you withdraw the hose at the required rate to ensure that all the surfaces are nicely coated. Your nozzle should have a nice 360° spray patern.

I used an electric spray gun to apply the Valvoline Tectyl/Fisholene mix. Worked a treat.

Michael

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I would suggest using por 15 in those areas so it will convert the rust areas to a black primer and prevent anything further.

That I have

Like Subaru360 said, using a hose with a special nozzle fitted, you drill a hole to suit the size at the end of the sill so that the hose or a flexible wand with nozzle attached is inserted, pushed all the way up and spray the product as you withdraw the hose at the required rate to ensure that all the surfaces are nicely coated. Your nozzle should have a nice 360° spray patern.

I used an electric spray gun to apply the Valvoline Tectyl/Fisholene mix. Worked a treat.

Michael

That I don't have...

Are you really going to drive this in the rain or store it outside anyway? If not I wouldn't worry about it too much.

Sitting outside? Not so much.

 

Driving in the rain? Possibly. I do want this chassis to be able to hold up to the elements as best as possible.

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That I have

 

That I don't have...

 

Sitting outside? Not so much.

 

Driving in the rain? Possibly. I do want this chassis to be able to hold up to the elements as best as possible.

 

The spray gun that I used cost about $50 Aust. The brand was Wagner I think. I also bought an accessory 5ft extension complete with the 360° nozzle. It could handle some pretty thick stuff but I had to play with the viscoscity with more or less solvent and adjusting the stroke length until I got the right spray pattern. I would rustproof before I'd attempt filling those cavities with chassis foam. You would lose all access after. It's messy and be prepared with lots of little tins to catch all the drips or put up with a messy driveway.

Michael

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as regards rust proofing, of course it is better to do this than not. i think most everyone can agree on that.

 

as regards your particular situation, seperate needs from wants. If for example, the car will see limited use, is always garaged and consequently have limted exposure to the elements then the need is certainly low. i am not familiar enough with the car to know if the sills are sealed or not, but if they are this would further diminish the need to rust proof. As for what product to use, there are hundreds on the market. my experience with POR has been very good.

 

as regards restoration costs, for most main-stream cars, the largest item is usually labor. the hours spent stripping a car or sanding a fender is not dependent on make or model. Accordinly i would suspect the restoration costs associated with this project to be not dissimilar from your average 1961 international scout, 1962 MGA, mid-sixties corvette or 1970 ford bronco. if you are taking them all the way down to the shell or frame and starting over a lot of it is the same.

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  • 2 weeks later...
no kidding!!!

 

I'd rather have it than a new WRX, any day of the week!

 

I Agree, Absolutely!

I Really Like your Car and the Progress Done, Great Restoration Work, Very Well Done.

About Rust Proofing it, Also you can use some "Spray-On" Chemicals, I Suggest the TOFF:

 

Because it is a Epoxy Sprayed-on Anti Rust Bed Liner, that in my Country is used for People who wants to Avoid Rust, in Severe Conditions with Great Results, is easy to do and Works very well.

Kind Regards.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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I think you've got more pull with Charlie than I do these days so maybe ask him about one if you didn't already.

 

I don't recall anything like that in our NOS lot. From the pic I thought it was somethnig else.

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I think you've got more pull with Charlie than I do these days so maybe ask him about one if you didn't already.

 

I don't recall anything like that in our NOS lot. From the pic I thought it was somethnig else.

The front disc brakes were never on US spec cars :(

 

I just called Charlie a couple days ago too, but ya, unless he has a Japanese (or possibly south-American) spec "sports' model, he won't have the disc brakes.

 

Plus, I already gave him a list of parts i'm looking for, I don't think he needs more, lol!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry again for the lack of updates, been trying to work out several things (Paint, Engine, etc.) that didn't really change the status of the car.

 

HOWEVER, today I went to my uncles house and he helped make some bushings...

 

 

0620091357.jpg

0620091428.jpg

 

More pics coming tommorow!

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As promised, pics from today of the bushings :)

 

homemadebushings1.jpg

 

NOT PICTURED: The Drelin control arm bushings.

 

I need some way of bonding the urethane to the metal for the engine mounts. Any experience with that anyone?

 

Here are some pics of them installed. The front subframe bushing, which was machined from urethane with the wood lath as seen in the previous photo, and some shock top bushings and the black subframe bushing:

 

homemadebushings2.jpg

homemadebushings3.jpg

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Now that's how to solve availability problems. Just make it yourself! What led you to choose Delrin for the control arm bushes instead of urethane? I'm no expert but it would seem the urethane would give a little compliance for a somewhat smoother ride than Delrin, which is pretty solid. Where did you soure the raw materials?

 

Mark

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Now that's how to solve availability problems. Just make it yourself! What led you to choose Delrin for the control arm bushes instead of urethane? I'm no expert but it would seem the urethane would give a little compliance for a somewhat smoother ride than Delrin, which is pretty solid. Where did you soure the raw materials?

 

Mark

Tom at Kartboy recommended the Delrin, said that it was better for machining than urethane. But I probably should have used the urethane after we tried it, worked better than expected.

 

Got everything on ebay actually. Pretty cheap too.

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Tom at Kartboy recommended the Delrin, said that it was better for machining than urethane. But I probably should have used the urethane after we tried it, worked better than expected.

 

When I have had urethane pieces made the secret is to freeze the urethane (in an industrial freezer), this makes it hard enough to machine on a lathe and once it has warmed up returns to its normal softness.

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