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Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...


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Ok, one thing I havent been able to figure out is how do you remove the end of the crank that the flywheel bolts on to? I can't figure it out, is it pressed on? I would like to think I could remove it while its still on the car, If I could it would make changing cams a million times easier.... I tried removing one from a post 80 EA71 block, but all I managed to do was mess up my puller....

 

-Bill

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Ok, one thing I havent been able to figure out is how do you remove the end of the crank that the flywheel bolts on to? I can't figure it out, is it pressed on? I would like to think I could remove it while its still on the car, If I could it would make changing cams a million times easier.... I tried removing one from a post 80 EA71 block, but all I managed to do was mess up my puller....

 

-Bill

You peaked my curiousity, so I took a gander at the FSM's...

 

NONE of them show how to remove it!!! :eek:

 

ALL of them (1100, 1400, 1600) just skip a step and magically its off while they show pics checking for conrod measurements :mad:

 

Luckily my shop foreman at work has worked on Subaru's since the 80's, so he will know what to do. I'll have to ask tomorrow I guess!

 

BTW, I do know its held on by a woodruff key, and is just pressed on, but I don't know which tool Subaru says to use to do it.

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Just some food for thought. I pulled the drivetrain out of the 73' today and did some comparing, EA63 to EA71 (early). Here is what I found out. Some of this may be common knowledge already, but it's news to me!:lol:

 

The 1600 bellhousing will not mate to the 1400 trans. Little bit wider.

The 1400 flywheel will bolt up to the 1600 crank (the early motor at least)

So, if you use the 1600 trans, you would need the 1600 bell/flywheel/clutch. If you go with a 1400 trans, you use the 1400 bell/flywheel/clutch. If you use the 1100 trans, I don't know! Seems the 1400 clutch is 7 1/8" and the 1600 is 7 7/8".

 

 

Mark

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The 1600 bellhousing will not mate to the 1400 trans. Little bit wider.

The 1400 flywheel will bolt up to the 1600 crank (the early motor at least)

So, if you use the 1600 trans, you would need the 1600 bell/flywheel/clutch. If you go with a 1400 trans, you use the 1400 bell/flywheel/clutch. If you use the 1100 trans, I don't know! Seems the 1400 clutch is 7 1/8" and the 1600 is 7 7/8".

In your case, if you went with a 1600 block i'd use a 1600 transmission.

 

I've already solved my bellhousing issue though :)

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Alright, time for a nice new shiny update...

 

Couple weeks ago, I got a message about this post over on the XT forum:

 

http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=10857&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&sid=eb251d5a2da1494a8c55084f4eaa1e7d

 

Turns out, a 1971/72 FF-1 showed up in a junkyard in PA! (albiet apparently it rear-ended something)

 

Luckily, MPtyza volunteered (along with a few dineros) to remove a few parts from that car for me!!!

 

PAparts.jpg

 

That might not look like much, but that was the first round of parts he's sending me. ALL of those parts are things that were either broken or missing from my car! :D

 

He also managed to pull the cylinder heads off of the EA62 (1300) motor, which are as far as I know, practically the same as the EA63 4-port heads (the EA63 supposedly is just a bored out EA62). Here is a pic of the head next to the EA63 single-port heads I have, note how the valves are the same size:

 

ea62-63headcomparo.jpg

 

So today, I got the heads together with the shortblock and mocked it all up:

 

enginemockup1.jpg

enginemockup2.jpg

enginemockup3.jpg

valveroom.jpg

 

Also note that the bell housing has been "modified" by Rennaisanceman over on USMB in order to better fit the EA71 case! (Extra material was added to make sure it will seal properly, which was something I was concerned about).

 

Now indeed there is a coolant passage issue:

 

headgasketcheck.jpg

 

HOWEVER, I also discovered that the Weber manifold is too short... Which is going to be a HUGE problem :(

 

The good news is that the driver side window and transmission case from the other car are on the way as well, so I should have everything I need in order to complete this car shortly!

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You might be able to machine adapter plates to make the manifold work. You'd have the plate bolt to the head with countersunk allen bolts then the manifold bolts to threaded holes in the plate. the passage inside the adapter plate would need to go like this / /

 

As soon as I heard FF1 in a junkyard in PA, I knew exactly which yard. They get the best parts there. I haven't been there in a while or I would have spotted the FF1. I'm going there today for some parts, I'll check it out.

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