Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...

[Dirk]

Have you tried asking on mini forums?

 

A guy in town here managed to squeeze a honda Vtec engine into a mini clubman. The radiator is a work of art. Very spendy I'm sure but maybe there are cheaper options.

[Kostamojen]

Haven't gotten that desperate yet. Still hoping I can fit a early 70's radiator, but I need measurements to confirm.

[Turbone]

Try looking at motorcycle radiators?

[Quidam]

I only have a 27" x 13" space to work with. If its any taller than 13" total, I can't use it

 

Hey Kostaman,

 

I see your water pump is on the drivers side, but I don't see your thermostat housing...If you end up with transmission cooler tubes you can delete them one way or another. I've capped them before and the caps blow off. I would be inclined to cut them short and crimp them. But not so tight that it can't breath in and out.

 

Anyway, here's the measurements for an EA-82. And if I understand the situation, you had two radiators originally and you've raised the compression ratio. You'll have a little more heat to reject than the original motor with the increase in CR. I believe a 1.8 rad in the size listed below would cool that little beast just fine.

 

Core Size: 25 3/8 x 12 3/4

 

Inlet Connection1 3/16 Right

 

Outlet Connection 1 3/16 Left

 

Mounting: Top Flange / Bottom Pin (Two pins sit in rubber dougnuts and two bolts hold the top via brackets).

 

hth sort it out for you.

 

Doug

 

Ford Escort rads are simular size, but the in/out is wrong.

 

A Genuine Subaru rad for manual trans is listed on ebay. He has about 40 of them or something. $90.00 shipped.

 

OEM PART# 45111GA650

1 car radiator for Leone/Loyale 84-89

2 DPI No.: 1946

3 OEM No.: 45111GA650/45111GA660/45111GA680

4 manual transmission

5 core size: 642 mm x 318 mm x 16 mm

 

It doesn't say plastic or metal tanks. I'd wager those are plastic tho. I prefer metal.

Link, if you want to look. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400155322110&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Edited July 23, 2011 by Quidam

[Kostamojen]

Is the actual height of that 12 3/4", or is that the "radiator core" size? I've seen in the service manuals they list the "core size" for some of the model years of radiators, but I can't tell if thats the actual physical external dimensions or not.

 

I'd love to use a newer, larger size radiator like that. The inlet/outlet are in the correct locations too. But the height is what has me worried, I need to know exactly how tall they are.

[Kostamojen]

Just did a quick search, luckily someone had a thread about the radiator dimensions:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=716957&postcount=3

 

29 x 15 is too big

 

I need 27 x 13 or less...

[Dirk]

This one from an EA81: 720mm x 386mm overall 28 1/3 X 15"

 

inlet and outlet: 27mm ID and 30mm OD

 

See the flanges top and bottom are about 20mm. You could cut these off and gain 40mm. (1 1/5")

 

Edited July 23, 2011 by Dirk

[Quidam]

I see. hummm.

 

Doug

[Kostamojen]

I need the flanges for mounting though.

 

I just had someone measure the radiator from a '74, and its only 12.5" tall INCLUDING the flanges. So they increased the size in '75. I need to find one of those ones from the 72-74 if thats even possible (still waiting for Danny to get back to me about what other radiators he has).

[Kostamojen]

Here is a more graphical representation of the space I actually have to work with:

 

 

This photo shows the underside of the hood where the silver looking bare metal brace I have is in place. It just fits perfect within the hood, nothing can on on the front of it or top of it without hitting the hood. HOWEVER, I could mount the radiator somehow to the rear of the bracket.

 

 

And here is a photo of the car with the grill and valence on. Had to put them on to make sure of clearances for the radiator. I actually have been using boxes to check distances and such as to what angles the radiator can sit at and how it will fit.

 

[Dirk]

How do feel about modifying a rad yourself?

 

I think the EA81 rad could be made shorter without too much trouble.

 

Changing its width could be a little more tricky but it could be done.

 

Do you have access to brazing equipment?

[Kostamojen]

How do feel about modifying a rad yourself?

 

I think the EA81 rad could be made shorter without too much trouble.

 

Changing its width could be a little more tricky but it could be done.

 

Do you have access to brazing equipment?

That doesn't sound like something I want to try...

 

I mean, I can cut and modify the brackets no problem. But the core of the bigger radiators is as big as the space I have which means theres no room for it to mount anywhere.

 

If I had one on hand I could test fit it and have a better idea, but then theres also the issue of fitting a fan... I need a rather skinny fan too.

[Crazyeights]

Look at one from a 70's or early 80's Audi. From memory some of those might just be about right. Perhaps a Fox, 100, or even a VW Dasher from that era.

[Quidam]

Look at one from a 70's or early 80's Audi. From memory some of those might just be about right. Perhaps a Fox, 100, or even a VW Dasher from that era.

 

Something like that may work. Here's the dimensions for a VW Rabbit. RADIATOR, 1-ROW -- 21.25 x 12 x 1.25 in. core size, 1.25 in. inlet size, 1.25 in. outlet size, 1.88 x 12.63 in. top header, 1.88 x 12.63 in. bottom header, plastic tanks, aluminum core, top right inlet location, bottom right outlet location; Without transmission and engine oil cooler;

[Quidam]

Here's another picture.

 

Note that it doesn't have a filler neck. I know of some Fords and Chevys that are the same way. Moroso makes an inline filler neck and I know of some Fords and Chevys that came factory the same way.

 

Doug

Of course, you would have to run the supply hose to the water pump across the front bottom of the motor.

[Kostamojen]

No filler neck, outlet on the wrong side, no mounts I can actually use... Ya, that one wont work.

[Quidam]

No filler neck, outlet on the wrong side, no mounts I can actually use... Ya, that one wont work.

 

But it would fit. You could use a copper/brass VW Rabbit Diesel rad and switch the suction fitting to the drivers side.

 

1975-1975 VOLKSWAGEN SCIROCCO 1.5L L4 GAS ; WITH COPPER BRASS

2 ROW

DIMENSION: 18 7/8 X 12 5/8 X 1 1/4

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1977-1980-VW-RABBIT-RADIATOR-1-5L-L4-DIESEL-75-SCIROCCO-/150621020037?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Submodel%3ACustom%7CModel%3ARabbit&hash=item2311b65f85

Edit:Add a fill neck to the rad? There are several options for the cap and fill. On the manifold with the thermostat, inline, add one to this rad?

 

You don't need a custom aluminum. Edit: Well, could be you do to get the fit you want. But if you took that rad to a rad shop, they could fix you up with custom fit for a relatively small price. Refinish after they work it over and all.

 

Hummm

Edited July 23, 2011 by Quidam

[Subafreak]

13 1/2 x 26 1/2. Gen 1 1400 radiator.

 

That's the overall dimensions. Keep in mind the lower hose comes strait out the left side of these radiators. So you will need enough to loop the lower hose around.

[Kostamojen]

That 13 1/2 is including the upper and lower brackets right?

 

Ya, I know about that hose... Not sure how well it will fit with that side location but I'd have to have it to check it.

[Subafreak]

13 1/2 is from the bottom strip to the top of the radiator cap. The lower mounts stick down about another 1/2 inch and then the mounting pins stick down I'm guessing another 1/2 inch below that. I just measured it in the car. The top mounts just bolt thru the top strip. You could easily cut the lower mounts off and bolt them thru the strip as well.

In guessing on of these is gonna be your best bet.

[Subafreak]

Ohh. On second look at your pic there it seems even the 1400 radiator would be a tough fit. The length is gonna put you above your front cross member space, and at that point the hight will be to much. Not to mention the side mounted lower hose would make this really tight.

[Kostamojen]

 

Just got back my custom made brake lines

Ohh. On second look at your pic there it seems even the 1400 radiator would be a tough fit. The length is gonna put you above your front cross member space, and at that point the hight will be to much. Not to mention the side mounted lower hose would make this really tight.

Its hard to tell, if the radiator isn't too wide It can slide over to the passanger side some to fit the hose. But another option could be have that outlet modified at a radiator shop.

[Kostamojen]

Finished the brake lines and did some brake bleeding. I'll probably have to do it again after seeing if anything leaks (I think there might be a leak).

 

Also got a couple other things done in the engine bay, but on other good news I might have a radiator soon

 

Bad news is I still don't have anyone to help with the wiring so I don't know when that will get done (if ever)...

 

[rain_man_rich]

Tonight my wife watched a movie. In a week she probably will not even think of it again. Also tonight, I read this thread (most of it anyways). In a year I will still be inspired your efforts and devotion. Thank you for documenting this.

[Numbchux]

Tonight my wife watched a movie. In a week she probably will not even think of it again. Also tonight, I read this thread (most of it anyways). In a year I will still be inspired your efforts and devotion. Thank you for documenting this.

 

This is awesome. While not my exact experience, it perfectly describes how I feel about this project!!

 

Bad news is I still don't have anyone to help with the wiring so I don't know when that will get done (if ever)...

 

Keep at it. Ask any and every car guy you know and trust for recommendations about wiring. They would not have to know anything specific about subarus, as it's just lighting, gauges, and a simple carbed engine. There has to be someone fairly local to you that's got a knack for wiring and a passion for unique projects like this that would come give you a hand. I've said it before, and I'm absolutely serious: If I were local to you, I would do it on my own time. It'd probably only take an afternoon to do.

 

 

If you'd like, I could probably make up a wiring diagram for it, and point you in the right direction for some quality parts to do it right.