JT95 Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 OK--I started to work on my CV shaft replacements today. Holy sh*t, how the heck do you get those axel nuts off??!!? I've got my 32mm socket on a decent length 1/2" breaker bar, and that booger isn't budging. There's no reverse-threading on these things, right? Lefty loosey I assume... I just bought a propane torch from Wally-World. Tried heating it a little, but still wouldn't budge. How long is a reasonable time to heat it for expected results? I'm not Hulk Hogan by any means, but I'm not too wimpy either--at least I didn't think so until now. 190lbs. I got the tire compressed tight against the garage floor as I jerk, tug, push, or stand, but no budge on the nut. I don't have an air ratchet. My compressor is too small to juice one with any oomph. My car is a '95. Any other tips for getting these axel nuts loosened? I was all geared up to tear into this job, and I can't even get past step one... The Haynes manual says to put the car in drive and have somebody sit on the brake while you loosen the axel nut? Does that make any difference? I toasted the CV joint, so putting it in drive does nothing but make a nasty noise, so I didn't want the car started anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru360 Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Use a length of pipe on the end of the breaker bar if you don't have an impact gun and compressor strong enough to break them loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82glsw Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 +1 on the length of pipe. just did the axle on my 91 and i did not think the nut would come off either until i used a 4 foot pipe on the breaker bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT95 Posted September 24, 2007 Author Share Posted September 24, 2007 OK--I'm off to snag a piece of pipe. We'll see if this gets me anywhere--hopefully not the chiropractor's office. Someone mentioned elsewhere that he ended up cutting the bolt off. If nothing else works, what's the best way to do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 It is truly amazing the amount of extra leverage you can get by adding a 4foot bar to the end of your half inch drive handle. It is truly the next best thing to use if you don't have an impact wrench. Squirt on some PB Blaster if you see any rust around the nut. Even using a smaller 3/8" drive, I will add an 18" bar over the end of the handle to gain extra leverage. Makes all tight bolts/nuts a lot easier to remove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT95 Posted September 24, 2007 Author Share Posted September 24, 2007 Oh, and another related question. I currently have my FWD fuse in, because I had one tire go completely to crap--(put two new on the back), but was waiting to swap in new CV shafts and then get the front two replaced w/ an alignment. (And the outer CV joint busted up before I got around to doing the swap.) So, in FWD mode, the car does nothing but make a nast grinding noise when put in drive. If it put it back to AWD, would it be drivable at a low speed? Would doing so screw anything up in the tranny? If I could drive it, there's a big-rig garage a mile down the road, and maybe they could bust the nuts loose for me if I could drive it there. However, I'm too nervous about screwing something else up to put it back to AWD and trying to drive it. So, I'm asking before I consider trying that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82glsw Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 id try the large pipe b4 u try driving it since its make a bad noise when u put it in drive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Impact tool normally works best. 4 foot pipe usually works. Today at Pull a Part I found one that wouldn't come apart. I pulled it with the hub intending to do it at home and return the hub since I didn't need it. It took my neighbor's air impact tool (rated for 600 ft-lbs) over 20 seconds to get the nut off (I had soaked it with rust pentrant before-hand also). Sometimes they are put on with an impact tool. Totally un-necessary; it just makes it harder to get it off next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kilroy Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 +1 on the length of pipe. just did the axle on my 91 and i did not think the nut would come off either until i used a 4 foot pipe on the breaker bar Same here, I used a 4 foot length of pipe over my 1/2" ratchet. There was no way it would budge with anything smaller and I didn't think it would ever come off, but I slowly applied pressure and it suddenly came loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 the EJ series stuff has a notch that's bent in as well, i assume you bent that out of the way if it's there? 3/4" socket is the proper hand tool to use on this job. i've broken 2 1/2" sockets and one 1/2" breaker bar. 1/2" is not the proper tool to use, but it does work most of the time. when i finally got a 3/4" set i could have beat myself for not doing it sooner and i have air tools but that's not always easy to lug around or take with you. that being said, i've gotten 1/2" to work plenty of times too. a large pipe is necessary. another option is to put a jack under the handle and use the jack to put the stank to it. often if they're really bad though you'll still need the breaker bar and the jack. HEAT - HUGE, HUGE, this is your friend. heat the nut, and the nut only, for about 1 minute. helps immensely. heat it and immediately give it all you got to get it off. ideally you want to try and break it loose when the nut is hottest relative to the axle threads. eventually the heat from the nut will heat up the axle threads as well and won't help you if you overheat it or wait too long such that they are both hot...you know that whole entropy nonsense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 After I put my roller jack handle on my breaker bar the nut was the easiest part of the job. I was looking for four feet of pipe and the handle was right in front of me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 the EJ series stuff has a notch that's bent in as well, i assume you bent that out of the way if it's there? 3/4" socket is the proper hand tool to use on this job. i've broken 2 1/2" sockets and one 1/2" breaker bar. 1/2" is not the proper tool to use, but it does work most of the time. when i finally got a 3/4" set i could have beat myself for not doing it sooner and i have air tools but that's not always easy to lug around or take with you. that being said, i've gotten 1/2" to work plenty of times too. a large pipe is necessary. another option is to put a jack under the handle and use the jack to put the stank to it. often if they're really bad though you'll still need the breaker bar and the jack. HEAT - HUGE, HUGE, this is your friend. heat the nut, and the nut only, for about 1 minute. helps immensely. heat it and immediately give it all you got to get it off. ideally you want to try and break it loose when the nut is hottest relative to the axle threads. eventually the heat from the nut will heat up the axle threads as well and won't help you if you overheat it or wait too long such that they are both hot...you know that whole entropy nonsense. I've been toying with getting a3/4" breaker bar but the cost has kept me away. I'm waiting until I find one at Harbor Freight or Sears has a big sale again. I've broken two 1/2" drives also, but they are Craftsman so the replacement is just a quick ride to Sears and back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 I've been toying with getting a3/4" breaker bar well all i can say is you're not wasting your time thinking and looking. might want to price some 3/4" socket wrenches and sockets. that's what i got from a general tool supplier, can't recall the name but they sell all sorts of equipment. they may have better pricing on that stuff. i know i didn't pay anywhere close to $100 for the wrench and a set of 6 sockets. you could probably get just the wrench and source the one size nut you need to save a few bucks off of what i did too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Yes as mentioned make sure the axle nut is 'unstaked', else it won't budge. Penetrating oil and heat can make it easier. I've used a 3/4" breaker bar from Sears and a 32mm 6pt Armstrong socket from mcmaster.com A small compressor can operate an air impact wrench in short bursts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron917 Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Check a local tool rental place. You might be able to rent the 3/4" breaker and socket for a reasonable price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Or autozone or similar place may have them available for free loan. Esentially in those cases you buy the tool and if you return it within the prescribed time they will refund your money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virrdog Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Also don't forget to let the penetrant do its job. Soak it. Try to loosen a few times. Soak again. Let it sit over night. It's amazing how more time for the penetrant can help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickensheets Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Drive to the nearest tire shop and have them crack them for you. Drive home and finish job. rd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fnlyfnd Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Don't do this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT95 Posted September 25, 2007 Author Share Posted September 25, 2007 Thanks for all the tips, guys. Geez, those things were boogers... I went to Lowe's and bought a 4' piece of pipe, slid it over the breaker bar, and after some serious tugging/pushing, I got the bolts to break free. Now, the real fun has begun... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Glad to have helped. Save that 4 foot length of pipe. You never know when that pipe will be the needed tool in the future. Good luck on finishing the rest of your repair project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 I used to do the whole 4ft breaker bar thing... ended up breaking alot of bars and sockets... whenever i need it done i just roll up to a local shop, and ask them nicely to throw their 800ftlb impact gun on it for a second, and the zip it back on... that way they do all the hard work, and when you get home, you can just pop it off yeah yeah, i'm lazy in my old age Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 yeah yeah, i'm lazy in my old age Uh..d00d your age says 22! haha. Yes the 4 ft pipe is not a tool in itself necessarily, but it does help hand tools to work better! Like those old BASF commercials.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickensheets Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 I used to do the whole 4ft breaker bar thing... ended up breaking alot of bars and sockets... whenever i need it done i just roll up to a local shop, and ask them nicely to throw their 800ftlb impact gun on it for a second, and the zip it back on... that way they do all the hard work, and when you get home, you can just pop it off yeah yeah, i'm lazy in my old age Great minds think alike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 Uh..d00d your age says 22! . Yeah i know, soooo Old :-p But yeah, Free + 35 seconds vs Pain in the rump roast dealing w/ breaker bars... you do the math Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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