...Now the CEL is just blinking...

[kellen]

a few days ago my car was telling me code 13 and 32- cam angle sensor and O2 sensor... Now that i've changed my timing belt... its just blinking steadily when I plug in the OBD1 system.

 

The blinks are the same duration as the long blink indicating 10 second intervals. Just blinks forever.

 

i looked in my manual and couldn't find why..

 

Any ideas?

[82glsw]

did u reset the codes once u did the belts

[kellen]

Yes, if the proper way to do that is unplugging the battery for 30 seconds.

(the batt was removed for 24 hours)

 

If I do a D-check, would that fix it?

 

D-check? how do I do a D-checK?

 

K

[82glsw]

Yes, if the proper way to do that is unplugging the battery for 30 seconds.

(the batt was removed for 24 hours)

 

If I do a D-check, would that fix it?

 

D-check? how do I do a D-checK?

 

K

 

i have always reset the codes by just pulling the battery.

 

but the test and memory connectors are located under the dash below the steering wheel. if u connect both connectors with the car running it should reset the codes if everything was fixed. i believe the connectors are white and green.

[Manarius]

Yes, if the proper way to do that is unplugging the battery for 30 seconds.

(the batt was removed for 24 hours)

 

If I do a D-check, would that fix it?

 

D-check? how do I do a D-checK?

 

K

The proper way to do the reset is to pull the battery for at least 45 minutes. Plug it back in. Start the engine and leave the car in park or neutral for 10 minutes (or until the car gets warm) without touching the throttle. Then turn off the car.

 

Make sure none of the plugs for the ECU are plugged together (like black to black or black to green or etc).

[SuperNova]

The proper way to do the reset is to pull the battery for at least 45 minutes. Plug it back in. Start the engine and leave the car in park or neutral for 10 minutes (or until the car gets warm) without touching the throttle. Then turn off the car.

 

Make sure none of the plugs for the ECU are plugged together (like black to black or black to green or etc).

 

Well, thats not exactely the proper way to reset the codes! You actually need to put it in "Clear Memory Mode". 1st warm up the car. Turn the ignition off, and plug in both the Test mode connector(green) and the Read memory connector(white or clear). Turn the ignition on (engine off) and if your CEL turns on, push your gas pedal to the floor then let off to half throttle for 2 seconds then completely let off and start the car. If the CEL goes out, drive the car above 5mph for at least 1 minute above 1,500rpm and if your CEL blinks then it worked and your codes are clear. Turn off your car and unplug both connectors. And if you still have a light than your ecu is throwing a code.

I know this is confusing but this is the proper way to reset your code memory. This procedure is straight out of the Subaru Service Manual.

Also unplugging your battery does reset the ECU, this is called "flashing". But you dont just disconnect the battery, push and hold the brake pedal to drain the internal ecu memory battery. You only have to hold it for a minute or so. 30 sec usually works for me. This is to completely reset the ECU, not just clear codes. And if you still need to know how to put the ecu in D-check, let me know. Hope this info has helped!

[Manarius]

Well, thats not exactely the proper way to reset the codes! You actually need to put it in "Clear Memory Mode". 1st warm up the car. Turn the ignition off, and plug in both the Test mode connector(green) and the Read memory connector(white or clear). Turn the ignition on (engine off) and if your CEL turns on, push your gas pedal to the floor then let off to half throttle for 2 seconds then completely let off and start the car. If the CEL goes out, drive the car above 5mph for at least 1 minute above 1,500rpm and if your CEL blinks then it worked and your codes are clear. Turn off your car and unplug both connectors. And if you still have a light than your ecu is throwing a code.

I know this is confusing but this is the proper way to reset your code memory. This procedure is straight out of the Subaru Service Manual.

Also unplugging your battery does reset the ECU, this is called "flashing". But you dont just disconnect the battery, push and hold the brake pedal to drain the internal ecu memory battery. You only have to hold it for a minute or so. 30 sec usually works for me. This is to completely reset the ECU, not just clear codes. And if you still need to know how to put the ecu in D-check, let me know. Hope this info has helped!

Resetting the ECU clears the codes anyways. I figure that starting from fresh is better than just clearing the codes out.

[Setright]

I'm with SuperNova. It's a much more elegant way of clearing codes.

[WAWalker]

A steady blinking Check Engine Ligh means there are no codes stored in the memory.

[SuperNova]

Resetting the ECU clears the codes anyways. I figure that starting from fresh is better than just clearing the codes out.

True, but the ECU is a learning computer. It adjusts and learns the way you drive and makes everything run better miles down the road. So if you clear everything, it may not run right until you go for a drive.

[SuperNova]

A steady blinking Check Engine Ligh means there are no codes stored in the memory.

Well, it can mean a few things. When you are in D-check it means that there are no problems present in the system (its not throwing any codes). If the whole procedure was done correctly.

[Manarius]

True, but the ECU is a learning computer. It adjusts and learns the way you drive and makes everything run better miles down the road. So if you clear everything, it may not run right until you go for a drive.

The 10 minute period of idle I mentioned is the "relearn" part for the ECU.

[SuperNova]

The 10 minute period of idle I mentioned is the "relearn" part for the ECU.

Dude, im not trying to be an a**, you didnt know how to put your car in D-check and now your saying it learns by sitting there idling. Ive just been trying to help you out. You ECU learns while you drive, its constantly adapting to conditions and how heavy your foot is on the pedal. Letting it sit and idle is not going to help it to learn. All the sensors put out different signals from idle to higher rpm, and the ecu compensates for this. It Learns! But dont just take it from me, do a little more reading and research, thats all ive been doing for 3 weeks now because of the problems with my car. Find the FSM, the link is on USMB somewhere posted by General Disorder. Again, all ive been trying to do is help.

[Manarius]

Dude, im not trying to be an a**, you didnt know how to put your car in D-check and now your saying it learns by sitting there idling. Ive just been trying to help you out. You ECU learns while you drive, its constantly adapting to conditions and how heavy your foot is on the pedal. Letting it sit and idle is not going to help it to learn. All the sensors put out different signals from idle to higher rpm, and the ecu compensates for this. It Learns! But dont just take it from me, do a little more reading and research, thats all ive been doing for 3 weeks now because of the problems with my car. Find the FSM, the link is on USMB somewhere posted by General Disorder. Again, all ive been trying to do is help.

Read up bud: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html#resetecu

 

If you're saying that's wrong - you're saying the FSM is wrong. That's where Josh (Legacy777) got the info from.

 

I would highly suggest you not question where I'm getting my information - I've read *a lot of posts over the past 2 years and I think I deserve a little bit of recognition for that. I don't pass bad info - at least not willingly.

[OB99W]

SuperNova and Manarius -- you're both right, in part. If the ECU memory is completely cleared, it needs to relearn a lot. Just letting the car idle for sufficient time allows the engine management system to go from open-loop to closed-loop operation, providing some data for the ECU. However, there are certainly thing that take driving a while for the ECU to have good working data; for example, long term fuel trim (LTFT) is one.