scrapdaddytatum Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 the car 1990 xt6 manual trans, lsd, locking center, air ride, 16" rims, wrx brakes, intake and full exhuast, normally this is a solid car, no issues, clock work reliable the alt kicks the bucket i replace it, recharge battery and fire her up she is a little groggy but warms up ok i drive her to the store and back right when i get home i hear this loud buzzing, beebing sound and the check engine light comes on i disconect the battery and let her cool down hook the battery up and repeat, same ************ happens the motor will start loping and dipping, the light comes on and off the power steering light will flash intermitant during all this ive checked all the fluids, all the fusses, everything i can think to check, when she runs she runs great, then she just starts freaking out all ways with the beeping too, and the ecu never does anything but double flash green, nothing else im lost any help out there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superwho Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 When you say the alternator "kicked the bucket", was it overcharging? I would have to guess if it were overcharging it may have fried a sensor somewhere maybe. Also have you checked ALL your ground wires for good contact? We see a lot of problems at our shop on new cars when even one bad ground is present. Wreaks havoc on tranny's too, big time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 Where did you buy the alternator and was it new or rebuilt? I would take it back and have them test it. Cause it sure sounds like a bad one to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superwho Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 Where did you buy the alternator and was it new or rebuilt?I would take it back and have them test it. Cause it sure sounds like a bad one to me. Good point. We have about a 50% return rate for defective parts at our local supplier. Just cause its new don't mean its better than the one you took off nowadays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j2coe Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 when you disconnect the battery it clears the codes from the ECU. did you check them before you disconnected the battery to let it cool down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrapdaddytatum Posted September 26, 2007 Author Share Posted September 26, 2007 alt is good and charging fine the alt died, as in,it stoped charging so no overcharge issue i have checked my grounds thats not it it acts like a sensor, like tps or cam but i dont know how to get codes out of it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 Did you check and replace the white connector to the Alt??? That has been a very common problem with charging issues and the destroyer of many an Alt and Battery...All with a few different symptoms all depending on the degree of corrosion and deterioration. It should not look like this: Also.while we are at it check for seperation in your crank pulley..I doubt this will cause the issues you are having but wanted to bring it up since its another common problem ..that is unless you already have a welded one..If not draw a line from the center out..run the car and when you turn it off check to see if the line still lines up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrapdaddytatum Posted September 26, 2007 Author Share Posted September 26, 2007 ill replace the plug today, and look and the pulley too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chef_tim Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 Did you have the battery tested? I've had alts that go bad from a battery with a shorted cell and I've had batteries go bad from a fried alt. Just a thought, Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrapdaddytatum Posted September 26, 2007 Author Share Posted September 26, 2007 ill get the battery tested too, but its new Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 Sounds alot like the ECU is not getting its 12 volts. Seem to recall it is designed to function with as little as 10 volts but below that you start getting your symptoms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrapdaddytatum Posted September 26, 2007 Author Share Posted September 26, 2007 my alt plug was cooked but i replaced it, checked battery, its ok, i still get that beeping sound plus check engine light comes and goes, how do i get codes out of this beast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benebob Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 my alt plug was cooked but i replaced it, checked battery, its ok, i still get that beeping sound plus check engine light comes and goes, how do i get codes out of this beast Turn the key to on, go in the trunk and connect the green plug by the computer or maybe its the black plugs, one is stored codes, other is active. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Use the green one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrapdaddytatum Posted September 28, 2007 Author Share Posted September 28, 2007 ok green gave a double flash and nothing else black gave me codes 33/35/51, the 51 is it being in nuetral 33 is a speed sensor 35 is purge control syl car runs fine except for the occasionla lope any help here i dont even know where these sensors are Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 How much do you know about fuel injection systems Theory and Function? How much would you like to learn? This isn't going to be a direct help to you in your problems, like it would be if I could simply tell you how to fix the problems on your car (i cannot) BUT its background knowledge that helps you understand how the car works, and how it can FAIL to work... its a link to parts of the 89 GL FSM Engine sections.. yah, its for the four cylinder, and yah, its for SPFI, but parts of the MPFI sections are there, and the important part is the theory of operation. http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm find Subaru EA82 parts 1 and 2, open the second file, and go to the Fuel systems chapter, and just read. Read slowly, go back and re read paragraphs that didnt make 100% sense, and if you have to, re read it in a week or two. It is easy reading (unlike some factory service manuals) and a good explanation on "how it works." It may or may not help you in your current problems, but it sure cannot hurt. hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 One speed sensor is in the rear of the transmission (VSS1) and the other in the dash (VSS2). Purge control thingee is that cannister by the headlight. These are old stored codes so just ignore them. By old I mean could be 15 or more years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Can you pinpoint where the beeping sound is originating from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j2coe Posted September 29, 2007 Share Posted September 29, 2007 the purge control solenoid is actually attached to one of the vaccume lines coming off the canister thing. it controls the vacume to the cannister. it should be on the back of the passenger side of the intake manifold and also have an electrical connection plugged to it. its a metal square thing with two vaccume lines and a small vent/filter on one end if it hasn't been broken off. it's hard to find since its sort of under other things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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