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BOV = vrrrrrmmmmm psssss


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:banana:

 

Yeah, we are full of fuction before form here. Not like those ricer boys, where function follows form....from a long ways behind...on a dusty road, with bad directions.

 

We are on the other spectrum! Just look at my RX! Fast, grips like hell, looks like hell!

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so what'd ya do, drill a hole, weld a pipe in there and mount it?

 

mine sounds just like its got a BoV with just an hks air filter.. got rid of that crappy air box, and noticed a huge difference in power.. i figured since the rx is running straight pipe with a cat, i should free up the intake end of things.. boy did that help..

 

 

Pleadies, you got a 2wd wagon? can tell by the intake unless ya changed it..

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Hey dude...

On your BOV...Where did you run that 8mm vacuum hose on top of the BOV???

I understand you run it to somewhere on your intake manifold that has +/- vacuum pressure (to hold it closed, or open it)

I have an EA81t, so it's a little different than the EA82t but, hopefully someone can help.

 

Cya

Dan

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I read on a website that using a Bypass valve on a hot wire MAF car is better than using a BOV. It said that when a BOV releases into the atmospere that it makes the car run richer, because it makes the ECU think that it is burnt and draws more fresh air in. A bypass valve vents it back into the intake behind the MAF and would make it run a little leaner, but maybe more precise. I was wondering if anyone had experienced this with any results.

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The reasons I'm going with a stock WRX bypass valve (instead of an atmospheric BOV) on my car are:

 

1) Any bypass/blowoff valve in general is a good idea to prevent pressurized air from reversing through the turbo (when the throttle plate slams shut) and thus shortens its life (and this also slows the turbo which causes more lag).

 

2) A bypass valve doesn't make the infamous BOV "pssshhhh" noise, which makes for a much better sleeper effect.

 

3) For some reason, MAF cars get particularly annoyed when some of the air they just measured gets fired off into the atmosphere and nobody informs the ECU of this fact...LOL

 

4) Since the bypass valves recirculate the air instead (by releasing it back into the system between the MAF and the turbo inlet), it actually keeps the turbo spooled better than an atmospheric setup.

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I agree with most everything Shane said about the recirc valve vs atmospheric.

 

However, I have no off throttle stumble or anything with the current setup, so i'm staying this route for now. I wonder how the car is running for the kid up in Asheville who put the RFL on his.

 

On a side note: (ROFL....)

 

The fun has truely begun! I decided to up the boost a bit to further my 'research'. So the car is hitting about 15psi and holding 13psi or so. Well that's in first gear anyway. Then when you lift to change gears, the bov pops and you stand on it again it blows the vaccum line to the bov off of the manifold! ROFL.... Guess it's time for a few claps on some of the vaccum lines! I thought it was odd how the bov went away after first gear. Fun! :burnout: :burnout:

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Originally posted by mitch184

I read on a website that using a Bypass valve on a hot wire MAF car is better than using a BOV. It said that when a BOV releases into the atmospere that it makes the car run richer, because it makes the ECU think that it is burnt and draws more fresh air in. A bypass valve vents it back into the intake behind the MAF and would make it run a little leaner, but maybe more precise. I was wondering if anyone had experienced this with any results.

 

I did this on my GL-10. Runs like its stock. Runs like **** with it venting.

 

Same results on the RX

 

]Originally posted by warp3

3) For some reason, MAF cars get particularly annoyed when some of the air they just measured gets fired off into the atmosphere and nobody informs the ECU of this fact...LOL

 

So true. The RX was REALLY bad about this. The GL-10 only at idle, and certin 'back onto the throt lighty' situations.

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All my reading agrees with the BPV being better for our cars than the BOV. Most Euro manufacturers run them (Saab, Volvo) Mine is off of a Volvo.

BTW if the dash pot on a turbo car is adjusted properly, it relieves a large portion of the reverberated wave that is causing the turbo shock. (Subarus way out when designing for only 8 psi.)

Mine is pictured in the lower left

 

willyslump.jpg

Plumbed back into the custom MAF to turbo pipe.

Hope this helps

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Originally posted by pleiades

I wonder how the car is running for the kid up in Asheville who put the RFL on his.

 

Talkin' about me? The car is running great, absolutely no problems whatsoever and I've driven it alternating with my RS for the last few weeks.

 

It's holding 13lbs of boost strong in every gear. I'm in the process of fashioning a hood scoop and 2.25" straight pipe from the d/p back right now.

 

For those that don't know, it's a 1992 Loyale with...

- 1987 RX Engine/Transmission

- WRX intercooler

- turboxs rfl bov

- mbc set @ 13 psi

- removed intake silencer

- FWD for the time being, will go back to 4WD when I have it all hooked up

 

The only problem right now is traction, in it's current state it will roast 1st gear, spin all the way through 2nd, and bark 3rd when I'm on it hard. So I usually don't fully lay on it until about 4 grand in 2nd.

 

Picture...

scott_rxsmoke.JPG

 

Scott

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