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Weber Jetting question


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Well guys ive been dealing with this hessitation/bucking problem for awhile and finally got fed up and called the guy i bought it from; Bigjim. He's a great guy and I told him that the car was hessitating like it was running out of fuel at 1500rpm's and it wasnt very smooth after that either unless i reved it quick to get by that spot. Well his feeling on it was my idle jet was too small so i told him that i had a #50 idle jet so he sent me a 55 and a 60. I tried the 55 first and it helped a bit but not entirely. So i tried the 60 and what that did was move my hessitation up from 1500 to 2500rpm's.

 

My question is this..Does this mean that my idle jetting was fine and that i need to be concentrate on the primary jetting? My reasoning is that now im getting more fuel down low so it moved my hessitation up the rpm range. Im not even sure what jetting i would need to get to solve my problem. Im just running the jetting that came in the kit for the EA81.

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The saga continues. I called big jim up again. He thought i should check the float level now. The float level was way off. Its a plastic float so it should be at 35mm from the top. It was too far down not giving the car enough fuel. Well i bent it as much as i could in the short time i had and threw it all back together. I think instead of 35mm its 37 or something close. I kno it should be exact but i didnt have the time. It might run a "bit" better but not much. I still dont know whats going on. Is there an easy way to check to see if my distributor advance is working correctly? That might be another cause.

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Is there an easy way to check to see if my distributor advance is working correctly? That might be another cause.

 

remove the cap and suck on the vacuum line going into the dizzy, you'll see it move inside

 

if you don't want to put your mouth on the vacuum line (which I can understand) you can use a big syringe instead ;)

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Plugs only have 10,000 miles on them at most. I'll pull one and check it out though. They are NGK's.

I learned the hard way (VERY VERY HARD WAY) that the nicest looking NGK BPR6ES-11s can STILL be bad. It never hurts to swap em out, and if it makes no difference replace your old plugs and keep the new set as a spare. What do they cost, seven bucks a set?

 

Of course, if you are like me when I had my problem (:banghead:) and unemployed and broke... then its acceptable to ride on the presumption that the plugs are OK.. but if you have any spares around try swapping them out. I haven't had a GREAT deal of experience with various engines myself, but it seems that I hear about people having problems from spark plugs (even NGKs) on these older subarus more than any other vehicle I have known; I personally feel these things are very sensitive to poor spark plug performance.

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Ok breif update. I went out today and took the top of the carb off again. I set the Float EXACTLY where it is supposed to be this time since i had enough free time to wongleflute around for a bit. Then i retuned the carb and advanced the timing just a smig. Good news..the hessitation is almost completly gone. Bad news...i broke the distributor hold down bolt :mad:. So now i need to go drill and tap that hole and put another bolt in it. Yay me!!

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  • 3 weeks later...
remove the cap and suck on the vacuum line going into the dizzy, you'll see it move inside

 

if you don't want to put your mouth on the vacuum line (which I can understand) you can use a big syringe instead ;)

 

Thank you!! News update. I checked the vacuum advance and it was busted so no advance at all. Threw in a spare distibutor and it runs a hell of a lot better now. There is still some bucking though. I think im going to try the spark plugs when get a chance. Since this has kinda gone off topic from its original title ive started a new thread about my situation.

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