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Found a guy two hours away who was selling the configuration I wanted (wagon, EJ22, AWD, 5-speed), checked it out, haggled a little, and drove it home!

 

It's a 1996 Outback with some dents and scratches, but nothing major. I might have paid a little too much, considering it needs new tires, but with how few of this configuration I see for sale, it's alright:

 

obwfront.jpg

 

Interior is still nice.

 

obwint.jpg

 

Engine looks alright. Nothing disconnected or leaking badly.

 

obweng.jpg

 

PO saved all the receipts! Bonus.

 

receipts.jpg

 

So it's a fun car to drive, and should do a lot better in the snow than my old Beretta did!

 

- Scott

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Car looks good, nice to have the po receipts too. Could use a good engine bath. When my motor looks like that, I squirt about a half bottle of dish washing detergent over the motor, then rinse off with a garden hose. Let it sit for a couple of hours with the hood up to let the sun dry off everything before restarting the motor.

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How many miles are on it? MY 95 with the same configuration has 208k on it and purrs like a kitten. Just today when I was driving some people to lunch I got asked, "Does this thing REALLY have 208k on it?" People that have never owned a Subaru are always amazed at how well my car runs and drives. You should have a good amount of life left in yours!

 

Keith

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Car looks good, nice to have the po receipts too. Could use a good engine bath. When my motor looks like that, I squirt about a half bottle of dish washing detergent over the motor, then rinse off with a garden hose. Let it sit for a couple of hours with the hood up to let the sun dry off everything before restarting the motor.

 

 

do you squirt the detergent directly on, or dilude it with a spray bottle? how anal would it get if the alternator gets wet (i got a new alt, so i wouldn't TRY to hit it with water, but just in case) any particular brand of dish detergent?

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A couple more musings/details:

 

The fluids all check out: engine oil, transmission oil, coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, wiper fluid. Haven't checked the rear diff yet, but it's bone-dry on the bottom, so I don't think it's been leaking.

 

The clutch pedal had NO freeplay when I got the car. I adjusted that to about 1/2", and it *seems* to have a little more pep and top end. I might just be imagining that, though... :rolleyes:

 

While adjusting the clutch, I figured out why the Hill-Holder... doesn't. The locknuts on the cable fell off! I'll fix that when I have a little time.

 

I was going to complain about the clutch chatter at intersections, but after searching the site, I guess that's common and I'll just have to work on my technique. I wonder if clamping the tube into a tighter bend might help -- anyone tried it?

 

The shifter is really sloppy as well, but there again, seems like this is common. The brass bushing fix looks promising, but I'll probably not try it until Spring.

 

Cheers!

- Scott

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You're right to be concerned dj3.

 

It's okay to wash your engine down, but I strongly advise covering up your electronics first. Coilpack, alternator, any and all sensors, starter, etc.

 

I hosed my engine down once without covering it up, and the CEL I got afterwards pulled up 6 codes! They went away after it dried off, but I got lucky. I could have ruined something.

 

Anyway, nice score. Car looks clean. Any rust?

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This is probably the most "rust-free" car I've owned. The floor and body panels are completely solid, with almost no rust forming at any edge. Much of the suspension has light surface rust though. Car companies don't seem to be as concerned about rust-proofing that stuff.

 

I'll take some pics of the underside next time it's light out. :)

 

BTW, McBrat, from reading through all the threads about damaged VCs from uneven tires, might it behoove me to buy a spare from your local boneyard? zzz

 

- Scott

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Is that heated cloth seats I see? That's a nice option. Shifter bushings are about 30 bucks from the dealer. The hardest part about replacing them is getting the shifter yoke to come off of the shaft on the tranny. You drive 2 roll pins out and theoretically it slides off the shaft. In reality, a torch, punch and hammer are needed. Looks like a nice car in really good shape.

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Is that heated cloth seats I see? That's a nice option.

 

Yep! It's almost embarrassing though -- I'm usually a proponent of simple, no-frills transportation, and kinda wish it had crank windows, too. Well, you can't have everything. :-p

 

Shifter bushings are about 30 bucks from the dealer. The hardest part about replacing them is getting the shifter yoke to come off of the shaft on the tranny. You drive 2 roll pins out and theoretically it slides off the shaft. In reality, a torch, punch and hammer are needed. Looks like a nice car in really good shape.

 

Good call. That sounds like a better (and cheaper) idea than sourcing all the specialty parts to do bronze bushings. $30 every few years isn't that bad.

 

Thanks! :)

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as soon as you lift the clutch a little it dissengages. I don't see the point.

 

That's because your one is misadjusted. If you adjust the cable right, you can have the brakes release just as the clutch starts to catch, making it so you have like a 6" rollback without touching the handbrake or doing the pedal dance, which for people like me (M14) is a real nice option. Spend some time dialing it in, you might actually like it.

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