Found a clean junkyard EA82 with 110k: What should I snag?

[Syonyk]

I was wandering through the local junkyard, which seldom has anything interesting (no Subarus, no RX-7s, and definitely no Daihatsus).

 

And found a Subaru! Fairly clean red EA82 GL wagon, 110k miles, automatic, and looks like it was sideswiped on the passenger's side (front & rear door have damage down low).

 

Unfortunately, it's going to the crusher soon, so I need to snag stuff Monday (I was going to snag it today, but it was raining last night, and they said it was too busy today to be moving/crushing cars - hopefully he was right).

 

I'm definitely snagging the rear driver's side door & front passenger fender, because those are both damaged on my car (rust/severe dents). I'm considering snagging the hatch, as mine suffered some interesting damage (a corner of it was bent in with a perfect line across it - NO idea what hits hard enough to do that, and it's in an area that will be difficult to fix), but they seem to want money for things.

 

Engine looks clean as well - one of the cleaner EA82 engine bays I've ever seen. I'm definitely snagging a few pieces from in there - intake snorkel, probably the throttle body/fuel injector, power steering pump (mine leaks, badly), and whatever else looks interesting. I'm pondering the entire motor, but I'd want to know if it runs first. I need to pull my motor AGAIN because the *(#&(%ing rear main is still leaking, and I'm less than amused with it. But I'm hesitant to put a junkyard motor in without knowing it's condition. Though, being an EA82, it's probably just fine.

 

My power windows are iffy, so I'm planning to snag the switches and motors, if possible. Are there relays somewhere, or are the windows driven straight off the switches?

 

Any other "really useful parts" I should snag while I'm there?

 

Thanks!

 

-=Russ=-

[mikeshoup]

I threw a 105K mile engine into my coupe that came from a junkyard. The car was hit in the side. I did this though because my engine was blown.

 

Is your EA82 blown? If not, I wouldn't worry about it. Rear mains are easy to replace and cheaper than a whole motor.

 

As far as other useful parts, just grab what you need.

 

If you really want to cover your rump roast, grab spare parts. If the axles are in good shape, may want to grab one for a spare. Grab a coil, the whole throttle body (that way you get everything attached to it), a MAF sensor, EGR and Purge solenoids, and anything else that's cool.

[Syonyk]

Is your EA82 blown? If not, I wouldn't worry about it. Rear mains are easy to replace and cheaper than a whole motor.

 

Nah, runs fine, just leaks a lot of oil. I have to pull the engine to replace it, though. But, you're right, I should probably stay with what I know works.

 

As far as other useful parts, just grab what you need.

 

If you really want to cover your rump roast, grab spare parts. If the axles are in good shape, may want to grab one for a spare. Grab a coil, the whole throttle body (that way you get everything attached to it), a MAF sensor, EGR and Purge solenoids, and anything else that's cool.

 

I've got a box of spare parts off my old '87 GL, with most of that stuff.

 

Oh, how does cruise control work? The junkyard car has the cruise control buttons on the steering wheel - I poked around the engine bay a bit, and couldn't find anything that struck me as "Cruise control" - there was only one cable going to the throttle body.

 

-=Russ=-

[hooziewhatsit]

for the cruise control, I believe there's a vacuum operated thing right over the gas pedal in the car. I think the computer should be over behind the glovebox somewhere. There should also be a vacuum pump in front of the passenger side strut tower.

I have no idea if everything will plug into a non-CC car or not.

 

Relay for the power windows I've heard is under the passenger seat

 

I'd grab the EGR/PCV solenoids, coil, etc, if their prices are decent.

 

-Dave

[baccaruda]

the long block might be worth grabbing if it's fueled the same way that your car's is. Or to resell. 110k is low mileage for a 20+ year old car.

[idosubaru]

the motor is a good score but probably annoying all the work to pull it in a yard and then whatever they want to charge. sad to toss a perfectly good motor though, it's likely fine. you can easily test it before installing - compression and leak down test. if the car was sideswiped though that's a very good indication the motor is fine.

 

Definite snags: Ignition coil. Idle sensors and solenoids. MAF and knock sensor if it has it and if you're not getting the motor, yank the distributor. grab some extra fusible links if you don't have any either. they're $7-$11 a piece at the dealer.

 

Other items: ECU if it's cheap (auto/manual doesn't matter - ECU will run fine in either). might just grab the entire intake manifold if it wants to come off. check the timing belts, maybe there's an off chance they're new. spare timing belt pulleys unless yours are good or you install new ones (which is what i recommend).

[daeron]

fuel pump? check all your light lenses and make sure none of them want replacing... any little interior bits you need? maybe grab a few relays.. the possibilities are endless

[beataru]

trans, Diffs, Wheels, Engine, fuel Pump, all the wires, the blower fan resistors (those are bad i bet though) and everything else on the car that remotely works!!!!!!!!!!!

[Syonyk]

trans, Diffs, Wheels, Engine, fuel Pump, all the wires, the blower fan resistors (those are bad i bet though) and everything else on the car that remotely works!!!!!!!!!!!

 

The problem there is that I strongly suspect I'll get *charged* for all the crap I remove. And removing $2000 of parts is just a bit out of my budget right now.

 

And it's still raining. :-/ If I want stuff, looks like I'm going to be mucking about in mud.

 

I'm actually pondering seeing if they've still got the title. If they haven't officially scrapped it, I may try to get some tires on it & drive it away, if it runs. Pull parts at my leisure, or, better, sell it and buy some parts for mine elsewhere. If it runs and drives, I could fetch $1000 for it around here easily, probably a lot more.

 

-=Russ=-