J A Blazer Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 The inner CV boot, front passenger side, has failed on my 2000 OBW. It seems to be better to replace the entire axle assembly than trying to replace just the boot. How hard a job is this for a reasonbly competent DIYer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 I was able to do it with the instructions from a haynes manuel. The drivers side is easily because the exhaust is not in the way. Just be sure to break the axle nut loose a little bit before raising it up, but not much so you wont damage the bearing. The inner CV boot, front passenger side, has failed on my 2000 OBW. It seems to be better to replace the entire axle assembly than trying to replace just the boot. How hard a job is this for a reasonbly competent DIYer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 Check the USRM, the EJ write-up applies to your OBW. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75785 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 Yes just replace the whole axle. Subaru OEM reman (~$180) or MWE reman axle is good. I just did this job on '00obw; it is not too difficult. The write up linked above is basically what I followed. I removed the strut to bearing housing bolts and was able to get enough clearance to extract the axle. I also replaced the inner wheel bearing seal at this time. Here's some pics from when I did this job: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 Great pics, porcupine. You should post them up on the USRM to supplement the info on axle replacement there. My pics aren't nearly as good or as clear as yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J A Blazer Posted October 18, 2007 Author Share Posted October 18, 2007 It appears that in order to drive out the pin on the DOJ you remove the air filter housing and approach the pin from above, correct? Is that what the series of socket extensions are for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 Yes, I didn't see any practicable way to drive it out from the bottom, so I removed the snorkus stuff. It is kind of tight to swing a hammer down in there. So I used the extensions with the 7/32" pin punch taped into a socket attached to the extensions to drive it out. Drive it out from the non-tapered side, drive it in the tapered side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J A Blazer Posted October 18, 2007 Author Share Posted October 18, 2007 Thanks for your invaluable assistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J A Blazer Posted October 18, 2007 Author Share Posted October 18, 2007 Is the axle nut 32mm, or 36mm? I've seen it described both sizes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backwoodsboy Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 EJ cars = 32mm EA cars = 36mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 To re-emphasize what's likely in the write-up. Mark the top bolt on the strut, as it affects your alignment. If you put it back in the same place you shouldn't need to get it re-aligned. The socket was a 1 1/4 (32mm) on my '90, but that's a distant relative of your OB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 On my '00obw, which should be the same as yours, it was 32mm. Depending on what axle you get, it may or may not come with a new axle nut. I'm not really sure what the difference is, but the manual describes an olive colored nut for the rear I think and a gold colored nut for the front. I ordered a four axle nuts from subarupartsforyou.com, which they the same part # for the front and rear, but I got two gold and two olive. I'd have to see if they showed different part #'s on the bags; or maybe it really doesn't matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J A Blazer Posted October 18, 2007 Author Share Posted October 18, 2007 Is a 2000 Outback wagon an EA, or an EJ? TIA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 Is a 2000 Outback wagon an EA, or an EJ? TIA. EJ. EAs died off w/the Loyale in '94, I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 Mr. Porcupine, that is one rusted nut! Your cars in the NE pay for having clear roads....we in the NW pay w/worn roads from studded snows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 that is one rusted nut! haha yes, you should see the rest of the suspension components! The salt is brutal. I'm not going to drive '00obw in the winter anymore hoping to make it last without visible body rust. We can run studded snows here, but only between like november and march or something; else it's like a $500 ticket if you get caught with them on the freeways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avk Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 Just a reminder that an inner joint, the subject of this thread, can be re-packed, and boot replaced, w/o touching the hub end of the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J A Blazer Posted October 18, 2007 Author Share Posted October 18, 2007 Can you point me to instructions on how to repack and reboot the inner joint without removing the hub end? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avk Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 This is a brief account I posted in a similar thread, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=356687&postcount=10 These instructions can also be found in Haynes and elsewhere. If you have any questions, please let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J A Blazer Posted October 23, 2007 Author Share Posted October 23, 2007 It appears that it is easiest to drive out the DOJ drift pin on the passenger side from above, after removing the air filter housing and snorkel. But on the driver's side, it appears that the starter is in the way of an effort to approach the pin from above. Is it possible to drive the pin out from the bottom on the driver's side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 It might be. I'd say have a looksee from underneath. I know on the drivers side it seemed the exhaust was really in the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 i did both sides this past weekend , and marked the bolts before i started , the car before this would pull to the right , but i have very bad tires all the way around , which side would i adjust to correct this after i get new tires ? the top bolts are for adjustment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J A Blazer Posted October 23, 2007 Author Share Posted October 23, 2007 Since you just did this a few days ago, and hopefully remember how you did it, would you please answer my question? How did you drive out the pin in the inboard axle joint on the driver's side - from above, or from below? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 from below Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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