cd45 Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 OK, I put a manual choke on the Weber today. I thought that would fix it. It didn't. Now it acts like it has a timing problem. I put the timing mark at "0", and looked at the rotor, it was pointing at the number 2 plug. I pulled the ignition, and pointed it at the number 1 plug wire. It refused to start, and started backfiring badly. The vacuum line to the distributor started blowing instead of sucking. I put the ignition back where it was, and at least it starts right up now but, the distributor is at the end of it's adjustment. I moved in on tooth in both directions, and it got better. I thought I had it, but now it has very bad lifter clatter unless you keep the idle below 1500RPM. And now it won't run again. Even with the choke set. Please Help!! I am lost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 What was wrong with the car before that you thought you needed a manual choke? Im just going to state the obvious. From what you said the only two things that you have touched are the distributor and the carburator causing the car not to run anymore. Your lifter clatter didnt start until you started to move the distributor. My reasoning is that your timing is probably way way off now that you moved the distributor one tooth. Put it back to where it was and see if it will start again. Do you have access to a timing gun? Your timing should be 8 degrees. But since you are using a weber you can advance the timing for more power. Im assuming you know that to advance the timing turn the distributor clockwise and to retard it counterclockwise. If you dont have a timing gun just advance the timing till the motor pings under load then back it off a bit till it doesnt. So for quick reference -Put the distributor back where it was and set the timing -Check the carburator..make sure you have it adjusted properly...if u need help with tuning it i can help out since ive been tuning and tuning on mine -Also when was the last time you gave your brat a tuneup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cd45 Posted October 20, 2007 Author Share Posted October 20, 2007 Brought it home last month. Did a good tune up. New NGK plugs, MSD coil, MSD 8mm wires, new cap and rotor, oil and filter change. I will put the distributor back tomorrow, and start over. I put the carb to factory settings. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xoomer Posted October 20, 2007 Share Posted October 20, 2007 I thought that at the three lines it was supposed to be pointing to one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cd45 Posted October 20, 2007 Author Share Posted October 20, 2007 Thanks, I remember that now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seahag1978 Posted October 20, 2007 Share Posted October 20, 2007 Brought it home last month. Did a good tune up. New NGK plugs, MSD coil, MSD 8mm wires, new cap and rotor, oil and filter change. I will put the distributor back tomorrow, and start over. I put the carb to factory settings. Thanks. Did you not listen? NEVER, EVER mess with anything that isn't broken for real. BRATs are strange in that things settle themselves out and when you upset anything they get ornery. Change the oil and put gas in it til something really goes wrong ... otherwise leave it as it is. You will learn how to drive IT... like feathering the gas after a long idle in traffic... high idle at a cold start... don't bother to kick it down until the temp gauge hits half-way... downshifting on a steepish hill... stuff like that... it isn't sophisticated, you need to learn the quirks and go with what the car wants. Both of my BRATs have completely different driving sets I need to use... the Baja is another story... no intervention or learning curve (except a touchy first), press and goooo! Whoooshhh! Stopping with those ABS brakes... not so hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cd45 Posted October 20, 2007 Author Share Posted October 20, 2007 That wasn't it. I checked, there only the main timing lines. I pulled the #1 plug, and made sure that the "0" lined up at the same time. Then I pulled the distributor, and lined the rotor up with #1 wire. I put the plug back, and adjusted the disty until the engine started. It ran pretty good. Then I set the timing with light, and took it for a quick trip. There is a lot of hesitation, but I think I can adjust it out after the sun comes up tomorrow. Thanks for the help. Now all I need to fix is the "STOP LIGHTS" light coming on whenever I step on the brake pedal. I disconnected the wires to the resevoir, and that did not stop the lights. Please help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted October 20, 2007 Share Posted October 20, 2007 You will learn how to drive IT... like feathering the gas after a long idle in traffic... high idle at a cold start... don't bother to kick it down until the temp gauge hits half-way... downshifting on a steepish hill... stuff like that... it isn't sophisticated, you need to learn the quirks and go with what the car wants. Both of my BRATs have completely different driving sets I need to use... the Baja is another story... no intervention or learning curve (except a touchy first), press and goooo! Whoooshhh! Stopping with those ABS brakes... not so hot. +1,000,000.5 My BRAT has a completely different driving style than my hatchback did. Mine takes a few seconds of idleing to a minute to get the tranny fluid around the syncros to get the gears to mesh smoothly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted October 20, 2007 Share Posted October 20, 2007 That wasn't it. I checked, there only the main timing lines. I pulled the #1 plug, and made sure that the "0" lined up at the same time. Then I pulled the distributor, and lined the rotor up with #1 wire. I put the plug back, and adjusted the disty until the engine started. It ran pretty good. Then I set the timing with light, and took it for a quick trip. There is a lot of hesitation, but I think I can adjust it out after the sun comes up tomorrow. Thanks for the help. Now all I need to fix is the "STOP LIGHTS" light coming on whenever I step on the brake pedal. I disconnected the wires to the resevoir, and that did not stop the lights. Please help. I have the timing on my Webered '86 set at 9*, seems to like it there. Some of us with Webers had to install a Fuel Pressure Regulator in the supply line to the carb. I did, set at the 3.5 mark. You can get a FPR for $20.00 at most Parts stores. May or may not help... The "Stop Lamp" indicator on the dash has nothing to do with brake fluid level. It's telling you that a brake light is out, or something is amiss in the wiring for the brake lights. Out of the 5 BRATs I've owned, the '82 is the only one that the dash idicator didn't atleast blink at me when hitting the brakes. It is possible the check relay for the brake lights went bad, but I would insure the wiring and bulbs are all in order first before heading for the relay. The relay is located on the rear wall of the cab, behing the trim panel where that small bump-out is, right above the tunnel area of floor. Pulling all of those plastic trim buttons out for panel removale isn't a fun job..... Atleast I don't think so........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted October 20, 2007 Share Posted October 20, 2007 if you have a hitch wired up, that may be causing the stop light to come on when brakes are pushed. that was the prob on my wagon. just had to re-wire the pig tail and it went away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cd45 Posted October 20, 2007 Author Share Posted October 20, 2007 OK, Brat runs great. It just has a hesitation when you step on the gas. If you push slow and steady, it runs great. If you push the pedal all the way, it lags for about a second. I will get it fixed. I found the relay, and I will try to find a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 20, 2007 Share Posted October 20, 2007 Sounds like the accelerator pump isn't working. But hessitation like that could be a lot of things. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cd45 Posted October 21, 2007 Author Share Posted October 21, 2007 Acceleration pump was replaced when I replaced all the gaskets in the carb. I thinj the timing is off 1 or 2 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 1 or 2 degrees would not cause the hessitation you describe. Sounds like the carb isn't set up right. A leak near the base or throttle shafts can cause hessitation like that, or jetting issues. Perhaps the accelerator pump jet isn't the right size. Check all the jetting, check the float setting, and check for leaks - especially around the base and throttle shafts. I've set up over a dozen Weber's on EA81's and EA82's. Improper timing can cause a lot of things - including deiseling on shutdown (along with idle speed), but a few degrees will not cause hessitation like that. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 Going with what GD said im going to vote that you have a small vacuum leak. Timing being off is not going to cause hessitation like that. I have my timing advanced to around 9 or 10..not really sure what it is since i did it by ear. Im assuming that since you rebuilt your weber that your float is set correctly? Mine was way off when i pulled the top off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cd45 Posted October 21, 2007 Author Share Posted October 21, 2007 I reset the float when I replaced the gaskets. The kit also came with a new valve for the float. I made sure it was right before I put it back together. I checked for a vacuum leak when I got it running. I used carb cleaner around the whole intake system, and could not find any leaks. Thanks for the input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cd45 Posted October 21, 2007 Author Share Posted October 21, 2007 Found part of the problem. The vacuum advance is bad. It will not hold vacuum. I called the local parts houses, and they do not carry the vacuum advance, but they do carry the whole disty for $180 plus a $3 core charge. The EGR is also leaking a little. That is an easy fix, gasket, and a metal plate under the EGR, no more leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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