Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

I smell trouble


Recommended Posts

ok so i finally got around to switching my wheels around. ill be damed if i cant get one off. Im pretty sure its just rusted on but i tried beating it with a hammer and still nothing. also when i was putting on the front wheel i noticed about a inch or less of play left and right when i lifted the wheel in the air

 

Ben

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its a common thing with the rims to rust onto the car..heck after a couple months they will be stuck again...I usually spray with some PB Blaster and use a BFH ( like a sledge) and just tap it off..all it usually takes is 2 or 3 hits.

 

Your movement sounds like a wheel bearing BTW..have you changed them recently? noticed any shaking or wierd tire wear?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its a common thing with the rims to rust onto the car..heck after a couple months they will be stuck again...I usually spray with some PB Blaster and use a BFH ( like a sledge) and just tap it off..all it usually takes is 2 or 3 hits.

 

Your movement sounds like a wheel bearing BTW..have you changed them recently? noticed any shaking or wierd tire wear?

 

its a subaru doesnt it have unuasual tire wear from the factory:grin:

 

then i move the wheel left and right i can see the cv shaft slide in and out of the boot closest to the tranny or maybe the tranny itself. Not sure . This is the side where the cv shaft is clicking.

 

excess movement. Hell yes when i turn sometimes it pops really loud. its wanders. one other thing. Now that i have good tires on i noticed now sharp it turns with the wheels turned in. I think i need to lower the pressure on them. I just filled the tires up until there wasnt a lumpy spot on the bottom.

 

ALLLLSO i noticed im going to be needing brakes soon. anyone got the parts for rear disc conversion. I dont need the rotors just everything else

 

Ben

 

p.s. i am lacking in bfh and pb blaster

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When an axle goes bad it can make funny things happen...OR you might have a loose castle nut..Just a possibility...watch the tire wear..get a new axle..tighten and re-tighten everything..Also have the wheels aligned...you should be good to go..and invest in a BFH..they can be your best friend;) :-p

 

OH..you did check your ball joints and tie rod ends didnt you?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well to make a long story short my wife and i had a fight and i wasnt in any mood to do a thourough inspection. Everything looked ok. I tuged on the ball joints tie rod ends. Nothing lookedl oose. the only thing that moved was the wheel left and right. Probally not going to get a new axel until it breaks unfortunately.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think i need to lower the pressure on them. I just filled the tires up until there wasnt a lumpy spot on the bottom.

 

 

Did you ever notice those numbers on the side of the tire? The one that says PSI after it? Those correspond to the amount of air pressure the tire should have in it, and there are these handy gauges that also have the same numbers on them. Get a gauge, and fill the tires right.

I can't tell you how many times I had customers come in with tires at 50psi+ complaining of a rough ride, or a vibration. Nine times out of ten, filling a tire like that will kill it, even a new tire. Usually they have ply seperation issues.

If you have tire movement that can be measured in inches, you have a real problem and the car should not be on the road. Play in ball joints and wheel bearings is measured in thousandths of inches, usually .003"-.004" MAX.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like your castle nut is dangerously loose :eek:

 

Even if you don't get a new axle, I'd highly recommend checking and tightening it as needed. (it's a 36mm)

 

-Dave

 

yes i know about tire pressure but what does that half to do with there being play in the steering. parking the car is not an option but its ok cuz im heavly insured so if i die my wife is a millionare what is the castle nut is it on the outside of the hub. i do have a torque wrench what should it be torqued to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im not so sure its the castle nut. when i was moving it left and right the only thing i saw moveing was the cv shaft in and out of the transmission the wheel and hub never floped around.up and down was fine just left and right.

 

Ben

 

but then again this is my first subaru so ill check everything over when i get some time tomorrow.

 

Ben

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you pull the hub cap off, the castle nut is the large nut in the center of the wheel. It should have a cotter pin through it.

 

The book says it should be torqued to 140ft/lbs, however, the tighter you can get it, the better :D Personally I lean on the end of a 3' cheater bar and call it good.

 

oh yea, leave the car on the ground when you tighten it.

 

-Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you pull the hub cap off, the castle nut is the large nut in the center of the wheel. It should have a cotter pin through it.

 

The book says it should be torqued to 140ft/lbs, however, the tighter you can get it, the better :D Personally I lean on the end of a 3' cheater bar and call it good.

 

oh yea, leave the car on the ground when you tighten it.

 

-Dave

 

thats what i thought it is. i will check it tomorrow for some reason if it doesnt stop the wobble then what shall i look at.

 

Ben

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes i know about tire pressure but what does that half to do with there being play in the steering. parking the car is not an option but its ok cuz im heavly insured so if i die my wife is a millionare what is the castle nut is it on the outside of the hub. i do have a torque wrench what should it be torqued to.

 

That has got to be the most stupidly arrogant thing I have heard in a good long time.

I'm glad that when you KILL somebody, your wife will have a million to give to the other grieving family.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spend some time with your manual and figure out what is actually wrong with the car, have a mechanic friend look at it, or if all else fails take it to a garage.

If the car is unsafe, it should not be driven, end of story. Breakdowns happen, you still have tomorrow to help sort the issue out.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spend some time with your manual and figure out what is actually wrong with the car, have a mechanic friend look at it, or if all else fails take it to a garage.

If the car is unsafe, it should not be driven, end of story. Breakdowns happen, you still have tomorrow to help sort the issue out.

 

 

first off i still cant get the gd wheel off the car. i tried jackint it up and slamin it on the ground. i put lubricant still nothing. i tried backing into curbs to see if that would bust it loose. i even drove around the parking lot a bit with the lug nuts loosened i am out of ideas on that one. knowing my luck ill rip half of the break drum before i get the wheel off. the castle nut is fine good and tight. i think its a ball joint. let me explain. with the car in the air i can move it left to right. when i look at the suspension the lowest point on the hub thats connected to the wheel. right there theres a joint thats wobbling. i think its a ball joint but i cant be sure. nothing looks ripped or old.

 

and i double checked the tire pressure. i was only about 5 pounds off either way per tire so thats pretty good. handles alot differently with good tires on it now. turns easier lol. any advise on the possible ball joint or the wheel would be apreciated.

 

ben

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jack car up, sit on ground, kick the tire as hard as you can without knocking the car off the jack. Alternate between front and rear of the tire.

If you have a sledgehammer, hit the inside of the TIRE -not the wheel- alternating between the front and rear.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lacking bfh

 

How about a lenght of 4x4? Wear gloves, use it battering ram style, not baseball bat style. Best from under the end of the car, so you are pushing the wheel out / off. Turn wheel 1/3 turn each hit or 2. If it's that stuck, it might be usefull to sand the rust off the center part of the brake drum that sticks throught the rim, just so it will move easier when you finally get it to move.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that DOES sound like a bad balljoint.

 

Download the HTKYSA book. It has a great walkthrough on checking your front suspension and steering for problems, and it is very beginner friendly, without lacking in detail or usefulness.

 

For the record, the rear brake drum is held on by the castle nut, so it won't be coming off unless you have SERIOUS problems removing the wheel :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that DOES sound like a bad balljoint.

 

Download the HTKYSA book. It has a great walkthrough on checking your front suspension and steering for problems, and it is very beginner friendly, without lacking in detail or usefulness.

 

For the record, the rear brake drum is held on by the castle nut, so it won't be coming off unless you have SERIOUS problems removing the wheel :)

 

buy the way my car handles AWSOME i mean the suspension is stull muchy but holy sheesh how much new tires make a difference. along with the right tire pressure thing handles totally different and alot more smooth on the highway. ill check into the balljoint alittle more. it looks like its still fastened on there really good but what are the chances it will come loose. its my only transportation and its hard to take it apart and keep it down

 

Ben

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...