The Dude Abides Posted October 24, 2007 Author Share Posted October 24, 2007 bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted October 25, 2007 Author Share Posted October 25, 2007 safety bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 safety bump is that like "the safety dance" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted October 26, 2007 Author Share Posted October 26, 2007 is that like "the safety dance" :lol: :lol: your so funny mick your so funny and witty i supose your just like a man without a hat incase u didnt know thats the name of the band that sings that song. dork:grin: hey no one answered my ball joint problem Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 If it was my car, (or one I was working on), I would replace a ball-joint that had any visable movement in it, period... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 If your problem is the balljoint - it wont "come loose" it will break - usually at the most inopportune time. Ball joints are a ball in socket joint (think hip or shoulder) - when they are worn out - as it sounds like yours is - the ball slops around in the socket and will eventually break free from the socket. This is VERY bad. Get it replaced ASAP! They can be a pain in the butt to do if things are rusty (sounds like an issue you have considering the wheel thing) but it CAN be done in less than a day. You need to invest in a couple of things for working on your Subie... 1. a BFH of some sort - even a 2lb mini sledge can be very useful. 2. PB Blaster - Very useful stuff for helping loosen rusty, stuck parts. Generously spray into all crevaces around the wheel/hub to loosen a stuck wheel - including around the lugs and around the center hub/wheel mating surface. 3. Anti-seize - used in places such as wheel hubs to prevent wheels from rusting to the hubs...slather generously around the hub center where the wheel meets, and any of the hub surface that the wheel touches - no more stuck wheels. getting back to your ball joints... Get that PB out and spray it into the the cracks and crevaces around the ball joint mounting points ahead of time (ie: a day or two before you plan on changing) actually spraying things down a few times over the course of a couple of days will make the job go that much quicker - gives it time to seep into all the built up crud/rust/etc. Honestly, I would recommend doing both sides - if one is gone, the other probably isnt too far behind, and replacing only one puts more stress on the other, older one causing it to fail quickly anyway. this is not an absolute necessity - just my preference/opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted October 26, 2007 Author Share Posted October 26, 2007 well theres a problem with this. its my daily driver and i live in an apartment so its kida hard to tear it apart 1 and leave it like that or to tear it apart and not have a vehicle to take me to work. although i do take the freeway everyday so me dying isnt the most convenient thing as well. anther questioni have is that since i will most likely take this apart would this be a good opportunity to swap out the cv shaft as well. its clickin on me. or replace the bearings as well though i dont believe theres anything wrong with them. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 yes, it would be a very good time to swap out the axle when you did the balljoint. Otherwise, you'd have to take it apart to the same point again to replace the axle. I'd start soaking that area in PB Blaster/Deep creep NOW, well before you start taking it apart. -Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted October 26, 2007 Author Share Posted October 26, 2007 money just isnt there so ill take it easy and stop takeing the freeway from now on. but makes sence to me just to replace them both at the same time. ill half to see what santaclause gets me for christmas. do you know how much ball joints run or wheres a good place to score them Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted October 26, 2007 Author Share Posted October 26, 2007 what ill probally do is start gathering parts for both sides. do them both and be done with it since its apart what else would you fix. im oging to be needing brakes in a while also . since ill have the front end apart i suppose ill need it alighned afterwards Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted October 26, 2007 Author Share Posted October 26, 2007 wish me luck someone loaned me a 10lb sledge i get that gd wheel off Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 Just don't hit the rim, or you will damage it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted October 26, 2007 Author Share Posted October 26, 2007 Just don't hit the rim, or you will damage it. o i dont care about the rims because i got new ones so i smacked the rim bam came off but now i have a new problem. i bought wagon wheels with the centger caps. and the center caps fit all the wheels but this one. it looks like its not sitting in there deep enough. the plastic ring that is inside the wheel where the center cap sits on. any suggestions. bEn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted October 27, 2007 Author Share Posted October 27, 2007 BUMP alot of posts during the day and mine get lost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 Ben...since Guido is your DD and you NEED him for work ( I totally understand where you are at...been there..many many times) Here is what i would do...start NOW acrewing parts..even if you can only grab a couple dollar gasket..start now..Look for used but good parts cheaper for now ( JY,board members, etc). Then once you have everything invite some friends over ..offer food ... ( I know you said money is an object but even cheap food..hot dogs.. mac and cheese..you have it..they will come) and have a fix the car party...you would be amazed the amount of work that can get done with multiple hands.Have them bring tools etc..They dont all have to be Subaru friends. I have been in your shoes ( actually still am I need a ton of work on my Imp that I cant do by myself) I know 100% how you feel and if I was closer I would be one of those people to come help. I will still donate to the cause somehow. As for ball joints...sometimes you can find a whole good set up cheaper at the JY ( complete Hub assembly ) for cheap that might be an option also thats how I got one new one on the XT6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 definitely start gathering your parts - also start soaking those rusty parts with the penetrating oil of choice NOW. Ball joints are relatively cheap - from $11.50 each - sorry, but I would not go used on them - used axle is one thing, used ball joints - no way. might actually have some "extras" here, need to look to be sure tho. will get back to you on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted October 27, 2007 Author Share Posted October 27, 2007 thats what i usually do is gather parts up and do it all at once. i have tools and people to help me i guess its just finding the time and money for the parts. no point in buying used if i can get the gck axels from amazon and not half to worry about replaceing it again. but ive got lots of irons in the fire on that car. im thinkin im definately going to need front brakes buy at least next summer at max. im not talkin just pads but rotors as well. ive got my new tires on and they are awsome ive never been happy driveing that car. it was always just something i was to be careful in. but the tires on make it ride so much better and handle better. ill start gathering parts thanks for your help everybody:) y dont i have someone around here with a plathera of parts lots of time on his hands. can change out an axel in like 3o minutes or less hummmmmmmmm:grin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted November 3, 2007 Author Share Posted November 3, 2007 bump for no particular reason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 Here are some ways to check for worn parts since I do it everyday for work. Remember, removing a ball joint, tie rod end or a strut will corrupt the alignment sometimes so make sure to get it checked when you're done. Ok, jack the car up by the control arm so the weight of the car is on the control arm and the suspension isn't sagging. Make sure both wheels are off the ground as well. First off, wiggle the wheel side to side while someone (or yourself) looks under it. Look right at the outer tie rod ends and see if there's any play in them. Next off, to check the balljoints, grab the bottom of the tire and lift up while pushing the top of the tire in. If you feel any play, its probably a ball joint and needs to be replaced. These are going to be the two main steering components that will wear. Now bearing movement is a 0 tolerance and you will check this when checking for the ball joint. If you noticed there's movement but the ball joint isn't moving, I'll bet money its the bearing. Also, like said before, check the castle nut, IIRC should be at 140ft-lbs for torque. If all of this checks out and you still have a vibration, get the tires balanced. If that doesn't help then a bad axle can cause vibrations as well. If you can get under the car (while its on the ground) and move the axle up and down, thats a bad day because its not supposed to have vertical movement in it just lateral. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 Buuuump to the aired. I've always known the rule of thumb to be: Play from top to bottom - Bearing Play from side to side - Steering You need to find where the movement stops... Does the track rod move in and out towards the rack when you wiggle the wheel? I assume you are not lifting both wheels off the ground and the steering wheel is turning Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted November 6, 2007 Author Share Posted November 6, 2007 Buuuump to the aired. I've always known the rule of thumb to be: Play from top to bottom - Bearing Play from side to side - Steering You need to find where the movement stops... Does the track rod move in and out towards the rack when you wiggle the wheel? I assume you are not lifting both wheels off the ground and the steering wheel is turning Steve you would assume correctly just one wheel at a time. the other one was fine no movement up down or side to side but the drivers side had the side to side movement. lifted it up and saw what i believe to be the lower ball joint on the hub moving around. the whole frontend needs to be checked out i hear alot of poping and slop when i drive. dont always have alot of time to do this and yes i know it is very important. i just keep off the highway for now until i get the money to replace many needed parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 you would assume correctly just one wheel at a time. the other one was fine no movement up down or side to side but the drivers side had the side to side movement. lifted it up and saw what i believe to be the lower ball joint on the hub moving around. the whole frontend needs to be checked out i hear alot of poping and slop when i drive. dont always have alot of time to do this and yes i know it is very important. i just keep off the highway for now until i get the money to replace many needed parts. These are the parts I recently replaced on my Brat..... Not cheap but good quality... http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BA&PartNumber=1013490&Description=Ball+Joint+-+Front+Suspension http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BA&PartNumber=1013489&Description=Tie+Rod+End I prefer NAPA to Autozone because I've had several bad experiences at AZ. I once bought a driveshaft for a Honda CRX, had the car up on jackstands in my apartment complex carpark --- and the damn thing would not fit in the transmission! poor machining. I ended up having to have the car towed to the dealer because I was expecting it done in a night and the next day I was told to move it by the apartment managers... :mad: Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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