lordnorth Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 Problem with my 5 speed 2000 OB Wagon. Discovered today that after driving along above 3000 RPM, the engine doesn't return to idle speed. When I push in the clutch it only drops to about 2500-2700 RPM's and stays there. Same thing if I am going in 1st or 2nd gear and let off of the gas it keeps running along at the fast idle. When I push in the clutch it keeps running at the high idle, but when I shift into neutral it immediately returns to regular idle. As long as I don't shift into neutral it stays at the high idle, but as soon as I put it into neutral it drops off. Shifting through neutral on the way to the next gear is not enough to 'disengage' the fast idle. Along with that, I said that it drops to "regular idle", except that regular idle today is about 1100 RPM's rather than the 700 or so that it should be. No check engine light is on. It almost feels like it is running at cold idle, but just gets stuck there. Any suggestions? I'm pretty sure it isn't a stuck throttle cable, but other than that I have no idea. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzam Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 Someone else may have a better diagnosis but I have a similar issue with an automatic and a new coolant temperature sensor solve my problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 + 1 on the coolant temps sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 Probably the CTS - the gear changes are because the ECU will kick up the idle speed when the car is moving vs. when it thinks it's coasting or stopped. It helps with clutch wear to keep the idle higher durring gear changes. This is common on fuel injection systems. Pay more attention to the difference in hot idle (neutral, car parked) as that is a better indicator. The ECU will eventually throw a code if the CTS gets very bad, but it's difficult for the engine to "know" that the CTS is bad because that's it's only clue for engine temp, and it could just be REALLY cold outside as far as it knows. It will err. on the side of not thowing a code so as to not cause uneccesary concern on the part of the driver A check with the dealer diagnostic computer would probably reveal the problem immediately as they are much more accurate about such anomolous readings. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordnorth Posted October 22, 2007 Author Share Posted October 22, 2007 Guys, Thanks for the input. Sounds like the CTS is the way to go. Does anyone know if there is any kind of recall or service bulletin on this part? Seems like it should be some kind of documented safety issue since it causes the engine to sort of "run away" when you are driving. Please let me know if you have heard anything on that. Thanks! Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordnorth Posted December 17, 2007 Author Share Posted December 17, 2007 Installed new Coolant Temperature Sensor and the problem remains. I recently installed a new Cat and replaced both the front and rear sensors. Check engine light goes on and off randomly. When it is on I get code P0420 - Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1 and code P0122 - Throttle Position Sensor/Pedal Position Sensor A Low Input. But again it comes and goes. New TPS is somewhere in the range of $150 at AutoZone, so I don't want to throw one of those at it if I don't have to. Could one thing be causing both codes in a cascade effect, or do I probably have two seperate problems? Thanks! Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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