2.5GL Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 I found the thread on EJ swaps by numbchux... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69741 That explains alot about what to do, so I am looking for ideas/insight to doing the lift at the same time and for input as to what lift to use, how much lift, how much tire, what should I look out for, add, remove as I go to make this a "one shot" deal. I want to round up all the parts and with three guys, get it done in two days, 'er 48 hours non-stop if that's what it takes. Here's the deal... 1984 Hatch - EA81, 4sp, D/R 267,000 miles Getting.... 1. ENGINE: EJ22 or EJ25: Haven't yet decided which one, a co-worker says EJ20/22T. 2. TRANSMISSION: EA82 5 speed dual range: requires custom drive line, right? Will it take the power of a 2.5? 3. WHEELS: 15" Pugeot, Have 4, looking for 1 more... 4. TIRES: LT235/75R/15C BFGoodrich Mud Terrain T/A KM, A good tire from what I know, any other thoughts? I was hoping for something narrower. 5. LIFT: I was thinking 4", from what I have read the tires I've spec'd would fit, but I am open to all opinions in this matter... 6. ADAPTER PLATE: Who has 'em? And for how much? (SJR, and.....) 7. STEERING LINKAGE: What exactly are people doing to rectify this? 8. BRAKE LINES: Obviously need to be longer, anybody find easy-to-bolt-on parts? 9. SHIFTER LINKAGE: Again, like the steering, what's the fix for this? 10. HOSES: This is going to be fun, how many trips to the parts store will this take? Anybody got a part number laying around? 11. CABLES: Speedometer, clutch, hillholder, throttle?,?,?,?... 12. anything else I should know about???? Somebody out there has done this before, and I hope to tap into that knowledge just a bit if I could, it would save me time I don't really have to do this in the first place. BTW: my wife is gonna kill me, she thinks that I'd never do this to my beloved car of 14 years and 120,000 miles!!! (obviously not the daily driver) And I'll be gone, away from the kids for probably more than one weekend. Any and all facts, thoughts, opinions invited, I want no surprises when I do this. Thanks, Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 1. either engine will work. a phase I, OBD I EJ22e would be the simplest, and probably cheapest (you could get an entire donor car, so you know the condition of the engine before messing with it.....for less than a grand, today. give it some time, 2-300). but a 2.5 would be nice too. beware the DOHC version......head gasket issues. I would not go turbo. extra complexity/sacrificed torque curve = lame for a lifted rig. 2. I know nothing about a 5MT DR swap into an EA81. but I know there are lots of threads about it. probably in the USRM as well. yes, it'll hold the power, as long as you're not wailing on it (WOT clutch dumps, RWD drifting, etc. etc......be smart, some people can kill WRX trannies with stock power) 3. I don't have any pugs.....sorry. but if you need some 13" steelies. I've got a couple dozen...... 4. good choice. the genuine BFG's are a little on the spendy side. but nice tires. I'd also call that the limit of the largest tire to easily run on <6" lift. those calculate to 28.8" tall. 5. you're options are custom, ozified, or SJR. EA81s have a tougher suspension design, but I still firmly believe that both companies make high quality kits (blocks won't collapse or bend). But the BYB one sacrifices some strength in design to accommodate installation ease and cost, while the SJR one is a bit more spendy, but a much tougher design. 6. SJR, and rguyver: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77490 I should edit the write-up 7. the linkage needs to be lengthened. AFAIK it's not too difficult. the BYB kit will come with one pre-lengthened. SJR might be able to do it for you, but it's not included. 8. again, something the BYB kit will come with, but you'll have to source elsewhere otherwise. I'm 95% sure (it's been a year since I helped install my buddies EA81 kit), that the only one that needs lengthening is the line that goes from the body to the rear trailing arms. you might be able to just make a short extension from hardlines..... 9. you'll have to be creative about the linkage. it's real close to reaching, but not quite. although if you're swapping to an EA82 5MT, it might work fine (did on both my EA82s.....but the EA81 kits I've worked with both required some bending) 10. again, something I don't remember from the EA81 kits. I don't think we had to mess with them.....with my EA82 kits, I just had to shorten the lower one. 11. should all reach, most of them run horizontally, so the overall length difference is pretty small. you may have to re-route the speedo cable under the pitch stopper....but other than that. 12. the pitch stopper. should be lengthened. again, pretty sure the BYB kit comes with a longer one. pretty much anybody who owns a welder could do it. I've run a couple cars without one without any noticeable negative effects. the answers to almost all of your questions are already posted. most of them either in the offroad FAQ, or in the USRM. I should've just told you to use the search function.....but I'm bored and can't sleep..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 Here is what I have learned from my EJ18 BRAT project. The OBD1 system is the easiest to retro-fit into the 80's cars. You need to get a good harness diagram and just start tracing. I am using the 4sp D/R tranny w/no problems. Granted this is a 110 HP motor so the extra 30 might cause problems. in terms of your lift blocks and extensions, it really depends on your skill level. I have a welder and I was unemployed at the time so I did it myself. The lift design is pretty simple to do. If you make your own, remember that the rear doesn't need to be as tall as the front. So you can get away with 4 inch front blocks and 3 inch rears. Since you are doing a lift and you want power steering. Get a ea82 crossmember w/power steering and use that instead of your stock 81's. The lift blocks will have to serve as adapters for the crossmember. The mounting points will be off-set b/c the EA81 is narrower than the EA82. I have alittle over 2k on my swap and no problems. For brake lines, I got some longer hard lines and some adapters from NAPA. I didn’t have to change the E-brake, throttle or clutch cables. The radiator was interesting. I initially wanted to get a pre-bent one the looked right, but I had a lot of trouble finding one. I ended up getting cutting the hose that I got and using some old exhaust tubing to join them. Basically, I used the rubber hoses to get the bends that I needed and the metal tubing to connect the two. Your stock EA81 radiator should be fine for cooling the system. I have it set up w/one electric fan on the driver’s side that is on all of the time. I have had it idle for 40 mins or so w/o overheating. Another thing about the radiator is that the EA81 hoses are smaller in diameter than the EJ hoses. I took an old EA81 hose and used it as a spacer for the larger hose. It seems to work for me, but others have had trouble getting a good seal. Shoot me a PM if you need further help. BW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 12. anything else I should know about???? I want no surprises when I do this. Thanks, Lewis will need a redrilled flywheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted October 23, 2007 Author Share Posted October 23, 2007 Thanks for the good advice, I am still searching this forum as well as others that I can find. The more info I have now means less down time later (I hope) when putting it all togehter. The good news is that I have doaner cars out the wahzoo right now, I just have to get the boss to let me at one of 'em to get all the wiring and electronics. I was already leaning towards a 90-94 2.2 for the ease of set-up. I figure I am nearly doubling the power output, I shouldn't need a 2.5... but, if it fits and I have (or can get) one, will it work with the early 2.2 ECU w/o problems or modiications? Thanks again, Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 another option is to run a ford distributer and a carberator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 Thanks for the good advice, I am still searching this forum as well as others that I can find. The more info I have now means less down time later (I hope) when putting it all togehter. The good news is that I have doaner cars out the wahzoo right now, I just have to get the boss to let me at one of 'em to get all the wiring and electronics. I was already leaning towards a 90-94 2.2 for the ease of set-up. I figure I am nearly doubling the power output, I shouldn't need a 2.5... but, if it fits and I have (or can get) one, will it work with the early 2.2 ECU w/o problems or modiications? Thanks again, Lewis RS25.com will give you more info on mix n matching ECU to engines. I think the key is to look at the ECU pinouts and determine if it will work. It's a good idea to get the info and set up a game plan. kick it around here and then move forward. take pictures while you go and most of all have fun. BW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jibs Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 The 5 speed D/R should fit no problem. You will need the conversion kit from Bratsrus1 but its WELL worth the money. A bracket needs to be made and mounted to the underbody for the 2 piece driveline, or get a custom 1 piece made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newsoobdude Posted October 24, 2007 Share Posted October 24, 2007 The 5 speed D/R should fit no problem. You will need the conversion kit from Bratsrus1 but its WELL worth the money. A bracket needs to be made and mounted to the underbody for the 2 piece driveline, or get a custom 1 piece made. Yeah, Jerry has done this and I have contacted him about doing it to my Brat. One VERY nice thing about his kit is he will modify the linkages for your lift. When I asked him about the parts and goodies he asked if I will be stock or lifted and how high if lifted . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted October 24, 2007 Author Share Posted October 24, 2007 Yeah, Jerry has done this and I have contacted him about doing it to my Brat. One VERY nice thing about his kit is he will modify the linkages for your lift. When I asked him about the parts and goodies he asked if I will be stock or lifted and how high if lifted . Already figured I would go with a one peice driveline, but I am very interested as to what could be done to the linkages and???..... Jerry? would that be bratsrus1? Thanks, and keep the ideas coming guys!!! Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted October 24, 2007 Author Share Posted October 24, 2007 another option is to run a ford distributer and a carberator Kinda leanin' towards "normal" for that engine, and future upgrades/tune-ability. Besides I am one of those people that don't "get" carburators.... Just ask my co-workers, I rant every time I have to "fix" one and want to burn down the car its on. I can make 'em work, and work right, but don't like it when I have to.:cool: Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newsoobdude Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 Already figured I would go with a one peice driveline, but I am very interested as to what could be done to the linkages and???..... Jerry? would that be bratsrus1? Thanks, and keep the ideas coming guys!!! Lewis Yep, Jerry would be bratus1. Very nice guy and very informative. Hit him up with a pm and you'll be in great shape for the 5spd swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pooparu Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 I2. TRANSMISSION: EA82 5 speed dual range: requires custom drive line, right? Will it take the power of a 2.5? I'm doing the same swap in my 1982 hatch. I went with an EJ22 motor and the 5 speed D/R 4WD Transmission. I got jerry's kit and it works great. All of the cables and hill holder stuff went back into place on the 5 speed just the same as the 4 speed. I had a nice one piece drive line made at a shop here in Portland for like $100 bucks. The drive line actually needs to be lengthened by I think it was 4" - 5". I also used M. Rose adaptor plate for the motor. I'm still waiting on the wiring harness to be shipped back to me then I'm good to go. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted October 28, 2007 Author Share Posted October 28, 2007 I had a nice one piece drive line made at a shop here in Portland for like $100 bucks. The drive line actually needs to be lengthened by I think it was 4" - 5". Good luck! What shop made it for you? Where are they? Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pooparu Posted October 29, 2007 Share Posted October 29, 2007 What shop made it for you? Where are they? Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pooparu Posted October 29, 2007 Share Posted October 29, 2007 If you want you can stop by and take a look at my swap. It might help you out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted October 30, 2007 Author Share Posted October 30, 2007 I just might do that, PM me with contact info and location... Are you available middays, say 12 to 1 or so? Ultimately, it depends on where you are, let me know... Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted November 2, 2007 Author Share Posted November 2, 2007 Well, I found out this week that I need these lug nuts to run the pugs on the hatch... anybody have clue where to get them short of importing them from France? (aluminum cone to fit against wheel with free-spining steel threads and hex head) OR.... Should I just back up a bit, sell the pugs, and drill the hubs for a toyota 6-lug? Besides, I still need the "spare" 15" wheel too. Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newsoobdude Posted November 2, 2007 Share Posted November 2, 2007 Well, I found out this week that I need these lug nuts to run the pugs on the hatch... anybody have clue where to get them short of importing them from France?Should I just back up a bit, sell the pugs, and drill the hubs for a toyota 6-lug? Besides, I still need the "spare" 15" wheel too. Lewis Well, yes Pug lugs are hard to find but there are alternatives. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59064 is one good cheap idea that I'll be doing with the Brat. 6 Lug is up to you, it's your choice. Better wheel options and all though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pooparu Posted November 2, 2007 Share Posted November 2, 2007 Well, I found out this week that I need these lug nuts to run the pugs on the hatch... anybody have clue where to get them short of importing them from France? (aluminum cone to fit against wheel with free-spining steel threads and hex head) OR.... Should I just back up a bit, sell the pugs, and drill the hubs for a toyota 6-lug? Besides, I still need the "spare" 15" wheel too. Lewis Go to Les Schwab. They have great replacement lug nuts that'll work. That's what I did. ($20.00 for a set) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted November 3, 2007 Author Share Posted November 3, 2007 Go to Les Schwab. They have great replacement lug nuts that'll work. That's what I did. ($20.00 for a set) Was just there for lunch today and no luck... I took the pic in and he said he'd call his supplier on monday and let me know. I am also going to call a few junk yards around the country to see if they have them. A search has shown some Pugeots and wheels in stock, perhaps they will still have lug nuts... Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 this link was posted already....but I'm posting it again, as there's no reason to look further http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59064 ball seats, very cheap, and allow you to safely use stock lug nuts on pug wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted November 5, 2007 Author Share Posted November 5, 2007 I figured that I would try local stuff first, however, to no avail... I guess I'll be ordering some soon... Thanks again Mr. Chux! Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted April 8, 2008 Author Share Posted April 8, 2008 The ball seat adapters have been found (Discount Import Auto, Milwaukie), and better lug nuts to go with em'(Schwab). Wheels fixed/straightened (Factory Wheel Outlet, Clackamas). XT-6 flywheel is off to the machine shop to get re-drilled. Engine and harness from a 91 sedan next month. Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pooparu Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 The ball seat adapters have been found (Discount Import Auto, Milwaukie), and better lug nuts to go with em'(Schwab).Wheels fixed/straightened (Factory Wheel Outlet, Clackamas). XT-6 flywheel is off to the machine shop to get re-drilled. Engine and harness from a 91 sedan next month. Lewis I finally got mine running if you want to stop by and see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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