'92 subie loyale has a cold & cool start problem

[alaska99]

1.) new timing belts; new temp. coolant sensor; new coil; new ignition switch(but, not key lock cylinder); tune-up(plugs-NGK, cap, rotor, wires); new valve cover gaskets; new starters(2); new alternator. 2.) when cold-engine has to turn over 10plus times; then I pat the accelerator & still no start. I slowly turn the key to start, engine catchs & starts. 3.) runs great once it is warm; starts great once it is warm. if it cools down, after it is warm, it starts slowly (but not like it does when cold). 4.) my mechanic put fuel pressure gauge on fuel rail, near the fuel pressure regulator & told me that pressure was within OEM range. 5.) it has 146,000 miles; bought it with 15,000 miles; has always run great; now I am lost! is it the fuel system or the electrical system? where do I go from here? my mechanic seems lost! he just does not work on older subies. he seems very frustrated(i think he is a good mechanic). 6.) i drove it down to North Carolina from Alaska in 2001, without any problems. i just can't find a mechanic who knows how to work on older subies!

PS: I HAVE A SIDEWINDER (By DEI) AUTO-ALARM SYSTEM WITH AUTOSTART.

 

any help is very, very appreciated!

 

alaska99

[Bucky92]

Just curious...when you are cranking it over...when cool or cold...is it cranking slowly or at the same speed as when warm? You mentioned you put a new coolant temp sensor in it... have you tried resetting the ECU?

Just trying to get some ideas and some really simple fixes first.

[GeneralDisorder]

There are two temp sensors - one is for the guage, and the other is for the computer. Sounds like you need to check the computer's temp sensor.

 

I have no idea why your mechanic would be lost. There is nothing special about the early Subaru throttle body injection system as compared to other brands from this vintage. Chevy TBI is similar.

 

GD

[TomRhere]

There are two temp sensors - one is for the guage, and the other is for the computer. Sounds like you need to check the computer's temp sensor.

 

GD

 

And it's not always just the sensor. The connector and/or it's wiring can get corroded and that leads to false reading to the ECU.

[Bill90Loyale]

GD, Bucky and Tom are all right on. As long as we're on "not too difficult" stuff, try douching out the throttle body with carb cleaner (remove the elephant trunk from the top for access). I'm also wondering if your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) might be involved in this. I've never removed mine for cleaning, but I'd start with the throttle body itself. A second thought is vacuum leak making cold starts difficult. Remove the trunk at the air cleaner end to access the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) and douch the delicate sensor with carb cleaner or MAF cleaner. This is still sounding like a coolant temp sensor (CTS) issue to me, but these other factors might be in play. One more thing: when you replaced the plug wires, I assume that included a new high tension lead from coil to distributor.

[alaska99]

Just curious...when you are cranking it over...when cool or cold...is it cranking slowly or at the same speed as when warm? You mentioned you put a new coolant temp sensor in it... have you tried resetting the ECU?

Just trying to get some ideas and some really simple fixes first.

 

 

it cranks fast when cold & slow when warm; how do you reset the ECU? Now I smell gas, but it still will not start; now I must be careful when it(the engine) is warm or it will crank as if it is cold and may not start.

 

alaska99

[alaska99]

GD, Bucky and Tom are all right on. As long as we're on "not too difficult" stuff, try douching out the throttle body with carb cleaner (remove the elephant trunk from the top for access). I'm also wondering if your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) might be involved in this. I've never removed mine for cleaning, but I'd start with the throttle body itself. A second thought is vacuum leak making cold starts difficult. Remove the trunk at the air cleaner end to access the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) and douch the delicate sensor with carb cleaner or MAF cleaner. This is still sounding like a coolant temp sensor (CTS) issue to me, but these other factors might be in play. One more thing: when you replaced the plug wires, I assume that included a new high tension lead from coil to distributor.

 

So, you think the new CTS is bad? My mechanic replaced the dist.cap, wires, rotor; I replaced the original coil. I assumed he used a high tension lead. I will need to ask him.

 

Thanks,

alaska99

[Durania]

...try douching out the throttle body with carb cleaner .

 

Million points for using the douching technique with a carb cleaner.