To pull or not to pull?

[Chris W.]

Hey all

I have about 45k on my timing belts (93 Loyal EA82 105K), I

also have a profound oil leak coming from the front of the engine.

At first I thought the leak was coming from the cam covers, so

I replaced the gaskets (PIA!) as well as the PCV valve (I read here that a bad PCV was the leading cause of leaks). Replacing

the cam cover gaskets took care of 1/4 of the leaking. I am pretty

sure the main leak is comming from the drivers side cam seal

behind the timing belt sprocket. So my question is...which is

easier, change the cam seals and timing belts with the engine in

the car, or should I pull the engine to get to all this stuff. When I

replaced the cam cover gaskets, work space was way tight, which

leads me to believe that pulling the engine might be tha way to go? Any and all advice is much appreciated:D

 

Cheers,

Chris

[EmmCeeBee]

You're in luck!!! Since it's about time to change the T-belts, you can kill four birds with one stone: T-belts, cam shaft seals, front crankshaft seal, and oil pump seal. You can even make it five birds with the water pump, since it's usually recommended at about 100k miles.

 

A good possibility for the oil leak is the oil pump seal. If you're gonna get into the timing belts, there's no excuse to skip this. You can get an oil pump seal kit (O-ring, Mickey-mouse gasket, and shaft seal) for about $20.

 

You can do all this without pulling the engine. It'll be a bit tight, but the most you'll suffer is skinned knuckles and some extra cuss words. Put a piece of cardboard over the inside surface of the radiator, otherwise you'll end up dinging the fins and cutting your hands. Or better yet, pull the radiator (only 2 bolts) to give yourself twice the clearance.

 

Of course, it's a lot easier to do all this if the engine is out, but pulling the engine itself is a ton of work. Only really necessary if you want to put in a new rear crankshaft seal or clutch, or do head work.

 

-- Mark

[Flowmastered87GL]

Just yank the radiator. I highly recommend changing the water pump seals, I have experienced lots of water pump leaks in my car. I am just going to break down and buy another new pump even though mine is only 5 years old. Then again I guess its not made for service above redline (7000 RPM or so)

 

The reason that chaning the timing COVER gaskets only helped a little:

 

For the oil to leak out of there it has to get IN there somehow... therefore the oil pump crank or cams are leaking so they need to be changed. The timing belts are old enough to change.

 

Other items you may want to change also: The o ring that goes in the side of the water pump where the tube to the radiator exits as well as the 90 degree bent hose that goes rearward to the heater hoses.

[myossfeece]

the time it takes to pull the radiator, it would save you that time not having to work on it.

 

it ca be pulled with the clutch fan still on, if the electric fan is off already.

 

i highly recomment taking the clutch fan out first, then radiator.

 

might as well over haul the motor, pull it out and do the front seals, then the rear seal and clutch/front trans seal.

 

it would make a good time to de-gunk, put all new hoses on when going back in.

 

its not hard t opull a motor, it can be done with a come-along tied up to a rafter.

 

pulling it out now, will afford you the options of servicing other stuff as well

 

i like to pull a motor if i'm getting into seals and timing belts

 

timing belt alone i would do with motor in-car and with the radiator out.

[Chris W.]

Thanks Guys!

Looks like I will go with the "remove the radiator, keep the engine

in the bay" method. I can always pull the engine if it gets to be

too much of a pain.

 

Ceers,

Chris

[JWX]

on my 87 GL-10 I've done the timing belts with the rad in place